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Well i bought me some gauges. EGT, BOOST, Transtemp ISSPro brand from DieselManor. Got them installed and after about 1000 miles the trans temp gauge started having a little "seizure" and quivering. Everyone here suggested I replace the computer box under the dash. Called Diesel Manor they agreed.
Sent me a refurbished unit, placed it into service. After temps of 130 it would max out at 280 and bounce between 280 and 190 and not stop until the temp was cool enough not to register (like the next day). If I would talk on my CB though, it would "reset" the gauge so to speak and it would seem to read what should be the correct temps for several miles and then it would screw up.
Called DieselManor, they sent an entire new setup. Gauge, wiring, ends, probe thing, directions, etc. Put that into service and drove about 1100 miles for vacation read perfectly. Talked on the CB on the interstate and didn't notice any problems.
Yesterday hooked onto the RV for a 40 mile tow to the camp site, got about 20 miles from the house with temps about 180 and then BOOM maxed out at 280. Picked up the CB mike it would go back to about 180 (which should be about right it was around 90 degree's out side in the aftrenoon) and work for a little while. If I would talk again it would mess up, talk again, perfect.
So this morning I drove around empty, 4 miles and it pegged out and won't come down unless I transmit on the CB.
Oh and by the way....I put in two different CB's, 3 different antenna's, two power sources, and a boat battery sitting in the back set with aligator clips to power the CB jsut to make sure it wasn't the truck. All made no difference.
I was having similar problems with my Isspro EV tranny temp gauge. I was telling Clay down at RRE and he suggested going to the EV2's which I did. If I were you, I would talk with Diesel Manor about replacing it with the EV2 version. It doesn't have that amplifier box so I doubt the CB will effect it in any way. The EV2's look a little different but it will be close enough that most people won't notice unless you point it out to them.
Are these those "one-wire" gauges with the "smart box" that connects to all the sensors then puts the data out to the gauges on a buss? I guess I know to stay away from those!! I have radios in my truck that put out a lot more than a CB, so I would guess it would be resetting like mad... LOL...
My EGT gauge quivers a little when I talk on one particular band, but it's livable for now. I'd say unload those and go with the standard type -- I've had my DiPricols for over 2 years, and only that one little minor issue that doesn't really bother me that much.
No the ones he is talking about are the original EV's. They have an amplifier box on the two temp gauges. THe ones I just got from Clay are the EV2's. The one's that you are talking about are the Performax's. They have the brain box then a one wire hook up and the brain can tell which gauge it is. It then will send the appropriate signal for the parameters that the specific gauge needs to read and indicate whatever function the gauge is for.
I was having similar problems with my Isspro EV tranny temp gauge. I was telling Clay down at RRE and he suggested going to the EV2's which I did. If I were you, I would talk with Diesel Manor about replacing it with the EV2 version. It doesn't have that amplifier box so I doubt the CB will effect it in any way. The EV2's look a little different but it will be close enough that most people won't notice unless you point it out to them.
Interesting....
I shall inquire on the EV2 when I call on Monday. I am sorry that you had the same issue but I am glad that someone else besides me did!!
After some searching I found mine at Gosperformance.com. Tried to use a sponsor here, but no one could get them. Something bout production problems back when I was looking.
Just bought the trans and boost white dipricol optix for less than 100 shipped...
Just to throw this out there, me personally never had any problems although the trans sender problems I've heard of. Joe mentioned the CB's and electronics that could interfer with the operation of the trans sender box. I had a problem when I keyed up my mic riding down the road, my truck would cut out, shut off, reason, my antenna wire was to close to my DP cable and chip. Diane confirmed this with me and I moved the antenna wire far apart from the chip and everything worked fine. Where's your antenna routed thru, anywhere close to those sender boxes, give a look.
Just to throw this out there, me personally never had any problems although the trans sender problems I've heard of. Joe mentioned the CB's and electronics that could interfer with the operation of the trans sender box. I had a problem when I keyed up my mic riding down the road, my truck would cut out, shut off, reason, my antenna wire was to close to my DP cable and chip. Diane confirmed this with me and I moved the antenna wire far apart from the chip and everything worked fine. Where's your antenna routed thru, anywhere close to those sender boxes, give a look.
Off the top of my head, here is how the antenna run.
It starts off at the top corner of the rear glass (it is a glass through antenna) and the cord goes down along the rear seat belt and then goes under the plastic covers under the door jam and runs up to and comes out at the emergency brake and then goes along the metal rail that holds the bottom of the dash over to the CB.
Radio is mounted directly under that little storage hole that would be to your right if you are the driver.
Also for what its worth, I have even put a mag mount antenna on the radio at the time I was using the extra boat battery sitting in the floorboard to power the radio and it didn't seem to make any difference with that.
So where did YOU mount your radio at? Or how did you resolve the issue with cord placement?
I understand, Andrew. But I have an Amateur Radio license, and am allowed far more power than a 4W CB. Just my radio puts out 100W on HF, 50W on VHF, and 35W on UHF. I have some issues on VHF, but like I mentioned nothing serious. I do have amps for each of those bands as well: 500+W on HF, 160W on VHF, and 100W on UHF. There are some steps I could take, but it just has been such a minor issue so far, it hasn't been worth any effort to go after it. I currently do not have any of those amps in the truck, so once I do put them in, I may have to take steps to clean things up. We'll see...
Sorry for the OT here. I think you're on the right track to solving your issue. I think the antenna running by the PCM and/or near the gauge wiring is the problem. You might try running a second antenna a different way just to see if it makes a difference.
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