351 W water flow & fuel problems
351 W water flow & fuel problems
Hopefully I am posting these problems in the right area. I have a 1982 F250 with a 351 W that has been converted to 4bbl with Edelbrock aluminum intake (EGR) and Holley 600 vacum secondary. As far as I know the heads are stock (should they have been changed when converted to 4bbl?).
Problem 1 - Water flow from engine to radiator. Engine runs fine but when it warms up water will not fully flow from engine to radiator. You can feel a small amount of water flow in hose but no noticable flow seen in radiator. Applying more throttle causes upper radiator hose to colapse but will open back up when cool or pressure released by cap. If I run it without a thermostat water runs fine from return side and is visible when looking in radiator but not with a thermostat in. I am on my third thermostat and cannot figure this out. Water pump is for a '92 as everything up front has been changed to serpentine belt vice V belt prior to my owning this truck. What could be causing the lack of water flow past the thermostat?
Problem 2 - Fuel will flow back towards tank when engine is shut off. Have duel tanks. Rear pump was noisy and discovered clogged filter. Replaced filter and stopped noise. Had problems with fuel flow on my recent trip moving from Arizona to Colorado so bypassed the fuel switch and am only running front tank directly thru filter/pump to carb. Have glass filter just before carb and can watch the fuel flow down as soon as engine is shut off. This is a new pump also. Why does the pressure not maintain when turned off?
I am not real familiar with ford motors and have been beating my head against the wall on this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Rusty
Problem 1 - Water flow from engine to radiator. Engine runs fine but when it warms up water will not fully flow from engine to radiator. You can feel a small amount of water flow in hose but no noticable flow seen in radiator. Applying more throttle causes upper radiator hose to colapse but will open back up when cool or pressure released by cap. If I run it without a thermostat water runs fine from return side and is visible when looking in radiator but not with a thermostat in. I am on my third thermostat and cannot figure this out. Water pump is for a '92 as everything up front has been changed to serpentine belt vice V belt prior to my owning this truck. What could be causing the lack of water flow past the thermostat?
Problem 2 - Fuel will flow back towards tank when engine is shut off. Have duel tanks. Rear pump was noisy and discovered clogged filter. Replaced filter and stopped noise. Had problems with fuel flow on my recent trip moving from Arizona to Colorado so bypassed the fuel switch and am only running front tank directly thru filter/pump to carb. Have glass filter just before carb and can watch the fuel flow down as soon as engine is shut off. This is a new pump also. Why does the pressure not maintain when turned off?
I am not real familiar with ford motors and have been beating my head against the wall on this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Rusty
Are you sure you are installing the thermostst correctly and not reversed?
Are you sure you have the belt routed correctly for the water pump in use?
The fuel system should have a check valve in it somewhere to prevent backflow.. perhaps in the switching resovoir, so maybe you bypassed it unknowingly.
Are you sure you have the belt routed correctly for the water pump in use?
The fuel system should have a check valve in it somewhere to prevent backflow.. perhaps in the switching resovoir, so maybe you bypassed it unknowingly.
Thanks for the quick replies.
The thermostat is in correctly - spring side towards manifold. Since I am a bit long in the teeth and suffer from crs, I pulled the cover back off this morning just to make sure.
The belt is routed according to the 5.0/5.8L diagram that was (luckily) still attached under the hood and what was in the manual. The fan is turning in the proper direction - clockwise from driver seat. When I bought this pump what the computer showed at the local parts store for an '82 was nowhere close to what was in the truck. The counter person was nice enough to keep searching to find a match to what came out of the truck and what they came up with showed it to be for a '90 (I was wrong on the year in my original post). This pump fits perfect to the timing cover, all hoses, and is an exact match to what came out - at least from the outside. Is it possible that this water pump impeller is the wrong rotation, and if so how would I know and be able to correct this problem?
