There are so many rust inhibitors on the market now.Has anybody found a superior one and what seems to be everybodies favorite.

 

Actually thats a tough question. Depends on condition of your metal to start with. Clean, surface rust, pitting or major rust. It can involve a whole process. I would say POR-15 probably is used the most wide spread although there are many more.

 

POR 15 is great... What is the parts for the rust inhibitor. Are you talking undercarraige, or body prep before fresh paint.

For the Undercarriage, I just buy The industrial Rustoleum Black and do that ever few years... Make dure you got good ventilation or you will get a headacke that will stay for a day or so after your done.

To keep rust from spreading or getting worse, I buy Rust Converter... I brush it on liberally and it turns black sometimes a second coat is neccessary, then paint it. (Rustoleum) when I say Rustoleum, I use the brush aplication type in the silver can... The is the wheel wels ect when washing, if it starts to look dingy I touch it up with the spray can of equal texture Flat, gloss, ect..

For the body... If rust starts I imediatly put rust converter on it liberally to stop it, and take it to the body shop for repair at my convenience

That is one of the few products I buy at Autozone... Rust Converter

 

I first get off as much rust as possible with wire wheel or grinder. Then hit the steel with Picklex 20 if a car and Ospho if not before priming with an epoxy primer on a car. I rather not just put something like POR-15 over rust when I can do a better job by getting rid of it and having peace of mind.

 

First step is to remove as much rust as you can.
For frames and suspension parts I use POR15 (but I sandblast and clean the metal first)
For sheet metal, I grind it away. If I cant grind it away, then I cut it out and remove it. Rust is like cancer, and on sheet metal, once it starts, the only way to truley stop it is removal.
The other thing to look at is how did that part get rusty in the first place? Frames and suspention are easy to figure out. But when it comes to sheet metal, if you dont fix the problem first, it doesnt matter how you fix it, it will come back.

 

The Picklex 20 looks to be an interesting option.
But they keep mentioning "indoor' storage. How does it react to long term outdoor exposure?

Thanks,
Mike

 

Indoor storage means that the metal will be stored indoors for some time without any outer coatings or paint on it. No one would store bare metal, treated with Picklex 20, outdoors for any time frame and expect Mother nature not to go after it.

 

I did a test on a piece of scrap metal with Picklex. It sat outside overnite with a lite rain shower. Rusted the next day as if nothing had been applyed. To be honest, I believe wiping it down with WD-40 would do a better job. You would just have to make sure to wipe it back down with laquer thinner or acetone to remove it before painting. The only thing I use the remaining Picklex I have is to clean metal before welding. But, just my opinion.