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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 05:38 PM
  #1  
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Few questions

1: Yesterday I had a major fuel leak on the truck. My fuel bowl gasket crapped itself as I was pulling into the parking lot at work. There was a constant stream of fuel onto the ground. Got it fixed up, but on the way home yesterday I noticed the oil pressure gauge was sitting on dead nuts bottom and then jumping around a bit.

So the question is this: Do you guys think that it ruined the oil pressure sensor or am I actually having an issue with oil pressure?

2: My AC compressor is kicking on and off when I have the AC on. I can hear it click on and off. I was talking to Nick at RRE and he thought it was an issue of it being low on refrigerant. So my question is this: Do you guys agree with that diagnosis, what pressure is the system supposed to be at, and where is the proper place to add it in. I know I can get a can of R134A at AutoZoo or whatever auto parts place.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 07:04 PM
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Pete I dont think that it would have ruined the sensor, there is a chance that it might have, but I would try taking off the connector and blowing both the sensor and the connector out with air.

Your a/c comp SHOULD kick on and off when the ac is on. It works just like an air compressor, b/c thats pretty much all it is. It operates between a cut in and cut out pressure. I wouldnt be worried about being low on r134a unless its not getting as cold as it used to, or only is cold for a little bit and then gets warmer.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 07:09 PM
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If there was no oil pressure Pete the truck would die and not start back up.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 07:23 PM
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It's the sensor......
 
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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 07:36 PM
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Thank you. And Cory I wouldn't think twice about it except that I can set the blower to the highest setting on Max AC and still be sweating. That ought to freeze me out of the cab. Vent air is just as cold as the AC at this point.

And thanks for the input on the oil issue, guys. I kinda figured that it wasn't a major issue, but I just wanted to check because an ounce of prevention is worth a few years of me doing this: while paying off a new engine.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 07:41 PM
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if you a/c clutch is cycling fairly fast you probly do need refrigerant

At 90 degrees ambient, for R134a systems, look for about 200- 220 Pressures on the high side and about 25-30 Pressures on the low side at idle, and at 1,500 RPM look for about 220- 230 Pressures on the high side and about 20-27 Pressures on the low side.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by rbaker6336
if you a/c clutch is cycling fairly fast you probly do need refrigerant

At 90 degrees ambient, for R134a systems, look for about 200- 220 Pressures on the high side and about 25-30 Pressures on the low side at idle, and at 1,500 RPM look for about 220- 230 Pressures on the high side and about 20-27 Pressures on the low side.
Thanks very much, Ray.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 08:33 PM
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Pete,now might be a good time to do the cold A/C mod!
 
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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 08:54 PM
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Pete, if the freon is low, it had to go somewhere. The proper way to do it would be to have someone evacuate the system and then charge it back up to the proper level and see how it performs. They should also do a leak check to try and find the source of the leak. If the amount of freon taken out is real close to the right level, chances are the compressor pressures have equalized and its time for a new one.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by nissandoc
Pete, if the freon is low, it had to go somewhere. The proper way to do it would be to have someone evacuate the system and then charge it back up to the proper level and see how it performs. They should also do a leak check to try and find the source of the leak. If the amount of freon taken out is real close to the right level, chances are the compressor pressures have equalized and its time for a new one.
Darrel while that may be the proper way it's also a much more expensive way. I know that technically you ought to fix it before refilling it, but it's just not in the cards expense-wise.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by nissandoc
Pete, if the freon is low, it had to go somewhere. The proper way to do it would be to have someone evacuate the system and then charge it back up to the proper level and see how it performs. They should also do a leak check to try and find the source of the leak. If the amount of freon taken out is real close to the right level, chances are the compressor pressures have equalized and its time for a new one.
That is the way the dealer done mine in '01 when it was under warrantee since it has lost about a pound
Petes may have leaked down in 10 years which is normal and just need a little refrigerant
It really should be leak tested
If he does not have them I would invest in a set of guages to check pressures with,not just add a can
 
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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 09:37 PM
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From: North Cackalacky
Originally Posted by 7.3 Rocket
Darrel while that may be the proper way it's also a much more expensive way. I know that technically you ought to fix it before refilling it, but it's just not in the cards expense-wise.
Pete, do this, inspect the system yourself, look at the condensor, lines, compressor, accumulator. What you are looking for is oily residue on any of the components, just make sure if you find some that it didnt come from another source. there is oil that runs through them system with the freon. If it leaks, the oil comes out also. If you dont find any, go get you a couple cans at the parts store and ask them if they have the dye to add to the system. If so, and it can be injected through the schrader valve, pick up some of that too, you'll only need a couple of ounces of dye. Put the dye in first then chase it with the freon. Its better to add it while the engine is running and ac on, tap into the low (suction) side and let'r rip. Personly, If I were doing it this way I would add one can and then check the vent temps and see if its getting any better. Next can only add half and then recheck. You dont want too much in there. Get you a thermometer and stick in the center vent to monitor the temps. 45-50 is plenty cold enough but can get lower. If the system starts cooling again and does ok for a while then starts warming back up, you can use a black light to look over the system for leaks and the dye will glow(like glow-in-the-dark) if there is a leak.
 

Last edited by nissandoc; Aug 15, 2009 at 09:38 PM. Reason: duh
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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by rbaker6336
If he does not have them I would invest in a set of guages to check pressures with,not just add a can
The topic of AC cooling comes up regularly, and of course comes a recommendation to check pressures, etc.

I don't have a CLUE how to do this, what specific/specialty tools I'll need, etc. Because this past week here in MD, it was 90*+, and 70% humidity. Next week will be worse. And my AC's performance SUCKS, so I roast. Yes, I have a CrewCab so bigger space to cool. But could someone please do some type of write up on this, in detail?
 
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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 09:51 PM
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From: North Cackalacky
Brendan, you'll need a set of ac guages. If you know anyone in the heat/ac line of work they may be able to help you out if they have the R-134 connectors. If not you'll have to buy a set or take it to someone that has an ac machine. Check Habour Freight, even a cheap set will work fine considering how many times you may use them.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 10:16 PM
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A little reading for you.The first is just general not the correct way.I don't recomend any a/c service without proper guages

http://www.aa1car.com/library/ac_recharging.htm
http://www.aircondition.com/wwwboard/current/44954.html
http://www.aa1car.com/library/macs_s...procedures.pdf
 
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