Fuel problem - When I got this truck I did not use the rear tank due to the noise from the pump and had no problems at all with the front pump. just before leaving Arizona I put in a new pump and filter for the rear tank. Also had to drop the rear tank to replace the fuel line from the tank to filter as the old one was rotted. After running about 10 gallons from the rear tank I started having problems with the idle surging - which eventually cleared itself up after only using the front tank for a while. Since then I have had the problem of the fuel pressure not holding in the line. Once I got here to Colorado I thought that possibly the switch had sucked something into it from the rear tank that could be causing the pressure not to hold so I routed the hose from the front filter past the switch to the fuel line to the carb hoping that this would eliminate the problem and if so I would replace the switch, but it did not help. Shouldn't the pump maintain pressure on it's own when the ignition is turned off?
Again, thanks in advance for any assistance.
Rusty
The thermostat is in correctly - spring side towards manifold. Since I am a bit long in the teeth and suffer from crs, I pulled the cover back off this morning just to make sure.
The belt is routed according to the 5.0/5.8L diagram that was (luckily) still attached under the hood and what was in the manual. The fan is turning in the proper direction - clockwise from driver seat. When I bought this pump what the computer showed at the local parts store for an '82 was nowhere close to what was in the truck. The counter person was nice enough to keep searching to find a match to what came out of the truck and what they came up with showed it to be for a '90 (I was wrong on the year in my original post). This pump fits perfect to the timing cover, all hoses, and is an exact match to what came out - at least from the outside. Is it possible that this water pump impeller is the wrong rotation, and if so how would I know and be able to correct this problem?
Fuel problem - When I got this truck I did not use the rear tank due to the noise from the pump and had no problems at all with the front pump. just before leaving Arizona I put in a new pump and filter for the rear tank. Also had to drop the rear tank to replace the fuel line from the tank to filter as the old one was rotted. After running about 10 gallons from the rear tank I started having problems with the idle surging - which eventually cleared itself up after only using the front tank for a while. Since then I have had the problem of the fuel pressure not holding in the line. Once I got here to Colorado I thought that possibly the switch had sucked something into it from the rear tank that could be causing the pressure not to hold so I routed the hose from the front filter past the switch to the fuel line to the carb hoping that this would eliminate the problem and if so I would replace the switch, but it did not help. Shouldn't the pump maintain pressure on it's own when the ignition is turned off?
Again, thanks in advance for any assistance.
Rusty
I believe the EFI motors use a reverse rotation water pump compared to the carb motors and '90 was definitely EFI so you probably had the wrong pump on there all along. If you have a serpentine belt you could try routing it differently to reverse pump rotation, if not you'll have to get another pump.
The in-tank pump modules do have check valves.. at least the high pressure version does, so maybe some dirt got in there and now it's stuck open. Does your pump module have a plastic resovoir around the pump itself?
The in-tank pump modules do have check valves.. at least the high pressure version does, so maybe some dirt got in there and now it's stuck open. Does your pump module have a plastic resovoir around the pump itself?
I was afraid that you were going to say that about the water pump. I have been playing around this morning trying to figure a way to route the serpentine belt differently, but there is just no way. My big problem now is to find a pump that will fit the timing cover, have the hose connections in the right places, and rotate the proper way. Any suggestions? It amazes me that I was able to drive like this for the 800 mile trip from Arizona to Colorado.
As far as fuel pumps, I forgot to state that both are electric frame mounted pumps and not in-tank. They are not stock and did not match as to psi, until I changed them. In fact the front pump was only 2.5 to 4 psi and now it has a 4 to 7 psi installed. The selector valve is a six-port selector with only three ports being used, one each for the tanks to feed from rear and one forward going to carb, the others (returns) are blocked off. Do you think that it is possible that the selector switch got something caught in it and is not allowing it to fully switch therefore causing a breach in any check valve in it? Of course that would not explain why it still does it with front pump going straight to the carb. This problem seems to also correct itself occasionally. I started it this morning to check for some oil leaks after replacing the intake gaskets (again) and when I shut it down the fuel has stayed full in the glass filter, but I know this will not last.
Nothing in this truck, that I have worked on, has matched with the book and appears that someone has done a lot of modifying (*******izing). I guess that is what I get for picking up a truck for sale in a conveinence store parking lot from someone who did not speak english too well.
