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Maybe this seems silly to you guys but I just got my ammeter working! I hadn't seen that thing move since I was a kid. It now moves like it's supposed to. You didn't have to look closely to see it move either. When I start the truck it will move about 1/4 of an inch toward the C. My wife thought I had hurt myself when she heard me outside. When I told her what I'd done she just thought I was crazy.
Just thought I'd share my happy moment with you guys...
Sorry about that. I was too excited to think about it. I started off by cleaning any connections I could find under the hood. I also sanded and cleaned any grounds I could find. Not sure which of those got the meter working slightly but that's what I did.
The main problem was on the instrument cluster. There was a bad connection where the wiring harness hooks into the back of it onto the flexible circuit. I cleaned all of those and it worked perfectly! The funny thing was that it didn't look corroded or anything.
Sorry I don't have more specific instructions on what I did. I had tried several other times to get it working and this time I just cleaned every stinking connection I could find. Somewhere along the line I lucked up and cleaned the right one.
Like I said there was a connection under the hood that got it move very slightly (don't know which) but the thing that got it to really move was cleaning the back of the cluster.
I hope this makes a little bit of sense anyway...
I tried the connection cleaning routine but didn't get the instument cluster,i cleaned something and it moved a little I think. now i know there is hope .
I forgot to mention that I did take off the nuts that hold the ammeter in place and cleaned those connections too. Like I said something I did under the hood got it to move just enough to barely see it move but the key was the connections on the cluster/flexible circuit.
Mine will move about 1/4 of an inch towards the C when the truck is running. This is roughly the same amount it moved years ago so it's moving about the same amount as new. My dad bought the truck new a couple of months before I was born so I know this trucks history. If your ammeter moves so little that you have to hold your head still and really pay attention to see it move off of the center mark then something is wrong with it.
If your ammeter moves so little that you have to hold your head still and really pay attention to see it move off of the center mark then something is wrong with it.
That's not necessarily true, these ammeter gauges were notorious for barely moving even when they were functioning properly.
It's true in my case. Maybe the one on this truck was just exceptional from the beginning. I won't argue because I obviously don't know how your truck or others originally worked. I can only say that for MY truck if it's not moving at all or moving only enough that I really have to look close then MINE is not working right. I spent a lot of time as a child in this truck and it was plain as day to me then just as it is now.
Sorry for any confusion.
None of the 73-79 gauges are known for their accuracy, they're estimates at best of the actual reading, peek into the cab of any 73-79 and 9 times outta 10 there's a gauge cluster with oil, temp, volts, it's because the factory gauges are basically worthless when it comes to accuracy.
You should throw a voltmeter onto the battery and see what running voltage is and possibly put a load test onto the battery as well. If the needle is swinging a 1/4" the alternator is either overcharging or the battery is just about toast.
The TSB that was posted isn't an isolated case. The ammeters is MILLIONS of Ford cars and trucks from the early 60s to the 80s had the "issue" of the needle not moving or barely moving.
I would tend to think with all the "cleaning" you did you might have caused more harm than good.