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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Removing and installing a Distributor

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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 10:13 PM
  #16  
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where can you get a new eec relay?
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 06:53 AM
  #17  
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by Jupes
Great thread guys, and just the info I was looking for. I don't have my manual yet and have to change the distributor on my '96 F-250 XL with a 4.9L 6 cylinder. Does anyone know the timing I need to set for in my case? Thanks in advance.

John
It would still be 10 BTDC.
This will work for the OBD I system.
Some 1996 may not be adjustable if you have OBD II.


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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 06:57 AM
  #18  
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by B Dobz
where can you get a new eec relay?
Most auto pars stores will sell them but sometimes they will have to order it.
Also you may want to rewire and use a newer stile BOSH relay.

The EEC Power relay is called the PCM Power relay in this diagram:




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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 07:01 AM
  #19  
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you don`t think the new dizzy had something to do with these pumps running do you?
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 07:41 AM
  #20  
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From: Easton,Ks
If the pumps come on for one second and stop when you first turn in the key then no at this point.
If they come on for one second and stop and do not come on again while cranking then maybe.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 07:45 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by subford
Take the cap and adapter off the top of the distributor.
Turn the engine by hand (crankshaft bolt) until the pointer in the distributor points to the rear about where number one wire was on the cap.
Then look at the pointer down at the crankshaft damper an position the engine where the pointer points to Top Dead Center (TDC).
Do not move the engine until after the new distributor is in place.
Remove the hold down bolt and pull the distributor out.
Drop the new distributor in and have pointer pointing to where number one wire would be on the cap.
Start the distributor hold down bolt until you can just turn the distributor by hand.
Remove the SPOUT shorting bar.
Hook a timing light to number one wire after you put the rotor, cap and adapter back on.
Start the engine and turn the distributor until the pointer points to 10 degrees BTDC.
Tight the hold down bolt and recheck the timing.
If still at 10 BTDC put the SPOUT back in and check to see that the timing moves some.
If so remove the light and you are done.
Sorry, I don't mean to hijack this thread, but I need to check the timing on a 1995 F150 w/ 302. What is the SPOUT shorting bar that you have to remove to check it?
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 07:53 AM
  #22  
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Thank you Bill - you are certainly a wealth of information and tremendously helpful. Very much appreciated.

I just bought the F-250 from a "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" sort of fellow, and now I have a few things to sort out (like its first proper tune-up since 2002 before getting it on the road. The inside of the distributor was just completely shot. Luckily the engine only has 130,000 miles and checks out strong for compression.

John

Madison, WI
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 08:32 AM
  #23  
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by rlh68050
Sorry, I don't mean to hijack this thread, but I need to check the timing on a 1995 F150 w/ 302. What is the SPOUT shorting bar that you have to remove to check it?
The SPOUT signal, short for SPark OUTput, is a digital signal generated by the PCM providing spark angle information to the ICM.

Here is a photo:


/
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 09:01 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by subford
The SPOUT signal, short for SPark OUTput, is a digital signal generated by the PCM providing spark angle information to the ICM.

Here is a photo:


/
So this needs to be disconnected in order to check the timing? Then reconnected after the adjustment is made? 10deg BTDC is the correct spec?

I was confused by the term "shorting bar".
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 09:10 AM
  #25  
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by rlh68050
So this needs to be disconnected in order to check the timing? Then reconnected after the adjustment is made? 10deg BTDC is the correct spec?

I was confused by the term "shorting bar".
Yes that is all correct.
Ford uses the term "shorting bar" but you can call it a jumper if you like.
It just shorts the two wires together.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 09:39 AM
  #26  
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Well I reconected the battery and the pumps stopped running so i fired her up and it ran great!shut her down and the pumps stopprd running so i took her for a ten miles run and she ran great.I went and bumped the timing up to 12 degrees and took her out again and she did peep up and no pinging.thanks everyone for there help.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2012 | 10:24 AM
  #27  
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i need a new spout, who sells them??
 
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Old Jun 24, 2012 | 10:45 AM
  #28  
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From: Easton,Ks
Why do you think you need a new one?
I-6 SPOUT Location:


/
 
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Old Jun 25, 2012 | 05:46 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by zstangkrewson
i need a new spout, who sells them??
Are you referring to the shorting plug that is normally installed? If you can't find one (I'd start at a local junkyard, and then try the dealer), you can cut off the mating connector and install a male-female connector on the two wires, or a toggle switch if you check your timing a lot (off = check timing, on = normal operation).
 
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