As far as fuel pumps, I forgot to state that both are electric frame mounted pumps and not in-tank. They are not stock and did not match as to psi, until I changed them. In fact the front pump was only 2.5 to 4 psi and now it has a 4 to 7 psi installed. The selector valve is a six-port selector with only three ports being used, one each for the tanks to feed from rear and one forward going to carb, the others (returns) are blocked off. Do you think that it is possible that the selector switch got something caught in it and is not allowing it to fully switch therefore causing a breach in any check valve in it? Of course that would not explain why it still does it with front pump going straight to the carb. This problem seems to also correct itself occasionally. I started it this morning to check for some oil leaks after replacing the intake gaskets (again) and when I shut it down the fuel has stayed full in the glass filter, but I know this will not last.
Nothing in this truck, that I have worked on, has matched with the book and appears that someone has done a lot of modifying (*******izing). I guess that is what I get for picking up a truck for sale in a conveinence store parking lot from someone who did not speak english too well.
What you're going to have to do is determine if the pump you have is turning the correct way for your belt setup. If it isn't then you have a choice..
A) change the belt setup to turn the other way which may mean changing the pump pulley to a flat from ribbed or vise versa and may require a different length belt.
B) change the pump and timing cover for the other rotation or maybe use a universal pump.... these have round holes in the back cover versus the D shaped holes.
If it is turning the right way then you must have an obstruction in the coolant system somewhere.
A) change the belt setup to turn the other way which may mean changing the pump pulley to a flat from ribbed or vise versa and may require a different length belt.
B) change the pump and timing cover for the other rotation or maybe use a universal pump.... these have round holes in the back cover versus the D shaped holes.
If it is turning the right way then you must have an obstruction in the coolant system somewhere.
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I pulled the pump last night to check it and you are correct that it is reverse flow. I had thought about trying to reroute a longer belt to change the rotation of the pump but then that would change the rotation of the fan to blow air forward and not into the engine compartment wouldn't it? I guess I will have to try and find a timing cover and pump that will fit but I'm not sure what to look for. Guess I'm kinda stuck for now.
Thanks for all the info,
Rusty
Thanks for all the info,
Rusty
Not so difficult after all.
From what has been written here, it seems that the (1982) truck had the wrong water pump installed (a 1990 part), which was confirmed by the parts man comparing it to a 1990 unit.
It was stated that this water pump fit correctly, but looked different from the 1982 part.
I will predict that the 1982 pump will also bolt up correctly and be the correct rotation.
In summary, I think this problem is not so difficult. Just buy the correct 1982 water pump and install it.
It was stated that this water pump fit correctly, but looked different from the 1982 part.
I will predict that the 1982 pump will also bolt up correctly and be the correct rotation.
In summary, I think this problem is not so difficult. Just buy the correct 1982 water pump and install it.
Thanks for the suggestion and I wish it were just that simple, but there is a difference in the bolt hole pattern between the '82 and the '90. When I took the original one (what was on it when I got the truck) to the parts store we compared it to what is suppose to be on an '82 and they did not match. I have a suspicion that this motor may not even be an '82 since there are some other issues that I have noticed. I need to get the numbers off of the block to confrim that though. Correct me if I am wrong but aren't the numbers on the bottom of the block above the starter, and will they tell me what year motor it is?
Thanks again,
Rusty
Thanks again,
Rusty
A picture is worth a thousand words.
Okay, here's some good info from the Flowkooler website:
http://flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/cata...?cPath=1_5_129
standard, reverse rotation & open water pumps (clockwise, counterclockwise & bi-directional)<hr> Refer to the belt path diagram under the hood, typically located on the fan shroud or front fender brace, or locate the water pump pulleys on the vehicle. Compare the diagrams below. Water pump pulleys running on the inside surface of the belt indicate a Standard Rotation water pump (grooved side of belt).
Water pump pulleys running on the outside surface of the belt indicate a Reverse Rotation water pump (flat or smooth side of belt).
Caution: Standard and Reverse Rotation Water Pumps are not interchangeable.
