I have a '71 F100 with a 390. I just changed the valve stem seals because it was smoking a bit on start-up. Under the valve covers there was a little bit of sludge and quite a bit of carbon build-up. There was even an oil drain passage clogged on one side, which I cleared. Before putting it back together I shop vacced the worst of the flaky carbon pieces.

My question is: Has anybody flushed there engine oil system with flushing additive (that five minute stuff)? How did it work for you? Where there any bad side effects? What are the pros and cons of using it?

Thanks,

 

I would be afraid of stirring up too much of that stuff at once. Marvel Mystery oil actually works good for this. Wait untill about 500 miles from an oil change and add a quart to the oil. It will thin it out so in hot weather I would be running a heavy oil. You can also pour it down the carb while reving the engine to clean up the valves. Just a little at a time, don't hydralic lock the engine.
I actually had good luck cleaning up an engine this way by changing the oil every 1,000 mile for a few times and using 40w with a quart of Marvel. Jou have to change the filter each time and expensive oil isn't going to be in there long enough to matter much.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 11-Jul-02 AT 08:48 PM (EST)]I have seen the oil drained and the engine was refilled with diesel and allowed to idle for 1/2 an hour. This was on a engine that had massive carbon build up. Seemed to work pretty good.

 

Yeah,

essentily that five minute stuff is diesel fuel if really want to get down too it.

FYI: I've been told that you can dump a qt of atf (mainly because it is highly detergent, i'd prolly only try this on a older motor.) in before your oil change and idle for 2-5 mins and then dump.....I dunno if that's such a hot idea or not..I've never tried it.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 22-Jul-02 AT 02:01 PM (EST)]Below is a quote from the Motor Oil Bible (it isn't pros & cons and is related to flushing before switching to syn oil, but still good general info on flushing that may be helpful):

"However, if your vehicle is over 20,000 miles and you're switching from petroleum to synthetic oil, I would first recommend that you perform an engine flush to remove any possible deposits within the engine. This will minimize the risk of oil consumption after you make the switch which which should help you avoid the possiblility of elevated oil consumption. There is a catch, though. Most engine flush products on the market are comprised of very harsh chemicals that have the potential to actually damage engine components.

For instance, many engine flush products contain kerosene. I don't know about you, but I wouldn't pour kerosene into my engine regardless of who told me to. And guess what? My opinion doesn't magically change when that kerosene is repackaged in impressive looking engine flush bottle that says it'll spit shine my engine and have it running like new. It's still kerosene.

Just be careful what you use. If the bottle or can says anything about a chemical that you wouldn't pour into your engine from any other container, don't buy it. There are at least two engine flush products available that contain no kerosene. One is manufacturered by Gold Eagle. The other by Amsoil. There may be other companies that make similar engine flush products. This is the type I would recommend.

Most engine flush products are added to the old oil and then the engine is idled for a certain period of time. Just make sure that you engine oil sump is already a half quart low to accomodate the added volume of the engine flush. You don't want to overfill the crankcase.

One way to be sure you've got room for the engine flush is to install a new oil filter to do the flush. This is a good idea anyway because you may end up with a much higher percentage of contaminants in the oil than normal. Your old filter will already be saturated with dirt and debris. A new filter will be much more likely to remove the contaminants from the oil as they are cleaned off of engine components by the engine flush.

Once the car has been idled for the specified period of time, remove your filter and drain the oil while the engine is still warm. This will remove the majority of contaminants from your engine. Then, install a new oil filter and pour in the correct amount of synthetic oil based upon your owner's manual recommendations."

Note: I am not an Amsoil guy, I have never even used an Amsoil product.

 

Having posted that flushing quote, now that I think about it a little more, I think the Marvel Mystery oil route seems like a less scary route to go but, if you have to go the full flush route, there are some good pointers in there.

