Either drop or go 4x4
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
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From: Maryville
Either drop or go 4x4
OK, I beams are impossible to find drop kits for, the one company I once saw made tubing replacement beam drop kits for the trucks, stupid idea that resulted in many trucks with bent beams. I want to lower my 99 E-350, it sets up too high, no I'm not going to get smaller tires to do it either, since that will not only look stupid but not be the correct load range. I heard once that big truck shops could bend the beams to correct camber issues, the ball joints have inserts that allow for adjustment to correct camber to an extent. What I would need it shorter coil springs, I'd like to loose 2", pretty sure the camber could be corrected for that small amount.
Now if I can't get it down, I have been considering finding a TTB from a 3/4 ton 95 F-250, have wondered if the pivot and coil bucket were similar to the Econoline I-beams. Yes solid axle swaps are common, but require the vehicle to sit up higher than the 2wd version to clear the axle, I can't afford adding height.
Now if I can't get it down, I have been considering finding a TTB from a 3/4 ton 95 F-250, have wondered if the pivot and coil bucket were similar to the Econoline I-beams. Yes solid axle swaps are common, but require the vehicle to sit up higher than the 2wd version to clear the axle, I can't afford adding height.
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
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From: Maryville
Obviously no one knows, so leaves me exactly where I started, can't drop it and if I want to put a TTB in it, I'll have to measure it all out myself, no one else has thought of it.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2006
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I'm going to lower the front of my '94 e-150 van (180,000 miles) as I'm rebuilding the complete front end soon.
I bought HD front coil springs and I'm going to place one at a time into my hyd. press, compress the springs 1" and then heat up the top coil and let it cool until the spring slides out (-1").
Should drop the front at lest 1" and then use the truck lowered shackels.
You could lower the vans if you cut the spring / shock mounts off and space them up with 2" flat steel bar to raise the top mounts to lower the front too.
Or cut the mounts leaving 2" up from the chassis and then find another van chassis and cut that one flush. Then weld the 2x together to raise the mounts but lower the front.....
JM
I bought HD front coil springs and I'm going to place one at a time into my hyd. press, compress the springs 1" and then heat up the top coil and let it cool until the spring slides out (-1").
Should drop the front at lest 1" and then use the truck lowered shackels.
You could lower the vans if you cut the spring / shock mounts off and space them up with 2" flat steel bar to raise the top mounts to lower the front too.
Or cut the mounts leaving 2" up from the chassis and then find another van chassis and cut that one flush. Then weld the 2x together to raise the mounts but lower the front.....
JM
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
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From: Maryville
Heating coils is not the answer, ruins the ride and handling, need to get a spring shop to make you some, those shops closed around here. You'll find lowering a bit more than coils, you have to correct the camber created by the beams riding higher and the travel loss between beam and frame, you'll wind up bottoming out more often. I wish there were drop spindles like offered for Dodge and Chevy, but the Econolines seem to be overlooked.
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Joined: Aug 2009
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This would be what you're looking for:
http://www.airbagit.com/product-p/ibe-fo07xx-van.htm
I am planning on using the model they have for my E-150. I spoke with a sales rep and was told the i-beams alone will lower the front end 3". There is a shackle/hanger kit that lowers the rear a total of 4". I haven't found any other lowering parts for the van.
I hope this helps.
http://www.airbagit.com/product-p/ibe-fo07xx-van.htm
I am planning on using the model they have for my E-150. I spoke with a sales rep and was told the i-beams alone will lower the front end 3". There is a shackle/hanger kit that lowers the rear a total of 4". I haven't found any other lowering parts for the van.
I hope this helps.
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
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From: Maryville
That's what I'd do if I had the cash for sure, factory beams will not go low without contacting the frame rails, I know, I've measured.
The rear is easier to get down with shackles, they'll get you 2", pull a leaf and you can get another 1", but never remove more than one leaf or serious handling issues will arise. I like the rake look, so 3" in the front and 2" in the rear looks wicked, hot rod stance, the rear of vans and/or trucks usually have the rear up a little higher.
The rear is easier to get down with shackles, they'll get you 2", pull a leaf and you can get another 1", but never remove more than one leaf or serious handling issues will arise. I like the rake look, so 3" in the front and 2" in the rear looks wicked, hot rod stance, the rear of vans and/or trucks usually have the rear up a little higher.
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
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From: Maryville
Shackles are good for 2", but more will be springs then a "C" notch in the frame to keep you from bottoming the axle into the frame. Boy the beams look good, but the claims of being stronger than factory due to being thin stamped steal is BS, the Ford I beams are cast iron, not stamped steel. My van sits high, it's a 1 ton, now I'm curious the tire size I can run, not many offered in load E, can I retain stock 245/75 R16 without hitting the fenders. I gotta choke down the cost now.
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Joined: Feb 2006
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If you lower a car, you need to have much stiffer springs too!
Heating the springs can work but you can't heat them while on the vehicle and drop the car. My stated way the springs will have a control of the compression and I'm only going to heat up the top of the springs...not the middles.
Plus I'll be annealing the coil springs after they cool too.
If the shocks bottom out, then I'll find a little shorter ones.
I would rather like to add to the top mounts to move them upward but I just don't have the time to spend doing it that way.
Heating the springs can work but you can't heat them while on the vehicle and drop the car. My stated way the springs will have a control of the compression and I'm only going to heat up the top of the springs...not the middles.
Plus I'll be annealing the coil springs after they cool too.
If the shocks bottom out, then I'll find a little shorter ones.
I would rather like to add to the top mounts to move them upward but I just don't have the time to spend doing it that way.
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