2011 SD 6.7L crew cab 2WD 2" lift issues
#1
2011 SD 6.7L crew cab 2WD 2" lift issues
I've persued the forum for a thread that talked specifically on my issue and haven't found so I'm starting this thread. If there is one, please let me know and I apologize ahead of time for posting this.
I recently upgraded my 2011 F250 from the factory 18" wheels to the 2013 20" 8-spoke aluminum. With that, I also installed a 2" spacer kit with the bolt extension from FatBobs Garage. Upon installation, I knew I'd have some positive camber. I took the stock camber bushings (ground off the tab) and rotated them as far as I could to get some negative. The stocks are stamped ".125 - .500" so I took them both to the lowest side. That didn't get me much so when I took it to the alignment shop this morning, both myself and the manager knew we'd have to add a more aggressive camber bushing to achieve the spec camber.
Well, got a call later from the shop manager stating that when they try install a 2 1/4* bushing, the steering knuckle on the back side of the spindle is rubbing the I-beam. Manager said to be in spec, the truck "needs" a 2 3/4* bushing and with the rub, there's only 2 options. 1) Shave 1/4 or so off the back side of the spindle where it's rubbing against the I-beam... OR 2) find drop down brackets that will lower the I-beams where they hook into the the crossbeam under the engine.
I'm posting because I haven't seen anywhere on the web that a company makes a drop down bracket for these newer trucks. The 2" lift gives the 2WD truck a great stance but I can't have this positive camber that's eating up my outer edge of my tires much longer. I'll be removing the lift spacers tonite until I can find what I need. Of course, trucks still under warranty and grinding (cringe) on the spindle knuckle is not too much an option as far as I'm concerned.
And FYI, the stock shock, which is 10" comprsssed and 15" extended, is still installed but it needs a taller shock. I'm looking at ordering the KYB5439 for this app. It shows to be 11" comp' and 18" ext, with the correct mounts.
Please let me know if you have any experience with the suspension of the 2011 or newer trucks on this topic. Thanks in advance.
I recently upgraded my 2011 F250 from the factory 18" wheels to the 2013 20" 8-spoke aluminum. With that, I also installed a 2" spacer kit with the bolt extension from FatBobs Garage. Upon installation, I knew I'd have some positive camber. I took the stock camber bushings (ground off the tab) and rotated them as far as I could to get some negative. The stocks are stamped ".125 - .500" so I took them both to the lowest side. That didn't get me much so when I took it to the alignment shop this morning, both myself and the manager knew we'd have to add a more aggressive camber bushing to achieve the spec camber.
Well, got a call later from the shop manager stating that when they try install a 2 1/4* bushing, the steering knuckle on the back side of the spindle is rubbing the I-beam. Manager said to be in spec, the truck "needs" a 2 3/4* bushing and with the rub, there's only 2 options. 1) Shave 1/4 or so off the back side of the spindle where it's rubbing against the I-beam... OR 2) find drop down brackets that will lower the I-beams where they hook into the the crossbeam under the engine.
I'm posting because I haven't seen anywhere on the web that a company makes a drop down bracket for these newer trucks. The 2" lift gives the 2WD truck a great stance but I can't have this positive camber that's eating up my outer edge of my tires much longer. I'll be removing the lift spacers tonite until I can find what I need. Of course, trucks still under warranty and grinding (cringe) on the spindle knuckle is not too much an option as far as I'm concerned.
And FYI, the stock shock, which is 10" comprsssed and 15" extended, is still installed but it needs a taller shock. I'm looking at ordering the KYB5439 for this app. It shows to be 11" comp' and 18" ext, with the correct mounts.
Please let me know if you have any experience with the suspension of the 2011 or newer trucks on this topic. Thanks in advance.
#3
#4
SDScaler, thanks but are they doing 2" lifts on the 2011 or newer? I think the 2010 and prior 2WD's were a different set-up.
And for your 2nd response, I've called 8 companies and none have a clue as to what to do for the 2WD. The response form DayStar Tech Rep was that he'd not heard of any rubbing issues. Gggrrrr...
And for your 2nd response, I've called 8 companies and none have a clue as to what to do for the 2WD. The response form DayStar Tech Rep was that he'd not heard of any rubbing issues. Gggrrrr...
#6
The alignment shop manager says that the older ones weren't as beefy of a spindle at the knuckle. (I'm gonna research that) And...the I-beam wasn't as filled-in where it meets the spindle.
I'll try to get a pic of the area tonite and post to better clarify.
Thanks for the dialogue thus far!
I'll try to get a pic of the area tonite and post to better clarify.
Thanks for the dialogue thus far!
#7
The older SD's front I-beams were steel...these new ones (not sure when they started) are cast. They have a stamp on them that states "do not bend, heat or weld". There used to be a way guys would heat up the old style steel I-beams and bend them to get the lifts to work on the older trucks. These cast I-beams aren't as playful!!
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#8
Just thought Id resurrect an old thread..
Did you even get the issue straightened around? I bought a 2011 F250 2wd and am disappointed with how low it sits compared to my 09 with 5" blocks.The trailer hitch is so low on this one.
I was thinking about lifting the front 2" and the rear 4" to get it the stance of my old truck, which was about the same as a stock f350 4x4. But i may leave the front alone and just lift the rear 2 or 3 inches if it causes issues to lift the front.
Did you even get the issue straightened around? I bought a 2011 F250 2wd and am disappointed with how low it sits compared to my 09 with 5" blocks.The trailer hitch is so low on this one.
I was thinking about lifting the front 2" and the rear 4" to get it the stance of my old truck, which was about the same as a stock f350 4x4. But i may leave the front alone and just lift the rear 2 or 3 inches if it causes issues to lift the front.
#9
I am in the same situation and also a little disappointed with the stance of my 2014 cc 2wd. I went to the 4x4 shop yesterrday that my dealership recommended and they basically said that there wasn't anything that they could do as far as leveling or lifting. Honestly, I just want to level it out a little and maybe put an aftermarket wheel/tire combo. If either of you figure out how to do it, please come back and post your results.
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