Twin I Beam Pivot Modification
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: San Jose Ca.
Twin I Beam Pivot Modification
So I am back on the truck and getting all the chassis mods finished. Truck will be dropped on AIM I beams and flipped rear axle with a C-notch and boxed frame. Want get a little more drop in the front than the beams will allow. If I cut a coil out it will affect the camber. I am thinking I could move the I-beam pivot point 1"-1.5" further up into the mounting bracket to adjust the camber. Has anyone tried this?
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Santa Monica, CA
Hmmm...will the flipped rear axle be too much rear drop for the front beams? Just curious.
I have the DJM front/rear lowering kit I'm about to put on my '66 primarily because it's all bolt-on and I'm not ready to do any radical frame mods at this point. Since I replaced the original 352 with a fuel injected 5.0 I might get away with cutting a little out of the coil spring without affecting the camber much. We'll see....
I have the DJM front/rear lowering kit I'm about to put on my '66 primarily because it's all bolt-on and I'm not ready to do any radical frame mods at this point. Since I replaced the original 352 with a fuel injected 5.0 I might get away with cutting a little out of the coil spring without affecting the camber much. We'll see....
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: San Jose Ca.
Not a 100% set on the axle flip yet but have shackles as well so it's still up in the air (pun intended) All aluminum 4.6L DOHC goin in under the hood. I'll install the beams first and see where it sits at ride height then go from there. Just figured I would put the question out there. Garbz may know if this can be done.
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Joined: Mar 2011
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2 inch
Yes I raised the inner ibeam pivot points on my 65 f100 2".Then I put new coil spring on and cut them to reset the camber. There are a few things you have to do also. There is some metal on the inside of the axle mounting bracket you have to cut out. The mounting bracket is made of two parts that are riveted to the frame, they overlap but are not welded together so before I did any cutting I welded them together. Then I cut two slots in the crossmember so the axles would not hit in its up swing. then I removed the axle bump stops and the bracket that holds them. I have read that when the truck was new there was 4" of space between the axle and frame. The bump stop is 1 3/4" high so that means there was 2 1/4" clearance between the axle and the stop. I raised the axle 2" so I have 2" of space before the axle hits the frame. I have driven the truck for 2 months and it hasn't hit the frame yet. That is the reason I put new spring, old weak springs may not work as well. The truck drives and rides fine. If you PM me your cell phone number i can give you more details on what I did.
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Joined: Mar 2011
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lost
Yes I took pictures but were lost in computer virus. I was hoping to write a thread on it for others but with the lost pic i didn't. Its a cheap and ez way to get a little drop on your truck. I am retired so i have no problem with anyone sending me a pm for my phone number were i could talk them thought the job.
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: San Jose Ca.
Yes I raised the inner ibeam pivot points on my 65 f100 2".Then I put new coil spring on and cut them to reset the camber. There are a few things you have to do also. There is some metal on the inside of the axle mounting bracket you have to cut out. The mounting bracket is made of two parts that are riveted to the frame, they overlap but are not welded together so before I did any cutting I welded them together. Then I cut two slots in the crossmember so the axles would not hit in its up swing. then I removed the axle bump stops and the bracket that holds them. I have read that when the truck was new there was 4" of space between the axle and frame. The bump stop is 1 3/4" high so that means there was 2 1/4" clearance between the axle and the stop. I raised the axle 2" so I have 2" of space before the axle hits the frame. I have driven the truck for 2 months and it hasn't hit the frame yet. That is the reason I put new spring, old weak springs may not work as well. The truck drives and rides fine. If you PM me your cell phone number i can give you more details on what I did.
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I have the DJM front/rear lowering kit I'm about to put on my '66 primarily because it's all bolt-on and I'm not ready to do any radical frame mods at this point. Since I replaced the original 352 with a fuel injected 5.0 I might get away with cutting a little out of the coil spring without affecting the camber much. We'll see....
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More info
My66, That is great info and tells me what I was looking for. I have my frame upside down sitting on stands right now. I was thinking, I could remove the 2 rivets on each side that hold the horizontal bracket to the cross-member and slide it up into the vertical bracket. Drill new holes and bolt it down. by doing this I could put it back if I had a reason or need to. It's good to know you got 2" of drop doing it like this. I was thinking I could only get another 1" or so. Gonna look at it closer today. Thanks.
I didn't explain completely what i did. I did not raise the bracket, i drilled two new hole 2" higher on the bracket just above the old ones. That is why i had to cut some of the bracket away on the inside of the bracket, so the axle would go up high enough to get the bolt in the new holes. That is why i welded the two half's of the bracket together. If you later want to put it back stock you just move the axle to the old holes. Sorry for not explaining clearer. Like i stated PM me for my phone number and i will help you all i can.
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: San Jose Ca.
Here are a few more pics. Actually a very simple mod to do so far. I will need to clearance the cross member a little but that should be straight forward as well.
After removing the 2 rivets that hold the cross brace in place, clean the holes with a 1/2" drill bit and then utilizing the hole closest to the bottom of the crossmember as a pivot with a grade 8 half inch bolt.
After removing the 2 rivets that hold the cross brace in place, clean the holes with a 1/2" drill bit and then utilizing the hole closest to the bottom of the crossmember as a pivot with a grade 8 half inch bolt.
