Ok so I was driving the trusty (rusty) van and all of sudden it died on me and I had to pull into the parking lot. This happened to last friday.

The van will not start...but the radio and windows do work.

I replaced the coil and ignition module and it will still not start.

Also, there is no spark.

What do you think the problem is fellas?

 

Just a shot in the dark here, but I have two ideas.

1) Check your fuses. There is a fuse for the engine computer, and it does control spark delivery to some extent.

2) Check your spark plug wires. Are they cracked/frayed? Do they have the amount of electrical resistance they are supposed to have?

Good luck!

 

What year and engine size? The older 3.0L Aerostars are notorious for having bad TFI modules.

 

1993, 3.0 litre v6, only 137,000 miles.

 

Thanks for the tips - I will check them out ASAP.

 

Can you tell me where the TFI module is located?

 

Also, what does the fuse for the engine computer look like? And where is it located?

 

Hmm, you have the same year and engine I have, except I'm about to get to 148,000 miles, and no rust.

The fuse for the engine computer is in the fuse block under the driver side dash, on the wall right by the door. I have a diagram for the fuse locations from AllData, but no scanner. If you need it, I'll try to get it scanned tomorrow.

You say you replaced the TFI module. I know that Fords can be extremely picky regarding replacement parts. Most auto stores stock generic ones, and they are defective more often than not, even brand new. (You'd be surprised.)

You might want to pick up a genuine Motorcraft replacement from a local Ford dealer. Pricey, but worth it in my opinion.

Some Advance/Discount Auto Parts stores in my area advertise free ignition module testing. Check around in your area to see if any auto parts stores offer the same testing. It could save you some tail chasing.

Good luck!

 

The Ignition Module for '93 3.0L are on the fender, passenger side. It has plenty of cooling so it is not prone to failure like the older models. Still, it's a good idea to have it tested out, just to eliminate the possibility.

Another quick check you should do is to open up the distributor and make sure the rotor is turning while the engine is being cranked. There is a gear down in the bottom of the distributor that might be broken.

Those are the quick checks you can do before you start changing plugs and wires, even though that might be a good idea if you haven't done so lately.

Another possible culprit is the coil itself, near the distributor. You might want to have it checked out too.

That's about all I know about the ignition system on my '93 3.0L. If you still don't have spark, then someone else might have a suggestion. The fuse for the engine computer is fuse number 17 (10 Amps). The fuse number is printed on the cover itself, so you shouldn't have any trouble.

 

dawid311,

Since you've already replaced the coil and the ignition module (also known as the TFI module), the next thing to check is the distributor cap, rotor, plugs and plug wires. Just had the same problem with my 92 3.0L XLT and ended up replacing rotor, dist. cap, wires and plugs. My fault for failing to maintain properly...plugs and wires were way overdue for replacement, rotor tip was burnt and coil wire was arcing inside. Now starts fine with plenty of spark at plugs.

Ron

 

I agree. the rotor and cap are maintenance items, and should be replaced from time to time. To check to see if the problem is in the ignition control circuits, pull the primar ignition wire from the distributor cap, and useing a good insulator, hold it about 1/2" away from a good engine ground. Crank the engine. If it give good well defined sparks, then the problem is in the cap, rotor, wires, and possibly multiple fouled plugs. If there is not spark at the primary wire then let us know. I can help you track it down further.

 

thanks for all the help - there is no spark at the primary wire.

 

Ok, you can take the module (located on the passenger side fender, or the radiator support) to Autozone, and tell them you want it tested. If it passes the tests, then let us know. Before installing a new one, or reinstalling your old one, put some dielectric boot grease, and apply it to the back of the module. This ensures proper heat transfer.
If it passes the test, the coil will need to be tested, and the PIP signal will need to be tested. I will need to get home to look up the specs and procedures on that.

 

Hi guys, I had a problem like yours with my 1991 4.0 and after many hours searching and replacing verious parts of the ingnition system, I found some burnt out wire connections on the big block connectors just above the engine and under the fire wall. I cleaned up the connections and sprayed with WD40 and heypresto it started and has run fine ever since, have a look at your connections you never know.

 

Good idea. I tend to be a bit systematic in my diagnosis. As I said, I will get back with you this evening on the procedures and specs to test the coil, and to check to see if there is a PIP signal. In the event that the PIP signal is lacking, the pickup coil can be replaced, but it is a bit difficult to do, and is time consuming. You need to follow correct procedure, so as to make sure the distributor gets reinstalled correctly. If it comes to that, I will let you know what to do. Check the connections in the meantime. Try wiggling them, and see if it starts. Also, wiggle the connection at the module, and see if it starts.