Regulated Return Homebrew
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: West cental Texas
Regulated Return Homebrew
Hey guys and gals,
Trying to come up with a shopping list for a regulated return system for the fuel system. I've been looking at a setup like psnut's with the hoses from jegs and the swivel fittings. I have the regulator I want to use but now I'm looking for size and connections specifics for all of this. I know the port on the heads is 1/8"NPT and that the factory hardlines are 5/16" compression fittings using a fuel sleeve as the compression component. So here's where I'm stuck trying to visualize all this. I can't find 5/16" comp fittings in my town. How do I connect the AN style fittings to the 5/16" on the fuel bowl? Online sources for fittings will work, I just haven't seen all the pieces of the puzzle on the Jeg's website. I'm looking at the budget, so that's why I'm going through the headache of homebrew. I want to get this mocked up before I install the engine since it's easier to do it on the stand. I think mating to the factory fittings on the fuel bowl, return line and capping the factory FPR are my biggest problems. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Chad
Trying to come up with a shopping list for a regulated return system for the fuel system. I've been looking at a setup like psnut's with the hoses from jegs and the swivel fittings. I have the regulator I want to use but now I'm looking for size and connections specifics for all of this. I know the port on the heads is 1/8"NPT and that the factory hardlines are 5/16" compression fittings using a fuel sleeve as the compression component. So here's where I'm stuck trying to visualize all this. I can't find 5/16" comp fittings in my town. How do I connect the AN style fittings to the 5/16" on the fuel bowl? Online sources for fittings will work, I just haven't seen all the pieces of the puzzle on the Jeg's website. I'm looking at the budget, so that's why I'm going through the headache of homebrew. I want to get this mocked up before I install the engine since it's easier to do it on the stand. I think mating to the factory fittings on the fuel bowl, return line and capping the factory FPR are my biggest problems. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Chad
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From: Carhenge
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From: Knoxville, TN
I used this as well when I made mine, along with a lot of help from another member here that had already made his own. Also check out this.....http://67.19.132.3/dieselinnovations...?page=techinfo. That is the diesel innovations tech page, under "regulator bypass" there is a parts list and pics of how there's is routed. Also check out ITP's website under there tech pages. Dennis has his install instructions listed and those are very informative and have great pics as well.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: West cental Texas
Thanks for the support guys, I'll look over the parts list while at work this evening and may do some online shopping. I have a few things I want to get done before the new long block goes in. This, replace the oil cooler (already here), and put on my new water pump (on order). I want to get this plumbing worked out before I put the tubro pedestal back on and before I re-attach my main wire loom.
Chad
Chad
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From: Knoxville, TN
Yes, and he was VERY helpful. FYI, I got all of my fittings off of Jeg's website and the hose from here, http://www.ppe.com/.
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From: Lancaster, Pa.
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From: Suffolk, VA
If you're going to do this, then you'll want to hold off on the FRx.
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From: Carhenge
Some advice from the been there, done that department.
Unless you get a screaming deal on the components or just get a thrill out of DIY projects, the money saved over one of the commercial kits isn't worth the trouble of putting together your own. (JMO)
If you go with the braided steel line, you have to be really careful that it is shielded with plastic armor anywhere it touches anything else. It is very abrasive and will eat through just about anything given enough miles (don't ask me how I know that).
Be very careful installing fittings in the back and front corners of the heads, there's been at least 2 members here crack their heads installing fittings in these locations.
I think it's a good idea to install heat shielding of some type on the lines going to the back of the heads, they are pretty close to the turbo, up-pipes and down pipe.
That's all for now.
Unless you get a screaming deal on the components or just get a thrill out of DIY projects, the money saved over one of the commercial kits isn't worth the trouble of putting together your own. (JMO)
If you go with the braided steel line, you have to be really careful that it is shielded with plastic armor anywhere it touches anything else. It is very abrasive and will eat through just about anything given enough miles (don't ask me how I know that).
Be very careful installing fittings in the back and front corners of the heads, there's been at least 2 members here crack their heads installing fittings in these locations.
I think it's a good idea to install heat shielding of some type on the lines going to the back of the heads, they are pretty close to the turbo, up-pipes and down pipe.
That's all for now.
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 10,977
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From: Lancaster, Pa.
, lol..Ahh, was thinking of it, we have a shop down the road that puts together custom hoses, for tractors, farm equipment, ect, was just a thought. Again, the time thing we were talking about with the bio..I already told Clay I'll be ordering from him soon so thats where i,m going.Some advice from the been there, done that department.
Unless you get a screaming deal on the components or just get a thrill out of DIY projects, the money saved over one of the commercial kits isn't worth the trouble of putting together your own. (JMO)
If you go with the braided steel line, you have to be really careful that it is shielded with plastic armor anywhere it touches anything else. It is very abrasive and will eat through just about anything given enough miles (don't ask me how I know that).
Be very careful installing fittings in the back and front corners of the heads, there's been at least 2 members here crack their heads installing fittings in these locations.
I think it's a good idea to install heat shielding of some type on the lines going to the back of the heads, they are pretty close to the turbo, up-pipes and down pipe.
That's all for now.
Unless you get a screaming deal on the components or just get a thrill out of DIY projects, the money saved over one of the commercial kits isn't worth the trouble of putting together your own. (JMO)
If you go with the braided steel line, you have to be really careful that it is shielded with plastic armor anywhere it touches anything else. It is very abrasive and will eat through just about anything given enough miles (don't ask me how I know that).
Be very careful installing fittings in the back and front corners of the heads, there's been at least 2 members here crack their heads installing fittings in these locations.
I think it's a good idea to install heat shielding of some type on the lines going to the back of the heads, they are pretty close to the turbo, up-pipes and down pipe.
That's all for now.
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Lancaster, Pa.
Gotta link Joe, much appeciated.
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Here you go -- I have this now, but haven't put it on yet. I already have the DFA CCK, so it's a pretty simple upgrade. Just want to put the fuel pressure gauge on first to see where I'm at now. Here's the linky:
http://www.dinofuelalternatives.com/...?prod=DFARR7.3
http://www.dinofuelalternatives.com/...?prod=DFARR7.3
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 10,977
Likes: 5
From: Lancaster, Pa.
Here you go -- I have this now, but haven't put it on yet. I already have the DFA CCK, so it's a pretty simple upgrade. Just want to put the fuel pressure gauge on first to see where I'm at now. Here's the linky:
http://www.dinofuelalternatives.com/...?prod=DFARR7.3
http://www.dinofuelalternatives.com/...?prod=DFARR7.3
