Thanks for the TSB reference.

I went to the MobilOne and ChevronTexaco websites to try and see what the technical differences are between the fluids.


"dino" Mercon V
viscosity at 40 C = 40
viscosity at 100 C = 8.4
pour point = -44 F

"dino" DEXRON III/Mercon
viscosity at 40 C = 37.5
viscosity at 100 C = 7.5
pour point = -54 F

synthetic DEXRON III/Mercon
viscosity at 40 C = 35
viscosity at 100 C = 7.6
pour point = -65 F

It looks like the Mercon V is thicker. This could lead to problems at low temperatures and a fractional loss in gas mileage due to internal drag. Once again, it looks like the synthetic product has a real advantage in arctic conditions.

-Jim

 

 

Don't know if all brands are, but Castrol Mercon V says on the bottle: "part synthetic formulation offers exceptional low-temperature performance" and "meets more demanding Mercon V requirements".

MrBSS

 

>I'm going to continue using my best
>judgement and the best quality lubricants in them until
>someone can point out *exactly* how using a premium
>synthetic or dino ATF or 10W-30, 10W-40 grades of engine
>oil with the latest API reatings can harm my vehicles.

I agree with using a premium synthetic ATF.

Ford says to not use MERCON V in the E4OD or the 4R100. I know the transmission engineer that made that call. He was pressured to accept MERCON V, but has data showing why it should not be used, and data won!

MERCON and MERCON V are different types of ratings than the API ratings for motor oil. The transmission specs include performance specs for things that affect shifting, so using the proper fluid is especially critical.

There are several high quality synthetic ATFs on the market that are fine with the E4OD/4R100. Mobil 1 synthetic ATF has a MERCON rating. I've had very good experiences using that fluid.

Mark

 

Hey all,
I'm about to do a complete ATF change on my Expy with the E4OD and am trying to drain the torque converter too. I've heard there is a drain on it, but, How do I get to it? I've found a plug on the bottom, is this how you access it?
Thanks!

Tom

PS - going with AMSOIL!!

 

Look for a rubber plug on the bottom of the bellhousing. Remove it and keep it. Use a flashlight and bump the starter until you see a little 8 (or 10 mm) plug screwed into the torque converter. You'll almost never be able to bump the engine until its centered in the access hole, so use a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft pulley to turn the engine the last few degrees. Remove the drain plug. The hole is small so it'll take quite a while to drain the torque converter. It holds maybe a gallon and a half.

After draining, clean the hole and pipe plug with solvent and put some Locktite sealant on the plug. Do not overtighten it and strip the torque converter threads!!! Very firm, only. Maybe 10 ft lbs. Put the rubber plug back on the access hole.

An E4OD takes about 14 to 15 quarts if you drain the whole thing. Put in about 11 qts, cycle the shifter through the gears, maybe drive it a hundred feet- no more. Then carefully add a quart at a time, measuring after each one with the trans warm until it's between the dipstick marks. Do not overfill, if you do, you'll have to drain some out of the converter again (beats dropping the pan again).

Tip: Make sure you get the correct oil filter, the E4OD uses different ones, depending on 2WD or 4WD. They sometimes try selling me the wrong one without asking. Make sure to clean ALL the metal fuzzies and sludge out of the pan and off the magnet. The E4OD is a good tranny, but dirt particles are fatal to them. Be surgically clean about your work inside the thing.

Enjoy!

 

I too have been pondering this change. I run Mobil 1 Super Syn in the engine of my V-10. Yes I know it calls for 5W-20W, but Mobil 1 doesn't come in that weight. I am going to go to Royal Purple next time. But I'm curious what change there was, if any, with your change to Mobil 1 ATF ? Was there any ? Someone here said it firmed up his shifts, and just generally performed better. I would like it if that happened, but mostly just want the added protection that a synth gives, especially in the E4OD. I've heard so many horror stories about E4OD's. Although I've had 5 of them in different rigs, and NEVER had a problem. And I drove my rigs HARD. But I also treat them well with the best lubricants I can buy, and change them OFTEN. I've heard Ford recommends syth gear lube in the rear end if you're towing, and I do. Is this true ? Ken 1998 E-350 15 pass, V-10.

 

>I too have been pondering this change. I run Mobil 1 Super
>Syn in the engine of my V-10. Yes I know it calls for
>5W-20W, but Mobil 1 doesn't come in that weight. I am going
>to go to Royal Purple next time. But I'm curious what change
>there was, if any, with your change to Mobil 1 ATF ? Was
>there any ? Someone here said it firmed up his shifts, and
>just generally performed better

That would be me.

The last ATF change I did on my E4OD was to Red Line D4 ATF.
VASTLY improved shifting, firmer, less feeling of slippage both
empty or towing our horses or farm equipment, While I've been
very happy with Mobil 1 ATF over the years in several different vehicles,
it was only the Red Line that made the immediate difference it did.

I simply can't say other brands would do the same thing from my own experience.
I've heard great things about Royal Purple, but I can't personally vouch for it, I've
never used it. I've only used Motorcraft, Mobil 1 and Red Line ATFs in the E4OD,
and neither the Motorcraft or Mobil 1 made the difference the Red Line did.

> I would like it if that
>happened, but mostly just want the added protection that a
>synth gives, especially in the E4OD. I've heard so many
>horror stories about E4OD's. Although I've had 5 of them in
>different rigs, and NEVER had a problem.

The "problem" with the E4OD is they need proper maintenance.
They're a great HD tranny and can seemingly take outrageous HP or loads.
Ford has issued a TSB that says dirty, contaminated or burnt ATF will
seriously impact the life of the E4OD. They also need
to be kept scrupulously clean inside. Ford sells a retro-fit cartridge oil
filter for vehicles using the E4OD that bolts into the oil cooler return line.
My local dealer has them in stock. There is also an aftermarket company
that sells an adapter kit that uses a standard spin-on oil filter installed the same way.
I've got the P/N for these items at work, unfortunately I've been stuck at home
with a fractured arm the last few days and won't return until next week- so I
can't pass along the info right now.

>And I drove my rigs
>HARD. But I also treat them well with the best lubricants I
>can buy, and change them OFTEN.

Me, too.

>I've heard Ford recommends
>syth gear lube in the rear end if you're towing, and I do.
>Is this true ?

More than recommends, it's my understanding that Ford now uses synthetic
(or at least semi-synthetic) lube in the axles of
new trucks as factory fill. I'm using Red Line 80W-90 lube in my own F-250's
limited-slip axle, Mobil 1, Royal or any other synth should be fine in those pumpkins, too.
I use Mobil 1 10W-30 engine oil, because I've had good results from it over the
last 15 years, and have no reason to switch.(Or I've got a lot of inertia).

Good luck, Ken.

----------------------------------------------------------
'00 Focus ZTS DOHC- Stock
'00 F-150 4x4 5.4L- Stock
'96 F-250 4x2 7.5L- Modified- Home-brew REAL cold air intake w/ K&N filter,
modified advance curves, modded IAT sensor, Bosch Platinum plugs, 3" catalytic & Flowmaster 70,
L&L 4-tube equal length headers, modified MAF meter with ~25% more flow,
insulated air box and intake air pipes. 4.10 Stirling limited slip axle. Air-Lift suspension,
Michelin LTX M/S 265/75/16 LRE tires.
Red Line D4 ATF and axle lube, Mobil 1 10W-30 engine oil. 10-12.8 MPG
It's fast! It pulls!