I recently bought a CPS off Ebay for an experiment. It is for the 94-97 engine and has the following numbers: On the plastic bag is: Motorcraft DU-87. F4TZ-12K073-C. Moulded into the plastic housing is: 1876736C91. Hand marked with dots is what I think is a date code: 7K06. The plastic is very dark grey and the measurement from the mounting flange to the end of the sensor is about 1.142. The connector pins are gold-colored, but usually OBS pins are tin plated.

Has anyone tried this unit in the 99-03 engines? I was expecting this to be a black one by the part number. Apparently Ford changed the unit without changing the part number. I was going to try it in my 2001 7.3L to see if it was a viable alternative to the dreaded grey CPS. Other than tin- vs. gold-plated pins, I am not sure of any differences.

Anyway, has anyone done a cylinder contribution test with this CPS. I am wondering if it has the same uneven firing as the F7TZ12K073-B/1876735C91 grey CPS?

Thanks.

 

I guess we're waiting on you to try it and tell us what you notice. This keeps coming up, and no one seems to have a good answer.

 

Guess it looks like I'll have to be the experimenter.

By the way, the plastic housing is so dark grey that it looks black.

 

Has anyone done this yet? I'm curious since my truck is acting up and it isn't a compression or injector issue. Will that CPS work better than the ford recall CPS, or are they the same?

 

Anyone running this cps mentioned above? I was gonna go to international and buy one tonight since I can't find a black one new. I have the grey one causing a miss right now and give a #8 injector fault. I was gonna avoid the blue one because it sounds like it retards the timing and it screws with some DP tuners.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

Uh-oh, here we go with the blue CPS retards/advances timing arguments!

 

At least it's Friday night, so if you didn't have any entertainment lined up beforehand, well here you go! You could always start a gas vs. diesel thread too... hahaha

JockD - no offense meant. If you do try it, please let us know your results. If you have access to AE some pre/post numbers would be stunning!

 

Thanks for the sweet response. That's the exact info I was looking for.

Just asking for a little input. Funny, I didn't ask anything about the blue CPS.......... I've scoured the threads already and have not found the original question addressed, so I thought I'd ask also.

 

I believe this question has been posed several times... probably in other threads not originally about the CPS... but never answered. Any chance you'll be the one to give us the goods? Worst case scenario is that the CPS is a bit too short, and signal will be weak causing some misfires. Pretty much what you have now. I think you'd need tuning software (PHP's Minotaur comes to mind) to check timing, but maybe the AE can capture that info as well?

 

Well, I put it in sometime in late April. I don't have AE or any way to do a cylinder contribution test, but I notice NO difference between it and the black one that was in there. BTW, the black one rides around in the cab now, just in case, along with the 10mm socket, etc.

I guess it has been in there long enough to show up any design problems, and of course it hasn't failed yet!

 

Dude, lighten up.

To answer your question, no, I have never ran an OBS CPS in my truck. I've never ran the new gray either. I am currently running a black and I have another black as a spare.

In regards to the blue, the only reason I mentioned it is because you did and I thought it was funny. You weren't here for the blue/black CPS wars a couple of years ago. It was something else. Anyway, just to keep this technical, I have ran a blue also. No problems, even with my tuner.

 

BTW, I think the OBS unit I installed may have the tin-plated contacts. The newer units all have gold-plated contacts. I used dielectric grease on the contact pins to prevent corrosion.

The old black CPS was hard to get out without breaking it, but I was successful. Apparently, someone had put it in with little or no lubrication and the O-ring stuck to the front housing bore. Use a good grease or oil on the new one when installing it.

 

You are correct on the pins. Even with the grease, I'd keep an eye on it.