When the question arises, "Is this a standard or reverse rotation water pump?", the customer's own vehicle holds the clearest answer. Under the hood on most late-model light trucks and automobiles, is a belt path diagram. Locate the water pump pulley on the diagram (on the front of the engine if you cannot find the diagram). Simply determine if the water pump is driven by the inside or outside of the belt.

<table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td class="pageHeading">Let's See What We Have Here</td> <td align="right">
</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table class="productListing" width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr> <td class="productListing-heading" align="center">
</td> <td class="productListing-heading"> Product Name+ </td> <td class="productListing-heading" align="right"> Price </td> <td class="productListing-heading" align="center"> Buy Now </td> </tr> <tr class="productListing-odd"> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> <td class="productListing-data"> Pump applications by make, model & year </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="right"> $0.00 </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> </tr> <tr class="productListing-even"> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> <td class="productListing-data"> Pump: 1650 (Ford, Lincoln, Mercury) 255, 302, 351W, 351 </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="right"> $97.95 </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> </tr> <tr class="productListing-odd"> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> <td class="productListing-data"> Pump: 1650CI (Ford, Lincoln, Mercury) 255, 258, 302, 351, 351W </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="right"> $101.95 </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> </tr> <tr class="productListing-even"> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> <td class="productListing-data"> Pump: 1650P (Ford, Lincoln, Mercury) 255, 302, 351W, 351
Polished </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="right"> $152.00 </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> </tr> <tr class="productListing-odd"> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> <td class="productListing-data"> Pump: 1653 (Ford, Lincoln, Mercury) 255, 302, 351W </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="right"> $128.19 </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> </tr> <tr class="productListing-even"> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> <td class="productListing-data"> Pump: 1656 (Ford) 302, 351W CCW Rotation </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="right"> $104.95 </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td></tr></tbody></table>
http://flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/cata...?cPath=1_5_129
Water pump pulleys running on the outside surface of the belt indicate a Reverse Rotation water pump (flat or smooth side of belt).
Caution: Standard and Reverse Rotation Water Pumps are not interchangeable.
When the question arises, "Is this a standard or reverse rotation water pump?", the customer's own vehicle holds the clearest answer. Under the hood on most late-model light trucks and automobiles, is a belt path diagram. Locate the water pump pulley on the diagram (on the front of the engine if you cannot find the diagram). Simply determine if the water pump is driven by the inside or outside of the belt.

<table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td class="pageHeading">Let's See What We Have Here</td> <td align="right">
</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table class="productListing" width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr> <td class="productListing-heading" align="center"> </td> <td class="productListing-heading"> Product Name+ </td> <td class="productListing-heading" align="right"> Price </td> <td class="productListing-heading" align="center"> Buy Now </td> </tr> <tr class="productListing-odd"> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> <td class="productListing-data"> Pump applications by make, model & year </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="right"> $0.00 </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> </tr> <tr class="productListing-even"> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> <td class="productListing-data"> Pump: 1650 (Ford, Lincoln, Mercury) 255, 302, 351W, 351 </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="right"> $97.95 </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> </tr> <tr class="productListing-odd"> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> <td class="productListing-data"> Pump: 1650CI (Ford, Lincoln, Mercury) 255, 258, 302, 351, 351W </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="right"> $101.95 </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> </tr> <tr class="productListing-even"> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> <td class="productListing-data"> Pump: 1650P (Ford, Lincoln, Mercury) 255, 302, 351W, 351 Polished </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="right"> $152.00 </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> </tr> <tr class="productListing-odd"> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> <td class="productListing-data"> Pump: 1653 (Ford, Lincoln, Mercury) 255, 302, 351W </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="right"> $128.19 </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> </tr> <tr class="productListing-even"> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td> <td class="productListing-data"> Pump: 1656 (Ford) 302, 351W CCW Rotation </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="right"> $104.95 </td> <td class="productListing-data" align="center">
</td></tr></tbody></table>
Yes, there is a date code as well as the casting number on the cylinder block above the starter motor, cleverly placed there so that the starter motor need be removed to read it (unless you are lucky and handy with an inspection mirror).
