More problems with F100
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From: Wingo, Ky
More problems with F100
OK Ive been fighting running problems with my 73 f100 302 for a couple months now. It was smoking from to much fuel and missing badly. I replaced the carb today with a new one. It doesn't smoke now but it still has a bad miss. Engine has 51,000 miles on it. Doesn't use any oil.
At idle the truck shakes bad and I can pull off three spark plug wires the ones on 3,7,8 and it doesnt seem to make a difference. But when I pull these plugs out they look like they are firing.
If I get the truck out on the road and poor it to her she will burn the tires through 1st and 2nd and doesnt seem to be missing. But idle as I stated it runs poorly. I thought maybe I should do a compression test on it, what should the psi be? The engine is low miles and never been rebuilt but I still figure it probably don't have alot of compression due from being so old?
I took the valve covers off and cranked it all the valves are working properly.
I dont know what else to do to it.
New items: Plugs, wires, distributer cap, points, carburetor. Thanks in advance.
At idle the truck shakes bad and I can pull off three spark plug wires the ones on 3,7,8 and it doesnt seem to make a difference. But when I pull these plugs out they look like they are firing.
If I get the truck out on the road and poor it to her she will burn the tires through 1st and 2nd and doesnt seem to be missing. But idle as I stated it runs poorly. I thought maybe I should do a compression test on it, what should the psi be? The engine is low miles and never been rebuilt but I still figure it probably don't have alot of compression due from being so old?
I took the valve covers off and cranked it all the valves are working properly.
I dont know what else to do to it.
New items: Plugs, wires, distributer cap, points, carburetor. Thanks in advance.
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From: Schweinfurt Germany
Check under your dis cap look at the plate where your points and condensor are. You should have a vac adance arm that attaches to a pin on this plate remove the c clip beware this little bugger is a pain to find if you drop it so do not drop it. Look at the arm first if the hole for the pin has been elongated you need to add a new vac advance that is simple enough a couple of bolts and you are good to go. Now if that isn't it there are three little plastic nubs on the bottom of the plate these keep the plate from grounding out and keep it from moving around. They really like to come off and is a totally a pain to put new ones on. let me know if that helps. (My truck had the same problem and that is what fixed it so I pass it on)
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From: Wingo, Ky
Everything inside the distributer looked good. I inspected the parts you talked about, didnt see anything wrong.
Checked over firing order, wires are in right place. Still idles like crap. If I get out on the road and drive it, it runs fine.
I don't think there is anything wrong with the new carb.
It must be something electrical. Coil? Rotor? Condenser? Everything else has been replaced.
I did a compression test 140-150psi on all cylinders. Plugs look very good, engine is running very clean.
Maybe timing is off? I guess maybe next I should get number 1 on TDC and then pop dizzy cap and see where rotor is landing at.
Checked over firing order, wires are in right place. Still idles like crap. If I get out on the road and drive it, it runs fine.
I don't think there is anything wrong with the new carb.
It must be something electrical. Coil? Rotor? Condenser? Everything else has been replaced.
I did a compression test 140-150psi on all cylinders. Plugs look very good, engine is running very clean.
Maybe timing is off? I guess maybe next I should get number 1 on TDC and then pop dizzy cap and see where rotor is landing at.
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From: Wingo, Ky
I sprayed carb cleaner everywhere, no difference in rpm. Tried adjusting idle mixture screws in and out and that made it not idle at all, had to put it back the way it was. Out on the road will run like a scalded dog.
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Stanley, VA
If it has power brakes take a pair of pliers and pinch the vacuum line that goes to the booster.
If the booster is leaking it won't show up spraying around the intake manifold, the same goes for anything (A/C) under the dash thats vacuum operated.
If the booster is leaking it won't show up spraying around the intake manifold, the same goes for anything (A/C) under the dash thats vacuum operated.
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From: Wingo, Ky
Doesnt have power brakes. Ill check over all the lines again tomorow to see if I missed somethin.
I told in another post above that I replaced carb, plugs, wires, points, and cap. The coil, rotor, and condenser have not and they are original. All the parts on the truck were still orginal from 73 when I bought it.
Possible that there is something wrong with idle circuit on new carb?
I told in another post above that I replaced carb, plugs, wires, points, and cap. The coil, rotor, and condenser have not and they are original. All the parts on the truck were still orginal from 73 when I bought it.
Possible that there is something wrong with idle circuit on new carb?
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From: Wingo, Ky
Well I took the carb and egr plate off today and found this.
Think the pitting/errosion on this is causing the problem? Would the hole in the intake for the egr being clogged up from crud cause any running problems? I have a good egr plate from a 79 bronco could I use that one on the 302?
I looked for other vac leaks and could not find any. Would it be worth the time to take all the emissions stuff off and see if that fixes it? I would like to keep everything on though.
If all this fails Im exchanging carbs for another just to see if that helps.
Think the pitting/errosion on this is causing the problem? Would the hole in the intake for the egr being clogged up from crud cause any running problems? I have a good egr plate from a 79 bronco could I use that one on the 302?
I looked for other vac leaks and could not find any. Would it be worth the time to take all the emissions stuff off and see if that fixes it? I would like to keep everything on though.
If all this fails Im exchanging carbs for another just to see if that helps.
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From: Wingo, Ky
Can somebody tell me if I can use the egr plate off any other truck with a two-barrel? I've looked over everything else again, still cant find anything other than the egr plate kind of corroded and the hole in the intake stoped up that goes to egr.
Only other thing I know to do is check timing and maybe change out carbs again.
Only other thing I know to do is check timing and maybe change out carbs again.
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From: Wingo, Ky
The hole in the egr plate or the hole in the manifold? The hole(that lines up with hole in egr plate) in the manifold is stopped up, does that matter? By the pic the egr plate I have now is not usable? Which I kind of thought it wasent.