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Why run a regulated return style fuel system????

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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 03:22 PM
  #1  
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Why run a regulated return style fuel system????

I've been reading for the past few weeks and posted some of the problems I have. Everyone has been a great help so far. I have along list of PM to check and perform and then have a few easy mods I'd like to do. I guess I got the PSD bug. Which sucks because now I have to decide between spending money on my racecar or my truck......hhmmmmmmmmm.....

I see where some of you are running a regulated return style fuel system. Why? What's the advantages? Is it just to purge air out? Anybody have a parts breakdown and maybe a simple diagram. I may already have the regulator I need laying around if it's similar to the one on the racecar.


Thanks.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 04:35 PM
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Everyone, including myself, who have gotten rid of the air in the fuel supply will testify on how much better the engine runs, sounds, etc.
The design of the PSD fuel supply allows a lot of air into the fuel stream before it even gets to the injectors. The fuel rails dead end and any air that get's introduced to the fuel rails must exit through the injectors. For me that is unacceptable. Can you think of any good reason to have air in your fuel at 20,000 psi?
Ultimatly it's your decision on where to put your money. The idea that I came up with will set you back about $100.00 and a couple of days scrounging up the proper NPT fittings, fuel line, and modifying the fuel supply. But once done, I am confident you'll wonder why you waited so long. The engine loses most of that injector rattle and replaces it with a nice diesel growl.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by John7894
I've been reading for the past few weeks and posted some of the problems I have. Everyone has been a great help so far. I have along list of PM to check and perform and then have a few easy mods I'd like to do. I guess I got the PSD bug. Which sucks because now I have to decide between spending money on my racecar or my truck......hhmmmmmmmmm.....

I see where some of you are running a regulated return style fuel system. Why? What's the advantages? Is it just to purge air out? Anybody have a parts breakdown and maybe a simple diagram. I may already have the regulator I need laying around if it's similar to the one on the racecar.


Thanks.
The main reason I did it was to get the air out. I was going to do it without the external regulator, but decided to use SS braided line, anodized swivel fittings and a regulator. It is nice to be able to play with the fuel pressure and get it right where you like it and the big lines will flow much more fuel. Nice for future mods.

I think I still have the parts list, I will try to post it later. Just about everything can be purchased at jegs.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
The idea that I came up with will set you back about $100.00 and a couple of days scrounging up the proper NPT fittings, fuel line, and modifying the fuel supply.
I should have included the fact that Kwikk's is about 1/4 the price and works as well. I just wanted some "bling" so I used the SS line and anodized fittings. As Kwikk said, great mod that can be done for under $100!
 
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 04:51 PM
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Thanks. If you can post up the major parts I need. Like a certain regulator, etc. I'd appreciate it.

I have a nice Barry Grant return style fuel system here in the garage but it's for the racecar. I'm guessing I just need a return style regulator, press gauge and the knowhow of where to plumb what?

Thanks. The air explains why everyone's PSD sounds different. I hear 3-4 different ones every week (different friends) and they all sound different.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 07:17 PM
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I agree, it would be great if you could give us some more info on how we could put the same thing together for our trucks! thanks Andy351
 
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 07:36 PM
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Same here Hink. I've been looking over Kwiks thread on his air bleed system ( https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=442115 ) and I really like your regulator setup.

Does anyone have a drawing of how everythings connected?? I learn best by picture.

Thanks.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by twags6
Does anyone have a drawing of how everythings connected?? I learn best by picture.

Thanks.
There's one in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=260173

Diesel Innovations also has a good diagram in their install instructions for their regulated return system. It should be available on their website.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 09:48 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by John7894
Thanks. If you can post up the major parts I need. Like a certain regulator, etc. I'd appreciate it.

I have a nice Barry Grant return style fuel system here in the garage but it's for the racecar. I'm guessing I just need a return style regulator, press gauge and the knowhow of where to plumb what?

Thanks. The air explains why everyone's PSD sounds different. I hear 3-4 different ones every week (different friends) and they all sound different.
In a nut shell, the idea is to take both of the fuel ports on the filter bowl and send them to the back of the fuel rails on each side (factory setup is one to front (driver side) and one to rear (passenger side). Run lines from the front of each fuel rail to the regulator and run the return from the regulator to the factory return line.

