The distances are what makes this so darn hard. I've got some too that I picked up just to keep from being crushed and would sell for what I have in them. But shipping would kill. I've paid on some about $50 a piece just to ship. Stu

 

Stu~
What's the rim width of your wheels? I worked for 2 days in a couple hundred acre field of trucks to come up with 7 - taking them off myself with hand tools. After getting them blasted, powder coated and tires mounted one is totally unusable - wobble, and one is acceptable. SO I'd like to come up with 2 more.

An area to watch on these old wheels is where the center section contacts the rim. On the front side (outside of a front rim) dirt packs in there and holds moisture = rust and weakening the rims integrity. This is especially true if sitting for a long time, or in a field / wrecking yard setting.

Bob

 

Looks like I've got two that are the wider 6" variety and seven that are the narrow 5" style. Some are solid lock rings, the old Firestone "RH" probably, and others are Goodyear split rings. One is a Motor Wheel brand that has more hand holes so it wouldn't match with others very well. They all have some rust but I don't think any are beyond hope. I've seen a lot worse. Stu

 

So I'm just curious what would be a better wheel to use; the Lock Ring type or the Goodyear Split Rims? I was thinking I would use the split rims and sell the lock rings. is there any advantage/disadvantage of using one over the other or just the looks and no other meaningful differences?

thanks

Josh

 

The term "split rim" is to me misleading. For instance:

There are designs, like the widowmaker, where the wheel and "side ring" split in half top to bottom along the center line. There are also, however, similar looking wheel/side ring combos that are not widowmakers. Mostly these are the three piece designs common on the F-7/8s. The side ring on these looks like the WM side ring, but they are safe because there is a third small "lock ring" that holds the side ring in place. These three piece designs were used, and still are today, on the bigger trucks because they allow the side ring to move with the tire bead under extreme loads thus reducing chafing of the tire.

Then there are designs that have a diagonal "split" the full width, front to back, of the outer rim. These are used with Dayton demountable wheel hubs.

Then there are what we generally call "lock ring" designs. There are dozens and dozens of these designs that have been used over the years. And are still sold new today. Some, primarily Firestone designs, have a solid "continuous" ring with no split. Others, mostly Goodyear designs, use rings that have a split that allows the ring to be walked around the rim during installation.

The continuous/non-split rings have two indented areas opposite of each other on their inner edge that allow them to be squeezed over the wheel. These are older designs. The most common of them is the Firestone "RH". There's also the "R" and the "RI". These are not to be confused with the "RH-5°" which is the widowmaker.

The split ring designs can be easily understood by looking at them. The solid ring style are harder to get the hang of and don't give you much choice but to get professional help. Either style ring can be ruined (bent or sprung) if handled wrong. I don't think, though, that there's any advantage of one over the other. The critical thing is that the rim/ring combos of different designs not be mix matched. That can lead to violent separation. Here's those OSHA web sites again:

http://www.tireindustry.org/pdf/osha_Rim%20Matching.pdf
http://www.tireindustry.org/pdf/osha_Demount-Mount.pdf

 

Stu~

Good info in the OSHA links you shared here. I also ran into them sometime back and uploaded to the ATHS site - where this topic also surfaces. As you indicate the terminology on rims is often loosely used creating additional confusion. Prime example is "split rim", it's interesting if you look at the OSHA info and see what they consider a split rim (Dayton style). Most seem to use split rim when talking about the Widowmakers (WM). And unfortunately when talking about multi-piece rims.

Quote:

The continuous/non-split rings have two indented areas opposite of each other on their inner edge that allow them to be squeezed over the wheel. These are older designs. The most common of them is the Firestone "RH". There's also the "R" and the "RI". These are not to be confused with the "RH-5°" which is the widowmaker.

Are the continous/non-split rings you referenced outer rings? Or split at the wheel center line like WM's shown in Greg's pic's - and not the red shirt variety.

Havi~
Something to consider, as it sounds like you've access to a decent shop. I have read where someone or someplace drills out the rivits of a RH-5° center section and welds them into 1 piece Dayton rims. It gets you the 5x8 lug pattern with new 1 piece rims. The obvious critical part is getting them set and welded true. The price was prohibitive for me. It would be great to know if this would work though as the RH-5° rims that came on my truck are in great shape - coming out of Nebraska.

Bob

 

Bob - They are outer ring types. Not the WM style. Here's a cross section of the "RH". Stu

 

Stu~
Thanks for the clarification. Those must be what I rescued and passed on to someone late last year at my cost ($150). They were un-corroded lock ring rims with 4 new 7:50x20 recaps, but at 5" wide narrow to my purpose. I had to rescue them though as they are getting harder and harder to find. I happened to run into a "seasoned" gentlemen still working his 49 F5 truck near my house. I followed him back to the work site and struck up a conversation. Which identified a need for new rear tires for his truck and not sure where to go. As they say, the rest is history...

'49 F5 with "new" rims onboard:


I've also included a cropped shot from Ken Goudy's Collection of the multi-hand hole type wheel you referenced for others. I've typically seen them on GMC's thru '47:

 

Yup, those are Motor Wheel Corporation, called Spoksteel brand (no "e"). Mostly they were Chevy/GMC/Studebaker and were hub piloted, but they also made them in stud piloted designs for Ford/Dodge/IH/etc. Here's a pic of the one MW wheel that I've got.

 

I've been following this thread and I have a question. Why not dump the 20" WM or split rings and go with one piece 22.5"?

The original question was a replacement for the 6 lug 20" WM. I say go with the 6 lug 22.5" I just happen to have several of the 22.5" tubeless rims here (extras). I currently run a set on my 56 f600 with new rubber and it is really nice to not have to worry about it.

 

You're right that this thread has drifted away from the original 6 lug focus. Your rims are the best solution for that guy, no question. Those rims that have the 8.75" bolt circle are in fact still sold new today by Accuride.

So often the cost of tubeless rims (which ever bolt pattern) is so high that it's a deal breaker. That then routes us into alternatives that are cheaper and still allow a guy to get rid of his WMs. That's why I've picked up 20" lock rings when I've found them, and I guess Bob is doing similar. I don't need them for my trucks, but will pass mine on to anybody that needs them for what I've got in them.

The other issue that has been problematic is rim width. The earliest 22.5s were only 5.25" wide and were designed for either a 7 x 22.5 or 8 x 22.5 tires, which at the time would have still be a bias construction. The narrowest tire you'll find today is a 9R22.5 which works on the later 6.75" wide rims but isn't recommended for the narrower early ones. I suspect, though, that there are probably guys that use the 9" tires on the narrow rims without problems. Stu

 

Jeeptrix,

Do you still have the 6 bolt 20" budd wheels & tires?

Shindog1