However, if the engine has been rebuilt or parts swapped around this might not be conclusive. The timing cover is the important part for the water pump to match. Can you get a casting number off of it?
However, if the engine has been rebuilt or parts swapped around this might not be conclusive. The timing cover is the important part for the water pump to match. Can you get a casting number off of it?
Thanks everyone for all of the great information. I have to admit that I am not that knowledgeable on Ford motors as this is the first one that I have ever really worked on, and it has been quite a learning experience for me.
After looking at the pictures and diagrams of the FlowKooler pumps that Beanscoot posted the pump that I have looks exactly like the 1660 reverse flow from the rear and just like the 1653 from the front. The belt path that I have is also like the reverse flow in the FlowKooler diagram next to the 1660 pump. The impeller in my pump resembles that of the fan on an alternator with the blades facing the same direction – from the top angling toward the right as it comes down to the center (I don’t know how better to describe it). The timing cover is the exact same as the one on the right in the post from Conanski, and the casting number is RF-F6TE-6059-JB. The d-shaped holes in the pump and timing cover also match up perfectly. So with all of this I am assuming that I have the right pump for the timing cover and should not be experiencing problems.
You will have to excuse my ignorance but as I stated this is the first Ford that I have ever really worked on and I am still in the learning process. When I tried to buy a pump for an ’82 in Arizona the only ones at the two Autozone stores I went to resembled the cast iron FlowKooler 1650 pump and they did not show anything shaped like the 1653, that is when they found the one for the ’90 that I have now. This weekend I did a search at both Checker and Autozone online here in Colorado and both of them show a pump available for an ’82 that is just like the one that I have now, so I guess I should have searched while I was in Arizona and pursued it more. Either way it appears that the pump that I have should be working, or am I missing something again? If this setup should be working correctly where do I go from here?
Another question based on my ignorance, and just to make sure things were hooked up right – on the top left of the water pump are two hose connectors – one goes to the heater core and the other has a small hose with a 90 degree bend that goes to the thermostat cover. When I got the truck the small hose was on the top and the hose to the heater core was on the bottom one, is this correct? If it is not then could this be a cause for the lack of flow on the return side?
Again, thank you all for your patience with me and I appreciate all of the expert advice that you have provided.
~ Rusty
After looking at the pictures and diagrams of the FlowKooler pumps that Beanscoot posted the pump that I have looks exactly like the 1660 reverse flow from the rear and just like the 1653 from the front. The belt path that I have is also like the reverse flow in the FlowKooler diagram next to the 1660 pump. The impeller in my pump resembles that of the fan on an alternator with the blades facing the same direction – from the top angling toward the right as it comes down to the center (I don’t know how better to describe it). The timing cover is the exact same as the one on the right in the post from Conanski, and the casting number is RF-F6TE-6059-JB. The d-shaped holes in the pump and timing cover also match up perfectly. So with all of this I am assuming that I have the right pump for the timing cover and should not be experiencing problems.
You will have to excuse my ignorance but as I stated this is the first Ford that I have ever really worked on and I am still in the learning process. When I tried to buy a pump for an ’82 in Arizona the only ones at the two Autozone stores I went to resembled the cast iron FlowKooler 1650 pump and they did not show anything shaped like the 1653, that is when they found the one for the ’90 that I have now. This weekend I did a search at both Checker and Autozone online here in Colorado and both of them show a pump available for an ’82 that is just like the one that I have now, so I guess I should have searched while I was in Arizona and pursued it more. Either way it appears that the pump that I have should be working, or am I missing something again? If this setup should be working correctly where do I go from here?
Another question based on my ignorance, and just to make sure things were hooked up right – on the top left of the water pump are two hose connectors – one goes to the heater core and the other has a small hose with a 90 degree bend that goes to the thermostat cover. When I got the truck the small hose was on the top and the hose to the heater core was on the bottom one, is this correct? If it is not then could this be a cause for the lack of flow on the return side?
Again, thank you all for your patience with me and I appreciate all of the expert advice that you have provided.
~ Rusty