 

I wouldn't trust that book as far as I could throw it, it's written by an Amsoil guy. Nomatter what he says, it's been proven that he's a dealer, and his shadetree-like narratives lack chemical or factual proof of anything. In fact, I get so mad thinking about Amsoil, that It makes me want to use full dino and Motorcraft filters forever just so that they never see a dime again. I don't care how good their products are, I'll never use them because of how sneaky and backwards that company is. Support hard working Americans, and buy real motor oil. And yes, Marvel Mystery oil is an excellent engine flush, it has been used successfully since the early 1900's.

'77 F100, 302 (the aftermarket Prodigy), C4
Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 23-Jul-02 AT 03:13 PM (EST)]Okay, TK, no more quotes from the Motor Oil Bible. Man, that kinda riled you up didn't it, sorry about that ....."hope were still friends" or "can't we all just get along" or something like that. EZ there, guy. Later.

P.S. : The only reason I have been on the boards so much is I got into some poison ivy while riding my dirt bike so had to take some sick days. It's much better, though, Prednisone pills from the Doc helped alot, its an anti-inflamatory agent so the skin does not react so much to the PI oil.

My main point in telling this: If you EVER get poison ivy, go to the Doc RIGHT AWAY - it ain't worth waiting, even 3 days like I did - the stuff is wicked.... I mean you think the PI oil might be done after it makes a little boil on your skin right, WRONG, if you pop one of those boils by scratching, the residual PI oil in the boil will make new boils - so go to the Doc, and don't scatch.

The Doc said he saw a guy once whose whole arm reacted and swelled huge due to this stuff. He's also seen people who, from burning weeds, got PI smoke/oil in their lungs - very bad. His words with respect to both instances was: "now that was impressive".

 

It's cool man, I understand the boredom. I'm stuck taking engineering classes at Clemson for the next few weeks, so being around fast computers and internet makes it real tempting to get on FTE. The best poison ivy story ever was when we were little kids, a few of my buddies in the neighborhood thought it'd be funny to take dumps in the woods, and wipe with leaves. I'm sure you can guess the rest of this. Take care, and get better. TK

'77 F100, 302 (the aftermarket Prodigy), C4
Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing

 

Good old jet fuel (cheap at any airport) Basically kerosene, have run a couple qts in aircraft engines that have been all sludged up before overhaul and it does a nice job of cleaning them out. Install and drive normal for 50-100 miles, refrain from redlining rpm. rk

 

Guess what? Put some of that kerosene on the poison ivy that will clear it right up!!!!!!!!



Brian

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 24-Jul-02 AT 10:35 AM (EST)] Good one! I mean that, I got a good laugh out of that. Of course, I like the First Blood and Terminator movies too, i.e. easily amused.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 24-Jul-02 AT 10:03 PM (EST)]Some people swear that washing your skin after exposure to poisen ivy with straght gas is the best since it dries your skin and destroys the agent.

During WWII, I believe the Germans drained the oil out of the ME 109's during the cold Siberian winter and used diesel instead as a lubricant since the oil wouldn't flow at the cold temps.

 

> I would be afraid of stirring up too much of that stuff
>at once. Marvel Mystery oil actually works good for this.
>Wait untill about 500 miles from an oil change and add a
>quart to the oil. It will thin it out so in hot weather I
>would be running a heavy oil.
> I actually had good luck cleaning up an engine this way
>by changing the oil every 1,000 mile for a few times and
>using 40w with a quart of Marvel. Jou have to change the
>filter each time and expensive oil isn't going to be in
>there long enough to matter much.

I would do this except I would use Rislone instead.A good product that I have used to clean up the insides of engines that aren't caked up beyond help.

 

I would not be afraid for one second to put kerosene in with my oil for flushing purposes. Just don't put a load on the engine and it will be fine. There isn't much pressure on the bearings when you are idling in neutral. I wouldn't run straight kerosene or diesel but a quart won't hurt. Overfilling your engine by a quart won't hurt either as long as you are idling. Its high rpms with the crank spinning in a pool of oil that will cause foaming problems