well this is the second time that this piece has broke. i dont want to use a pair of pliers to start my truck anymore. i bought the part but i can not find the instructions on the forum of how to replace it. every thread i look at says "do an advanced search for ignition actuator." i know ive seen step by step intructions before, can anyone please link me to them
thanks

 

This is my personal write-up from the last time I did mine:

Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator 1987-91

1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.

 

That looks very good but you forgot about the 12 pack of beer !!!!!

 

awesome thats exactly what i was looking for

yea its gonna take atleast a 12 to get me through this

 

I take it this is a whole lot easier if you don't have tilt steering?
Its gets hard to turn the key when its cold, and I keep meaning to crack it open and clean up/regrease, but never remember to do it.

 

Getting ready to do this to my 91 F250. Has anyone found a way to prevent this from being a repeat failure in the cold weather? What is a good lube to use? Graphite, white lithium? It's 3F (actual) and dropping into the negatives this week. I don't want to have to keep repeating this procedure.

 

I used something called John Deere CORN HEAD GREASE in my 88 F-150. That was over 10 years ago and no problems so far. It has a unique texture in that it won't leak off yet it stays soft. It comes in a full size grease gun tube, available at your John Deere machinery dealer. You may have to buy a whole tube, about four dollars.

 

My actuator broke in cold weather, too. I got everything back together, but the turn signals don't cancel after a turn without my centering the lever, and the tilt is stuck all the way down. I waited for a warmer day when I have some time, and came back to the forum to freshen my memory. Anyone know where I went wrong?
'91 F-250

 

It was something simple. There's a peg on the bottom of the turn signal switch where the handle screws in. It should fit into a socket, but I had it misaligned, so the switch sat at an angle, and the handle couldn't push forward enough to allow tilt adjustment, and the collar with the peg that cancels the turn signal was sort of twisted . All good now!

 

my ignition actuator in my 85 ford e-150 econoline club wagon broke and is stuck inside the slide hole and unable to to get it out no matter what i do.any help would be nice at this point.I have been following thos steps and taking parts loose/off but i have not removed the tilt jaw pin or the gear shift lever. the broken peice is stuck all the way in the back of the hole.

 

I used a couple of needle tipped tools similar to dental picks.

 

You have not followed the disassembly steps all the way or else the actuator would be hanging out in the air.

 

Amazon.com: Dorman 83213 Steering Column Lock Actuator: Automotive

Is this the part that breaks? I'm pretty sure this is what is preventing me from using my key to engage the starter on my truck.

 

No, that's not it.

 

Thanks for the instructions jas88 but I've got a few questions for you.

What is the part number for this actuator that you speak of replacing?

The way mine switch is now, there is no spring in it now so it doesn't go to start and spring back to run. I have to turn the switch all the way until it stops to put it in run mode with the dash lights lighting up and then use a push button to start it. Does this sound like the actuator, the ignition switch or both?

If I were to get a used one, what year range can I look for this part out of and what did all Fords use the same ones in their model vehicles?

Thanks,
Charlie