DuPont makes a teflon lubricant spray thats about the only thing that will not swell any of the rubber parts in the hubs. It works almost instantly at freeing the hubs when you want to put into manual at the hub itself. Lowes sells it and its right next to the WD40. 5 bucks vs. new autohub...good investment!

 

Sounds like your hub is freezing up on you. It is recommended that you use 4wd at least once a month to exercise the system and ensure it continues to work. You can try to clean your locking hub to see if that's the problem. Although Ford does not consider them serviceable, there is a great write-up here on how to do it:

http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/allube.php

Is it a beeping or a clicking? If it's a clicking and you say you hear it with the key out too, it sounds like a relay going bad, but I couldn't tell you which one. There's a hot line (constant 12V) that goes into relays and then a trigger signal to "pick up" the relay and connect the circuit to allow power to the component. It sounds like the relay is chattering (trying to pick up on its own).

Just my .02

 

Thanks guys.. I'm going to skip going back to the dealer & try doing some more troubleshooting myself.. I think going back to them right now is just going to lead to more $$$ outta my pocket & into theirs. My tires need rotated so i'm going to take better look at everything while I have them off

Brian.. earlier in the day while we were out & stopped at a red light, we heard the beeping.. my wife thought it was the text message beep on my cellphone but it wasn't. It was faint enough that you could only hear it while stopped at an idle. We went home & later that same night was when i went out to my truck & it was making the clicking noise, which i was able to make stop by turning the middle know of the climate control from off to the next setting...Something else came to mind since you said about the relay... After we got home it rained HARD for a while & my truck was pointed down hill.. I have noticed on rare occasion that my windshield has a leak somewhere. maybe its possible something got wet & was shorting out?? I know I have not heard the beeping or clicking since that day...

 

It could easily have been some moisture in the electronics. Hopefully it's dry now and stays away.

I had a windshield leak problem with my last truck, a '97 F-150. I didn't know it until I had the windshield replaced (rock damage).

 

I think I may have found part (or all ) of my problem. When going over the front hub, I found the larger vacuum line pulled off really easy.. The end of the hose was a little dry rotted & the nipple it goes over was VERY rusted & deteriorated. I just called the ford parts dept & they are closed. Anyone have any idea if that is something a normal parts store would carry? I'm just gonna change out the nipples on both sides & get new vacuum line from the hub to the next plastic nipple.

I also see there is 2 lines, the 2nd one is a little smaller & disappears somewhere down inside. Is that also part of the ESOF for the 4wd??

 

It's just some vacuum hose that an auto parts store would have. Take one of the sections with you so you get the correct diamater and length (I don't remember the dimensions off the top of my head). If you go to Ford, you will have to buy the whole assembly that contains all three lines (brakes, vacuum and ABS) and that runs about $80. I'd go with the auto parts store. Some have more available hose sizes than others so make sure you get the right diameter for a tight fit on the connections. The hose will most likely be on a big spool so they can cut the length you want. Shouldn't cost more than a few bucks.

What is the "2nd" line you are talking about? If you are referring to the one that runs behind the brake dust shield and into the middle of the hub, then that is the speed sensor (for the ABS). The only line in your wheel well for the ESOF is that one vacuum hose (runs from the bracket at the plastic tube connection to the front of the knuckle).

 

Greg, quite some time ago, someone on the board said a good replacement for the vacuum hoses was 3/16" SAE 30R7 fuel hose. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks guys, I went to the parts store last night. I was able to find a brass fitting to replace the rusted nipple. The inside hole is a little bigger but I didn't figure that could hurt anything. I used 7/32 vacuum tubing & everything seems to be good & tight. I have the other side apart right now & everything is tight & looks good so I am going to leave it alone. I'm still not sure if I fixed my problem though. When I turn the key on, my vacuum pump runs for at least 30 seconds, which is longer than I seem to remember, but I may be wrong. The other thing I am now questioning is the hubs unlocking. With one side sitting on blocks right now, if I flick the switch to 4H & turn the hub I hear the transfer case click in & I can only turn the hub a little either way & I can see the front drive shaft turn. When I take it out of 4H, I can turn the hub freely but the driveshaft still spins too. Am I wrong or should only the hub spin? I recall something from my friends F-150 where you had to back up for so far to get the auto hubs to disengage but I could never find anything about that in my manual...

Brian, yes.. that is the one I was referring to. I wasn't sure what it was for but looked similar to the smaller vacuum lines. I'm not usually afraid to tackle these kind of projects, but unfortunately.. I usually know just enough to get me in trouble !!!
I am grateful to have the great group of people on FTE to help when I get in a bind..

 

It's all about paying it forward. I spend a lot of time on the receiving end too!

It usually takes a few feet to engage/dis-engage the locking hubs.

As for the pump, I wouldn't consider any issues just yet. You had the ESOF disconnected so when you were first testing the system you had to draw a complete vacuum on the tubing. The only thing I can think of (since all you did was work on the ESOF system with respect to vacuum) is that your solenoid may have a small leak and bled off the vacuum in the reservoir. Vacuum is sensitive and is easily lost through the smallest of imperfections. I wouldn't show any concern until you get everything buttoned back up and have been driving around for a few days.

 

With the ESOF switch in 2h, and the hub in the 'auto' position, the driveshaft should not spin, only the wheel bearing assembly. Is the driveshaft spinning when you turn either the driver's or pass's side wheel assembly? Or is just the left side still turning the driveshaft when the hub is in auto. I just ask because you had mentioned that the driver's side was very stiff, and may need cleaned and lubed, (or replaced, depending on it's condition.) The only other reason that the driveshaft would still be locked to the hub is if you had a seized stub shaft carrier bearing, (in the center of the wheel bearing assembly, where the splined stub shaft comes from the axle tube, and goes out to the hub lockout.) But from what you described earlier, while testing truck turning tightly on pavement, it would drive normally until you engaged the hubs, so my guess is that a hub has decided it doesn't want to disengage. Sometimes if you just start driving, the vibrations from the road will dislodge the mechanism. If you do end up replacing the lockouts, Warn hubs are great, the only thing is you'll lose the ability to shift on the fly, but at least you'd have reliable 4wd. Let us know what you find out, oh and thanks for the tip on the vaccum hose nipple being available in brass, i don't know why that never occured to me before.
Good luck! - Caleb

 

Caleb. to be honest.. I am not sure about the passengers side. That is the side I did last night & I wasn't paying attention if the drive shaft was spinning or not. I have that wheel back on & only the drivers side is jacked up now. As I was turning the hub in & out of 4H a little light bulb came on in my brain & said "hey, that drive shaft shouldn't be turning in 2WD should it??" I
t seemed like it kinda defeated the purpose, but I wasn't sure if I was missing something. Of course, the drivers side which I am working on now is the side that is hard to manually lock in. I did spray some dupont teflon silicone in it & it does seem easier to turn now. I'm going to button everything back up soon & see what happens..