Here are the parts I used. Basically the same as DI's kit. You can get most everything at Jegs except where noted.

Adapters:
(2) 1/8 npt x #6 Straight
(3) 1/8 npt x #6 45 deg.
(1) 1/8 npt x #6 90 deg.
(1) 3/8 male compression x 1/8 fpt 90 deg. (hardware store item, this connects directly to the factory return line without cutting, see my gallery for pics)

Hose Fittings:
(5) 6AN Straight
(2) 6AN 90 deg.
(3) 6AN 45 deg.

Completed hose configurations:
•8" hose w/#6 straight and #6 90 deg.
•12" hose with 3/8 male compression x 1/8 fpt 90 deg. to 1/8 npt x #6 adapter to #6 straight other end #6 straight (pic in my gallery if that's confusing)
•15" hose w #6 straight and #6 45 deg.
•22" Hose w/ 2 45 deg. fittings
•26" hose w/ #6 straight & #6 90?
If you want the regulator anywhere other than where I mounted mine, the hose lengths will be different. The lengths are measured from end of the fittings.

Other
• 10' 6AN braided steel fuel line
• Heat wrap (to cover line near turbo/exhaust
• Regulator 2 in, 1 out with gauge port, like this ( http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=19931 )
• Pressure gauge
• 3/8 compression cap for factory regulator (others call for 5/16, that would not fit mine so check first) I had a hard time getting a seal on this so I bought a replacement cap for the regulator here http://www.dieselinnovations.com/di....products&cat=2 (scroll down)
• high temp pipe dope
• #6AN Wrench (nice to have, doesn't mar the anodized finish)
• bracket for regulator (I used 2" aluminum)

If you have these parts and follow these directions here, you should have no problem.
http://www.dieselinnovations.com/di.php?page=techinfo

I capped off the factory regulator, others gut the factory regulator and tie factory return (with a small orifice) into the external regulator return. The idea is to eliminate any air in the filter housing. Check out jtharvey's, he did a nice job. If you want to do it cheaper, find Kwikk's method. Several people have done this mod differently, and combined designs so do some searching here is a thread to look at. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=442115

The one real PITA is the driver side rear, very hard to get to. If you can get the down pipe off that makes it much easier, otherwise loosen it. If you have any questions, let me know and I will do my best to answer them. I have several pics of system in my gallery.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 10:24 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by hink10
I capped off the factory regulator, others gut the factory regulator and tie factory return (with a small orifice) into the external regulator return. The idea is to eliminate any air in the filter housing. Check out jtharvey's, he did a nice job. If you want to do it cheaper, find Kwikk's method. Several people have done this mod differently, and combined designs so do some searching here is a thread to look at. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=442115

The one real PITA is the driver side rear, very hard to get to. If you can get the down pipe off that makes it much easier, otherwise loosen it. If you have any questions, let me know and I will do my best to answer them. I have several pics of system in my gallery.
Good description hink!! Also, anyone can PM me or email me with any questions about the system. My gallery is also full of pics.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 07:38 AM
  #11  
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So is everyone just getting a quiter engine with this mod or are they also getting a MPG increase??
 
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 08:36 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Jerrod
So is everyone just getting a quiter engine with this mod or are they also getting a MPG increase??
My engine is quieter at idle, haven't had a good chance to check mpg.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by hink10
My engine is quieter at idle, haven't had a good chance to check mpg.
I didn't get any change in mileage. I should get better than my 12-13 mpg empty, but I think the nozzles on my truck are too beat up.
And new injectors are inexcuseably expensive.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 10:18 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Jerrod
So is everyone just getting a quiter engine with this mod or are they also getting a MPG increase??
Quieter yes. But I think Kwik will agree that getting all the air out of the lines also gives the truck a better feeling of midrange power, especially when out on the highway. The air in the lines will also cause damage to the injectors, so the sooner you get the air out of the lines, the longer your injectors will live.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 10:47 AM
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JT, yes that was the biggest difference: midrange power and a lot less throttle to maintain the same speed as before.
 
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