Synthetic ATF
Almost every auto trans I've ever serviced that's been driven for a while has degraded, off-odor, off-color, oxidized or burnt ATF, especially if the vehicle has been used for towing and even where there might be an oil cooler. And EVERY power steering unit I've ever seen has had burnt, degraded ATF in it and usually making noise. Sometimes it doesn't take very many hard miles at all. It can't be lubing efficiently.
Obviously, standard dino ATF is being pushed to it's technical limits in many vehicles. It's burning up and degrading, usually well before the recommended change intervals. Sure, you can change it more frequently, but it's still being stressed to the max, and there's nothing I can think of that's more fun on a weekend than dropping the tranny oil pan to do an oil change.
There's nothing I'd like more than to spend $2,000+ on replacing an E4OD transmission.
Ford either is, or has gone to synthetic ATFs in their newest vehicles like the Focus. Since switching to (brand X) synthetic ATF in a truck frequently used for heavy towing, I've noticed no degradation, no 'off-color' or smells. It's still clean and red. The trans shifts deciseively instead of mushy, something I immediately noticed after making the switch.
If use in an engine is debatable, there shouldn't be any question that synthetic ATF is to be greatly preferred in power steering units and automatic transmissions. Did it cost a lot for 15 quarts of the stuff? (including draining the torque converter)
Yup. About what taking the truck to a dealer and having them do a change would have cost.
Axle lubes are a different story. You don't need very much, so cost is not a big issue. I think the factory fill for many drive axles is now synthetic anyway. Two warnings from personal experience. 1) It will leak out of an older pinion seal that does not leak on dino. 2) Even if the label says that it is good for limited-slip units, you must use the friction-modifer additive. The synthetic reduces friction to the point of causing chatter in the track-lok unit. The Valvoline blend seems to work ok on my older vehicles.
A good MERCON fluid is what E4ODs should run. Mobil 1 is the best MERCON fluid (In my not so humble opinion), but any MERCON is better in an E4OD than any MERCON V.
Mark
An interesting side note from my owners manual. The power steering fluid called out is type F ATF, not Mercon.
Also, synthetic axle fluid is required for the 4.10 ratio 8.8 and optional for the others.
My question to you: does anyone here know why the shop would say this? I don't have enough knowledge of transmissions to justify not using synthetics. My first guess would be that the synthetic fluids are better, especially when using the truck for towing.
Also, has anyone run synthetics in the tranny, and what were your findings?
Aaron
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The long life of my trannys might be more because of the cooler than it is because of the fluid - I really have no idea. I change ATF every 50,000 miles on average, unless I do something stupid and have to change it before then. Since I do stupid things on a regular basis, the true change interval is probably closer to 40,000 miles.

As far as problems running synthetic, I haven't had any (yet?) - but if I had a new truck with an auto tranny I'd probably do a lot of research before switching it over. However, I put oversized tranny coolers on everything - the synthetic ATF might be questionable, but I think most tranny shops will agree that "cooler is better".
LK
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
>say this?
Because of the myth that synthetics are "slipperier" than conventional fluids. That isn't true.
>Also, has anyone run synthetics in the tranny, and what were
>your findings?
I was involved with the transmission for a 650 HP off road racer a couple years ago. They used an E4OD and Mobil 1 synthetic. The fluid saved the transmission from destruction a few times and saved a win. I think it is the best fluid that you can run in an E4OD.
Mark
I'm currently using Red Line D4 ATF in my '96 F-260's E4OD tranny. It's an approved replacement for Mercon ATF. I put it in when the tranny had more than 100K miles on it.
Immediately after putting it in I noticed that shifting turned from mush to very firm. It became very decisive, at less then full throttle it really bangs the gears as I think an auto trans should, even at full throttle or when tugging a big horse trailer it shifts much more firmly. The difference was like night and day, like installing a shift kit. No kidding, no exaggeration. Huge difference that I didn't expect.
As for the long term benefits, I can't say, other than I used Mobil 1 ATF in the transfer case of my old '87 Ranger since almost new and after well over 150,000 miles of use, no noise, no leaks, no problems with it, either. But that's an apples-n-oranges comparison.
The downside is the cost, at $7 bucks a quart for 15 quarts the Red Line ATF made for a pricey tranny oil change. I'm hoping I can keep it in there longer than the other ATF before it starts to go brown or degrade- that recovers some of the cost, too. So to answer your question, yes, I use it, and yes, so far, so good.
(Disclaimer: I have no financial interest whatsoever in Red Line or Mobil Oil}
Oh well - to avoid getting in trouble I will stay away from the pro-synthetic commentary and focus on the misinformation jimandmandy was handed.
My proposed question (to anyone - I don't mean to pick on jimandmandy because that wasn't his/her (?) claim): Have you ever changed out an auto-tranny's ATF and filter and actually put the 'cheap' stuff in there? I have, and I noticed the degradation of the performance of the tranny immediately. I think it was Amoco ATF that we put in there - what utter crappola.
I feel this Amoco ATF is very representitive of the cheap (and perhaps even better than the no-name very cheap) ATF's out there, and I would never advise someone who cared about their vehicle enough to get the ATF changed to use anything like it.
"Cheap stuff & change it more often"?? not in my +$1000 transmission, buddy.
Now for rebuilts.... you may be facing the dilemma that new engines face - the less protective (yes, I believe synthetic ATF is more slippery) regular ATF may allow the new parts to wear their surfaces together much like newly rebuilt engines stil use regular dinosaur oil to allow the piston rings to seat. After a break-in period of about 3000 to 7000 miles the change to synthetic (in engines) is alright, so I imagine the call to not use syn-ATF in rebuilt trannies is for the same reason. Give the parts time to mesh to each other, then protect them from further wear with synthetics.
This my first automatic Ford. The others were manual. We have had many Hydramatics, Powerglides and Torquflites over the years and never had so much confusion over ATF. You could put in any brand of type A, and later, Dexron, and there was no difference in performance.
Since Valvoline is a commonly available and generally respected name brand, I thought it would be a safe choice. Since Mercon V did not even exist in 1994, the owner's manual just says Mercon. Can someone please point me to a Ford site or TSB that prohibits Mercon V in an E4OD, or a direct quote from an owner's manual giving the model year.
It will be a while before my first change since the rebuild, but I don't want to make a mistake with it. Thanks for your input.
-Jim
It calls for MERCON in all E4OD and 4R100 transmissions. It also states that using MERCON V or a dual rated MERCON/MERCON V may cause transmission damage in a transmission that requires MERCON fluid.
Mark
Here's a quote from an email from Ford: "..5W-20 oil provides optimum fuel economy and durability performance meeting all requirements for your vehicle's engine. If you choose to use 5W-30 engine oil (the grade of oil I asked about), and a defect should occur as a result of the oil, then the cost for that particular repair will not be covered under your manufacturer's warranty..."
There has got to be some common sense applied here. I have a feeling there is no technical reason whatsoever for many of the stipulations being made by Ford other than those written by their attorneys and other corporate weasels, not their engineers. To each his own, but as long as my vehicles are out of warranty, I'm going to continue using my best judgement and the best quality lubricants in them until someone can point out *exactly* how using a premium synthetic or dino ATF or 10W-30, 10W-40 grades of engine oil with the latest API reatings can harm my vehicles.







