I replaced the rotor/hub assembly plus bearings on my 2000 Ranger, along with the brake pads. The process was actually extremely simple, but I ran into two snags that have left me without a truck.

1) They Haynes manual doesn't state the process for tightening down the spindle nut. I know from talking to a buddy of mine that on his Torino Ford recommends spinning the wheel, torquing to 25 ft-lbs, backing off, then finger tightening the nut. I'm assuming that's to seat the bearings, then back the nut off to allow them to rotate freely. So what's the process on my 2000 Ranger 2wd?

2) Upon tightening the lug nuts two of the lugs stripped out - ruining the lug nuts, as well as doing some damage to the first 1/2" of the threads on the lug bolt. Am I screwed here, or might the lugs be salvagable without taking the thing to a machine shop? I was thinking of maybe tapping the threads to clean them up - but only the first 1/2" - not the whole length. If tapping's an option - what's the dimension of the lug bolts?

 

Im not sure as to the tightening of the nut but one thing is for sure, trash the damaged studs and nuts. You had to have crossthreaded them upon reinstallation of the wheel. Even if you could chase the threads, the damaged threads would be significantly weaker. I dont know about you, but I prefer my wheels to stay attached and spending a couple dollars is well worth it in this case. As for the size of the studs and nuts, just go to an auto parts store and have them look it up. Last time I bought studs they were about $1.00 each and $.50 for the nuts. It would be much cheaper to just replace them and its not a hard job at all. You could either rent the installer or just use a lug nut and hammer like I always use.

 

Thanks for the reply on the studs. I got the impression that the studs were press fitted into the hub, so I could bang all day on it and never get them to budge. is that not the case?

 

They are press fit but it is not hard at all to remove and install the studs. They make stud installers that you can rent or borrow from auto parts stores. I just lay the rotor flat and smack the end of the stud. Usually it pops out after the first or second smack. To reinstall them I put them in the hole and line up the splines. I then thread a lugnut on the stud and tighten it until I feel a good but of resistance. After that I just smack the back of the stud and retighten the nut. Repeat that process several times until it bottoms out and bam, you have just installed a stud. I know it is not the recommended procedure but I have done it hundreds of times with no problems.

 

Well I think i found the torque specs for the spindle nut.

Had to grab it from the super-duty forum, but sounds like 21 ft-lbs, back off a half-turn then finger tighten. That jives with my buddy's Torino, which the Ford manual says 25ft-lbs then finger tighten.

 

PATH:**Suspension*>*Front Suspension*>*Wheel Bearings*>*Adjustment*>*2-Wheel Drive
2-Wheel Drive
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Remove the grease cap from the hub and wipe the excess grease from the end of the spindle. Remove the cotter pin and retainer. Discard the cotter pin.
Loosen the adjusting nut 3 turns.
WARNING
Obtain running clearance between the disc brake rotor surface and shoe linings by rocking the entire wheel assembly in and out several times in order to push the caliper and brake pads away from the rotor. An alternate method to obtain proper running clearance is to tap lightly on the caliper housing. Be sure not to tap on any other area that may damage the disc brake rotor or the brake lining surfaces. Do not pry on the phenolic caliper piston. The running clearance must be maintained throughout the adjustment procedure. If proper clearance cannot be maintained, the caliper must be removed from its mounting.
While rotating the wheel assembly, tighten the adjusting nut to 17–25 ft. lbs. (23–34 Nm) in order to seat the bearings. Loosen the adjusting nut a half turn. Retighten the adjusting nut 18–20 inch lbs. (2.0–2.2 Nm).

Loosen the adjusting nut 3 turns, then rock the entire wheel assembly in-and-out to spread the brake pads before attempting to adjust the bearing—2wd vehicles
Click to Enlarge
Place the retainer on the adjusting nut. The castellations on the retainer must be in alignment with the cotter pin holes in the spindle. Once this is accomplished install a new cotter pin and bend the ends to insure its being locked in place.
Check for proper wheel rotation. If correct, install the grease cap.
Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs., (136 Nm) if the wheel was removed. Before driving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal several times to restore normal brake pedal travel.
CAUTION
If the wheel was removed, retighten the wheel lug nuts to specification after about 500 miles (804km) of driving. Failure to do this could result in the wheel coming off while the vehicle is in motion causing loss of vehicle control or collision.

 

Straight from chiltons, that is the correct procedure for your truck.

 

Thanks I appreciate it.

BTW: I thought Chilton's didn't make a manual for this Ranger series? Did they finally get around to adding one or what? Honestly I'm using the Haynes ONLY because Chilton's didn't make a guide for my truck. I hate the Haynes manuals.

 

I pulled the info from Chiltons autolibrary online. So I guess they finally got around to making one.

 

Well for what it's worth I finished up this afternoon.

I got myself a 1/2" 20 threading die and cut just enough of the threads to allow the new lugnuts to screw on - only had to cut about 1/4" of the stud, so no damage

I retorqued the spindle nut per your directions and finished the job.

The wheel looks kind of crappy with it's mismatched lugnuts - but I really don't give a flying F about that.

So it worked out - now I only have to do the other side. But that can wait until tommorrow, my herniated back is acting up big time.