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I have had an oil leak for a while, nothing serious, just irritating. Yesterday was the day all the stars aligned. I had parts and o-rings from diesel-site, so
I tugged the turbo. I got that out and replaced the doughnuts on the Y pipe, replaced the o-rings in the ebpv and solenoid. Don't have enough $ to do the up pipes.
Now the problem surfaces, Checked the in and out on the comp. wheel ...
nothing, checked the up and down..... I can feel movement up and down.
It doesn't scrape the housing unless I put pressure on while spinning it. I
know I need to fix it but don't have much $ as stated above. I will research
rebuild kits that you folks have talked about on this site in the meantime.
Thank you for all the posts that were done on all the stuff that I did already.
I like to do preventative maint. fix stuff before it fails. But I need my truck for work (self employed carpenter) and it looks like I'll be tugging the turbo again
anyway.
Thanks in advance Jeff
Almost forgot 02 F-250 153,000 stock
IMHO, you don't have a lot of time if you can make it touch. You can get a rebuild kit for ~$100. The sooner you get it done, the better. If you let it go too long, you'll need more than just a rebuild kit. Like a housing, wheel, or maybe the whole thing.
What Izzy said. Last thing you want is a turbo to come apart. That could be a real expensive repair. 100 bucks is cheap when compared to the alternative.
Thanks guys, a couple of Q's though. First what the heck is IMHO,
Second, I just did the o-rings so should I be doing them again?
Clay you will be hearing from me real soon, I realize the longer I wait the better chance of blowing it up. A lot cheaper than I thought it would be, thanks. Just everyday tools i assume?
Thanks guys, a couple of Q's though. First what the heck is IMHO,
Second, I just did the o-rings so should I be doing them again?
Clay you will be hearing from me real soon, I realize the longer I wait the better chance of blowing it up. A lot cheaper than I thought it would be, thanks. Just everyday tools i assume?
Yes, IMO I always change the o-rings out. Nothing worse than finishing a job just to find an oil leak. You won't need any special tools, just FTE
I forgot how it goes, I always thought in and out movement was what to watch out for. Is it up and down? I know one of them is normal and harmless, and the other is bad, I jsut can't remember which. thanks, thread hijack over.
I checked it out a while back and didn't have any movement other than a free wheel spin,
but this time I could feel a definite click up and down. Not a click into the housing but in the shaft. Wouldn't have even known to look for anything til it was too late if it weren't for FTE.
I forgot how it goes, I always thought in and out movement was what to watch out for. Is it up and down? I know one of them is normal and harmless, and the other is bad, I jsut can't remember which. thanks, thread hijack over.
Up and down is bad
In and out is normal and fine AS LONG AS the comp wheel cant move out enough to hit the compressor housing.
In and out is fine b/c it doesnt change the balancing of the turbo shaft so to say, since everything is still spinning around the same axis.
Up and down is bad, b/c its pretty much reaming out a bigger and bigger hole(bearings) then more the turbo is run, since part of the revolution the turbo shaft is not centered, especially when you think that the turbo wheel can spin 70-100,000 rpms
The factory turbo uses a floating bearing design. The shaft will always have radial play unless it is being supplied with oil and the shaft is spinning. Under these circumstances, the shaft aligns itself and runs centered. However, the shaft should never have any noticeable axial play. There is a large thrust bearing inside the unit that is necessary to overcome the forces imparted by the compressor and turbine wheels under dynamic conditions. This is the bearing that usually fails and leads to rubbing of the compressor and turbine wheels on the housings.
I have replaced many dozens of turbos and new ones out of the box always have radial shaft play unless they are ball-bearing turbos.
Just to be clear, any In & Out movement is NOT good!! When you screw the compressor wheel down, it seats on the thrust bearing and holds everything together. When that bearing gets worn, you'll get some in & out movement and it's time for a replacement. Some side-to-side is okay for the reasons mentioned by FireMe...
In & out = BAD, *some* side-to-side = okay, unless it moves enough to touch the housing.
Well, Clay took good care of me. Considering the fact that I would be tearing apart the turbo, we (I) decided to get a WW from him also. I got home from working tonight and saw the UPS package. Got my turbo rebuild kit and WW,
cute little guy (the WW not Clay). My question now is when I start putting the turbo back together should I locktite the housing bolts or anything else. I have a parts house guy getting me some high temp. locktite that I'll be able to pick up in the morning. So any direction here will be a big help. While I was there
they told me that they could load a trial of Bully Dog that they said would only last for about 3 days. Should I try this, start a new thread about it. I haven't
read any other posts about it either. It is a free trial so ... Also I don't have
any gauges either.
I would stay away from the Dog, if you want a tuner get DP or Tony Wildman. Clay can also set you up with DP Tuner tunes. Get gauges first. Also open up the exhaust if you have not yet. The 6637 intake is a good cheaper rout to go for air intake upgrading. More air in more exhaust out = better running performing truck.
Use red lok-tite on the exhaust housing bolts and blue on the compressor side. None on the wheel. It stays tight due to the direction of the shaft spinning it.
Thanks for the replies, the red and blue locktite are only good for, I think, 350deg.f
We did a little experiment with a handheld thermo. and without pushing the engine too
much the housing was up to 275 deg. no problem. His suggestion was the high temp.
I'm not trying to dis anybody, I just don't want to have something go wrong after the fact.
Also back on the Dog thing, it's just a trial thing for free. I've never chipped anything, and prob. won't buy one anytime soon (I would like to upgrade exhaust, intake, gauges
etc.) but still need to pay off the truck. The suspense is killing me, I always read your posts on the DP and PHP, but you know.
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