Will not start when warm.
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New User
Joined: Nov 2008
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Will not start when warm.
Looking at a '95 all wheel drive, $600. The owner says that the van will not restart after a drive, wait about 2 hours and the van will start right up.
Any ideas? Would like to buy this van. Really clean.
Any ideas? Would like to buy this van. Really clean.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
welcome 93 ghost
lots of potential problems and little info to analyze.
just guesses at this point
need more testing
please pull the codes per sticky thread at top of 1st page of threads
what engine, 4.0L?
1. failed coil pack, heat intermittent
2. failed Ignition Control Module, heat int.
3. failed Crank Position Sensor, "
4. failed ECT
5. failing PCM/ECU
lots of potential problems and little info to analyze.
just guesses at this point
need more testing
please pull the codes per sticky thread at top of 1st page of threads
what engine, 4.0L?
1. failed coil pack, heat intermittent
2. failed Ignition Control Module, heat int.
3. failed Crank Position Sensor, "
4. failed ECT
5. failing PCM/ECU
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
These symptoms have broken Engine Temperature Sensor written ALL over. I had the same problem a few years back, put a new one in and she starts up every time no matter what the engine temperature is.
Heres the part from RockAuto...
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=40627
Heres the part from RockAuto...
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=40627
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 830
Likes: 0
From: Kitchener,Ontario,Canada
ECT sensor
Start the engine & take a test drive, warm it up & then allow to idle, watch the exhaust & feel the engine response. If any hint of black smoke & bogged down throttle response, likely the engine is running rich when hot. If so:
Can be bad Engine Coolant Temp or Air Charge Temp sensors
Bad front Oxygen sensor
Bad Fuel Pressure Regulator or plugged vacuum line.
These are all relatively cheap & can be tested with a Multimeter except the Fuel regulator which is not a major expense either.
This engine is run by the OBD2 diagnostic/management system so if you can borrow a scantool you can monitor all the sensors & also check the I/M systems monitor. OBD2 is a very good system for detecting engine /sensor problems if you can do the detective work to follow up on the computer codes.
My first guess would be faulty ECT sensor seconded by stuck rich front O2 sensor, both can cause the described symptoms.
Can be bad Engine Coolant Temp or Air Charge Temp sensors
Bad front Oxygen sensor
Bad Fuel Pressure Regulator or plugged vacuum line.
These are all relatively cheap & can be tested with a Multimeter except the Fuel regulator which is not a major expense either.
This engine is run by the OBD2 diagnostic/management system so if you can borrow a scantool you can monitor all the sensors & also check the I/M systems monitor. OBD2 is a very good system for detecting engine /sensor problems if you can do the detective work to follow up on the computer codes.
My first guess would be faulty ECT sensor seconded by stuck rich front O2 sensor, both can cause the described symptoms.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,416
Likes: 1
From: Mitchell, SD
I am going to go against the grain and say Crank/Cam position sensor is going out on it. But like what has been said, a quick hook up to a OBD-II reader will give you the low down. Depending on the condition of other stuff (engine and tranny appear to be in good condition with the body), I would jump on that deal. 
Trending Topics
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
most auto parts stores will loan an OBDII code reader for the newer rigs for free or will read the codes for free. call ahead.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=28
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=28
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)
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Just got home. Damn, the Bears and Packers are playing Sunday night football.
Ok here is what I found. The body is in great shape, no rust that I can see, rear hatch has cracks and the struts were hanging loose. No big deal.
However when I fired up the engine, which it did, like right now, massive amounts of white smoke came shooting out the tail pipe. The smell of coolent was almost overwhelming, according to my wife. Engine sounded good. a little bit fast for my taste though.
Now we know why the engine took so long to restart- HYDRO LOCK.
I passed this van.
Thanks for all the input.
Ok here is what I found. The body is in great shape, no rust that I can see, rear hatch has cracks and the struts were hanging loose. No big deal.
However when I fired up the engine, which it did, like right now, massive amounts of white smoke came shooting out the tail pipe. The smell of coolent was almost overwhelming, according to my wife. Engine sounded good. a little bit fast for my taste though.
Now we know why the engine took so long to restart- HYDRO LOCK.
I passed this van.
Thanks for all the input.
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Just got home from looking at the 96. Missed most of the Bears And Packer game.
This is what I found. Good body, no rust from what I see. The rear hatch had cracks and the struts were hanging from the body, now big deal. Tires were new with receipts in the glove box. Brand new oil. Tranny fluid bright red, with no smells. OK so god so far.
Engine fired right up within 1 1/2 seconds. Revs were a little fast for me. Out of tail pipe, mountains of white smoke. Coolent smell very strong. Now we know why the van would not restart for awhile.
HYDRO LOCK
I passed on this van
This is what I found. Good body, no rust from what I see. The rear hatch had cracks and the struts were hanging from the body, now big deal. Tires were new with receipts in the glove box. Brand new oil. Tranny fluid bright red, with no smells. OK so god so far.
Engine fired right up within 1 1/2 seconds. Revs were a little fast for me. Out of tail pipe, mountains of white smoke. Coolent smell very strong. Now we know why the van would not restart for awhile.
HYDRO LOCK
I passed on this van
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
the most common engine damaging failure in the Ford 4.0L.
can be repaired by DIYer
if only leaking head gasket and cyl/piston/bearings are not yet damaged, $200 and 2 days work
if cracked head, $1000, two remanufactured heads and 3 days work
if bearings gone with crank damage or cyl wall damage, looking at short block, $1500 4 days work
can be repaired by DIYer
if only leaking head gasket and cyl/piston/bearings are not yet damaged, $200 and 2 days work
if cracked head, $1000, two remanufactured heads and 3 days work
if bearings gone with crank damage or cyl wall damage, looking at short block, $1500 4 days work
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