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im doing the egr delete on my 05 6.0 and my question is should I weld the egr valve shut? disconnect it? or should I just leave it alone like if it still has the egr cooler?
IMO, if you have welded up or blocked off the port where the EGR gasses used to enter the intake, then leave the valve in place.. At least it'll look kinda right if anyone needs to look.. my $.02
I would not do the EGR delete. I would leave the EGR cooler in place, remove the EGR valve and epoxy it shut.
Just clean the end valve and seat and mix up and apply some JB Weld epoxy to the valve face and seat. Let the valve close on the seat and let the JB Weld dry. Install the EGR valve and unplug it. With the valve epoxyed shut and unpluged, there will be no exhaust gas flow through the EGR system.
Also, in the future if TX changes their emission laws, all you have to do is remove the EGR valve, heat the JB Weld with a torch or heat gun until the valve pops off the seat and then remove the remaining JB Weld with a wire wheel. Reinstall the EGR valve, plug it in and your EGR system should work like new. This is an easier alternative to welding the EGR valve as welding eliminates the valve from ever operating again.
so whats the reason behind JB welding it if there is no egr cooler anymore??..will i have problems if i leave the egr valve function if the egr cooler is no longer there??
so whats the reason behind JB welding it if there is no egr cooler anymore??..will i have problems if i leave the egr valve function if the egr cooler is no longer there??
So I assume you have already installed the EGR delete kit? If so, the EGR valve requires no modification.
If you have not installed the EGR delete kit, you can save yourself the kit expense. Just JB Weld the valve shut, as I described above, and you have done the same thing as installing the EGR delete kit.
Just be aware that you can still get combustion gasses in the coolant and coolant out the exhaust from a failed EGR cooler if you only weld the EGR valve closed.
i did a homemade egr delete cost me about $20 total, super cheap since i reused the gaskets everything working great so far...NO MORE PUKING....and i did leave the egr valve functioning and engine sounds quieter
I'm just curious why more people don't just install the "sneaky up-pipe" that blocks off the flow to the EGR cooler, thus eliminating the hot flow of gases that cause all the problems in the first place? This is the route I'm planning on using.
I'm just curious why more people don't just install the "sneaky up-pipe" that blocks off the flow to the EGR cooler, thus eliminating the hot flow of gases that cause all the problems in the first place? This is the route I'm planning on using.
Because a leaky EGR cooler w/ the EGR valve in place could still allow coolant into the intake. Most say this is unlikely, but I certainly would not trust a stock EGR valve that was merely electrically disconnected as my only means to prevent that. Also, you may say that "with no hot gasses in the EGR cooler, then why would it fail?". Good question - it may never fail, but who knows how close these coolers are to failure after 10k miles, 50k miles, 100k miles, etc. It is all about being 100% sure that you will not let coolant into the intake. That CAN cause serious damage!
That is the idea. Also, that is why many folks weld up the inlet and the outlet of the EGR cooler (exhaust gas side). It is ALMOST a sure thing (anything can break).
Many people say that a closed EGR valve will not be forced open. I am not so convinced. The spring is not that strong and pressure imbalances do occur.