My son and I just replaced the ball joints on his '98 Explorer 2wd. It wasn't too bad, about 4 hours for all four, but we had a few challenges. We used a 'loaner' ball joint tool from Auto Zone, but it wouldn't press the joints out. The flange was so big on the original joints, once you got a sleeve to fit over it, it wouldn't sit straight enough to work. I pounded 'em out w/ a copper hammer. The tool worked fine pressing the new ones back in. The upper driver side is an entire replacement arm, which was the biggest challenge. The problem was getting the bolts out of the arm. The front one is tricky; the back one is flat impossible! There were 3 fuel lines right in the way. I removed all the brackets holding the lines, and was able to push them down enough to snake the bolt out. Do yourself a favor and remove the splash guard from the inner fender, too. This was my first try at ball joints; it went pretty well. My son is 19, and pretty handy w/ tools. I do the first side, with his help. then he does the second side, with my help. I figure it won't hurt him to get his hands dirty and learn some of this stuff! We put in a new set of shocks all around, too, as it still had the originals in it. It rides like a new truck now!

 

nice success story! I think shadetree mechanics are a dying breed.
What pushed you to do the repair? Squeeks and groans? I've got 85K on my 98 and I'v e got some squeeks in winter, but not much else.

 

I tried replacing the ball joints last weekend. Didn't happen. I have AWD with ABS brakes. I couldn't get the brakes off with the tools I have. Rusted bolts, akward spot. I need to buy a small, but powerful impact wrench, because the bolts that hold the brakes on are never comming off with a simple wrench.

What are some signs that the ball joints are going bad?

 

First clue was cupping on the tires, which I've heard is also caused by bad shocks. The rubber boots have been torn for over a year, which is what causes them to go south in the first place. To test them, I jacked up a wheel under the control arm, then pried up on the tire w/ a 2X4. The lower ball joint moved about 1/8"- definitely not good. There were also groans and a loose feel going down the road. The truck has 101K miles, and the ball joints and shocks were original. The old shocks are completely dead. We put Monroe Reflex on. This work really improved the ride and handling. Next up is getting it aligned, and then find some quality tires. My son has a longish daily commute to college, so everything has to be right. Why did we do it ourselves? Partially because we can, and partially due to the high cost of auto repairs. My son is 19, and I treasure the remaining father-son projects we have left before he sets out on his own.

 

My son is 19, and I treasure the remaining father-son projects we have left before he sets out on his own.



Probably the best reason to do it.

 

Be sure to get that alignment right away. Highly likely when doing a ball joint job that the alignment is off. You'll wear out tires quickly.

Agree with you about bad planning with upper control arm on drivers side and brake lines. Bad engineering. Sometimes I think the manufacturers design these things without fenders---easy to work on without them.

 

Got the alignment done today, and some new 'sneakers' from Tire Rack- Yokohama Geolanders. The ride is incredibly smooth and quiet- we'll see how they hold up.

 

Good job on the upper ball joints. I found the same problem with that back bolt. I got to talk to the local Ford dealership mechanic and he told me to just man-handle the fuel lines out of the way. That is what he does, he says. I found that if you get the front camber bolt out of the way, you can slip the head of a hammer behind the mount that holds the upper part of the shock and sort of brace the fuel lines out of the way. Then after you finish swearing and screaming at the back bolt, you can slip it out a bit easier. Goes in easier also with the new upper ball joint assembly.

If by chance you start to change the right side of the upper ball joint assembly and it looks TOTALLY different from the left side, DON'T BE ALARMED! My right side assembly had adjustment bolts and what can be described as another assembly bolted onto the right upper ball joint assembly.

I photographed this right side upper ball joint assembly that was different with my digital camera and visited the parts department at the Ford dealership. The parts guy showed me on the parts computer that the right side has been replaced with an assembly that looks like the left side. So, what I am trying to say is that BOTH the right and left side upper ball joint assemblies will look like twins.

BE ADVISED -- the assemblies have either "L" or "R" stamped on them, so be sure and install them on the correct sides. The mechanic said they look the same, but they are slighty different in design.

It was a relatively easy job that took a couple of hours.

Now, HOW THE FREAK DO YOU GET THE BOTTOM BALL JOINTS OFF???? Can't get them off to save my life. I removed the retainer ring, and everything else attached to the joints. I cannot removed the joints!! Any help would be appreciated.

 

We did the whole job in a few hours, and yes, the two upper ball joint arms are totally different. As for the lowers, I found that the rental tool would not press them out, as the factory flange was so big. I got my trusty 2# copper hammer out, and a few good wacks did the trick. The tool was fine for pressing the new ones in. As I always tell my son, though- hit it like you mean it! A few timid taps won't do anything.

 

Yes, I as I found out - you can beat the lower ball joints out with a hammer. Hit them like you are getting PAID for it, that is the only way the joints are coming out.

I found that I had to dress up the hole and the new ball joint a bit with some sandpaper to smooth things out and make the joint fit a bit easier. Don't sand too much, as the joint should still have to be beat into the plate with a hammer (just like it came out). NOTE: Be sure and screw the castellated nut onto the threads a bit to protect the threads while you are hammering the new joint in. And use the old castellated nut to work with - don't chance hurting your new nut.

I learned about torqueing a castellated nut and cotter pin correctly from working on helicopters. A castellated nut in the nut that looks like the ramparts of a castle. You know, the one that is used in conjunction with a cotter pin.

This is what I learned -- tighten down the castellated nut until it quits turning from gently being tighten down. If the nut and bolt are within correct tolerances, the castellated nut should be almost aligned with the hole in the bolt. If it isn't, then you need a new nut. Then you tighten the nut one more castellation and align the castellation and the hole in the bolt. This action will place the castellated nut within the correct torque required. Then all you have to do is the cotter pin. Remember, tighten till the first hole, then tighten one more hole and that is it. Done.

Hope this helps someone.

 

I used the rental ball joint tool to press mine in. Even with grease on the threads, the tool got surprisingly hot during the process, and it took my longest 1/2" breaker bar to press it home. I don't think those ball joints will fall out! Great tip on castellated nuts; thanks!

 

Does the whole lower control arm come off then hammer the ball joints out or can this be done on the car?thanks

 

I think I need to have lower ball joints and shocks done on my 97 4x4. I don't have any interest in doing this myself at this point....does anyone know what this is likely to run in $'s? It was hard to get a feel from reading this thread. Standard, non-performance shocks. Any guidance would be appreciated.


jeff

 

I did them in my wife's 97 2wd and as the original poster said, they are really not that bad. The driver's side upper is sort of a pain to get the bolts out and back in as stated before, however, I ended up saving over $800 on the ball joint and shock replacement by doing it myself.

 

Guys, here's a trick for installing the lowers: Put them in the freezer for about 2 hours before installation. This will shrink them ever so slightly, and they'll tap in much easier.....