Regulated Return Homebrew
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 337
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From: West cental Texas
Well i appreciate the parts list. Still haven't fond the adapter to go to the factory return line. also a threaded cap for the FPR would be great. Just having problems finding anything in 5/16 compression. Also I've seen reference to 3/8" line. So here's a question. If i know my check valves at the heads are 5/16" does that mean the rest of the system is?
thanks
Chad
thanks
Chad
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,121
Likes: 0
From: Knoxville, TN
Well i appreciate the parts list. Still haven't fond the adapter to go to the factory return line. also a threaded cap for the FPR would be great. Just having problems finding anything in 5/16 compression. Also I've seen reference to 3/8" line. So here's a question. If i know my check valves at the heads are 5/16" does that mean the rest of the system is?
thanks
Chad
thanks
Chad
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: West cental Texas
I understand that much. I'm talking about the return line that screws onto the factory fuel regulator. that factory line just gets disconnected but will have to be connected to my new regulator. Anyone got a fitting for that and capping the factory reg?
Chad
Chad
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Damon (South East Texas)
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Carhenge
You can use this to cap off the regulator on the fuel bowl. http://67.19.132.3/dieselinnovations...cts&product=25
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,121
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From: Knoxville, TN
Well my setup is a little different because I deleted the fuel bowl, but this is what I used to connect to the factory return line......http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/165056/10002/-1. I just cut the end of the return line off where the flare is, removed the existing fitting on the line, installed this fitting in the link, and then screwed my return line from the regulator to the fitting. It might be a little tough to go this way with the fuel bowl still in place though. You might be able to put it further down the return line though.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Middle Tennessee
Factory fuel bowl and regulator are good for more power than most here will make. That is not a problem in our trucks unless you go big oil that requires factory bowl removal. Just food for thought. My factory bowl and filter are not holding me back right now.
I used spark plug boot header shielding sleeves over my lines that feed the rear of my heads.
I may adapt my rear fed system to feed the front as well since I have no air problems in my system. It is all there, just need to mod it from a rear fed front burp/dead end to a quad feed.
I used spark plug boot header shielding sleeves over my lines that feed the rear of my heads.
I may adapt my rear fed system to feed the front as well since I have no air problems in my system. It is all there, just need to mod it from a rear fed front burp/dead end to a quad feed.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: West cental Texas
thanks mueckster, I saw that one. Was kinda hoping for a $.50 cap, but the more I read, the more I become concerned about using something like that. Jeff that fitting is what I need, can't believe I missed it. I wonder if you could use that straight to the fitting already on the line. The fittings our fuel systems use are these Parker vibra-Lok fittings which appear to be compression fittings with fuel sleeves for the compression component. I think that ties everything together. When I get home after midnight, I'll double check all my fittings. I knew someone here would know the answer.
Thanks
Chad
Thanks
Chad
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Damon (South East Texas)
The most expensive part of the DIY is the regulator. I been searching for a good price on them. I have been thinking of converting my DIY CCK to an adjustable regulated return. I like my fuel pressure where it's at with the shim, so I don't know if I really need the adjustability. Like Mike said also, I don't think my fuel system is a limiting factor with my current mods.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 8
From: Hutchinson, KS
Some advice from the been there, done that department.
Unless you get a screaming deal on the components or just get a thrill out of DIY projects, the money saved over one of the commercial kits isn't worth the trouble of putting together your own. (JMO)
If you go with the braided steel line, you have to be really careful that it is shielded with plastic armor anywhere it touches anything else. It is very abrasive and will eat through just about anything given enough miles (don't ask me how I know that).
Be very careful installing fittings in the back and front corners of the heads, there's been at least 2 members here crack their heads installing fittings in these locations.
I think it's a good idea to install heat shielding of some type on the lines going to the back of the heads, they are pretty close to the turbo, up-pipes and down pipe.
That's all for now.
Unless you get a screaming deal on the components or just get a thrill out of DIY projects, the money saved over one of the commercial kits isn't worth the trouble of putting together your own. (JMO)
If you go with the braided steel line, you have to be really careful that it is shielded with plastic armor anywhere it touches anything else. It is very abrasive and will eat through just about anything given enough miles (don't ask me how I know that).
Be very careful installing fittings in the back and front corners of the heads, there's been at least 2 members here crack their heads installing fittings in these locations.
I think it's a good idea to install heat shielding of some type on the lines going to the back of the heads, they are pretty close to the turbo, up-pipes and down pipe.
That's all for now.
I figure my time and labor is free and I don't mind that. With building this RR kit, I actually did it quite a bit cheaper than buying the prefabbed kit. As Jeff posted, I got all my fittings from Jegs and hose (Parker push-loc 836 diesel rated) from PPE. Regulator cost the most and it was brand new from fleabay. Delete block and head fittings came from ITP. Wire loom, spark plug heat shielding, post-pump filter, and filter base all came from local shops. Put it all together based on Dennis' kit but with some changes along the way.
I only did mine because I wanted something different. Took my bowl out because I liked having more room in the valley. That's all.
Here's the link to my webshots Reg Return album if you want to check out how I did mine:
http://rides.webshots.com/album/570458250wGGLII?start=0
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 337
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From: West cental Texas
ok, so turns out the fitting at the fuel bowl for the return and supply line is 3/8" i believe. I found a cap for that at HD and i'll o-ring it out of my viton o-ring assorment to cap the factory reg off. now time to buy some fittings and hoses.
Chad
Chad
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