help with ignition actuator
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 7,934
Likes: 576
From: Greater Austin, Texas
The way mine switch is now, there is no spring in it now so it doesn't go to start and spring back to run.
Here is the part I am talking about:
Dorman Products - Search Results
New User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Help ignition actuator replacement!
This is my personal write-up from the last time I did mine:
Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator 1987-91
1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.
Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator 1987-91
1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.
who is jealous of everybody who watched the videos and had no problems!
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 7,934
Likes: 576
From: Greater Austin, Texas
This repair is making my brain numb - I am at step 9 but can't get that particular gear out - anyone have suggestions?
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 784
Likes: 0
From: Over the hump in Pahrump
Don't go brain numb !!!
This repair is making my brain numb - I am at step 9 but can't get that particular gear out - anyone have suggestions? I am having visions of being afoot for a long, long time! Also, does anyone have a bigger, better resolution steering column/ignition exploded diagram you could email to me? Please, no YouTube -lucky to have dialup where I live! Thanks, Jimi who is jealous of everybody who watched the videos and had no problems!
who is jealous of everybody who watched the videos and had no problems!
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
From: Atascadero, CA
my ignition actuator in my 85 ford e-150 econoline club wagon broke and is stuck inside the slide hole and unable to to get it out no matter what i do.any help would be nice at this point.I have been following thos steps and taking parts loose/off but i have not removed the tilt jaw pin or the gear shift lever. the broken peice is stuck all the way in the back of the hole.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 778
From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by jas88
(post #16) Here is the part 
I'm talking about.
I'm talking about.There are TWO different steering column actuators, both use the same basic Ford part number of 3E723 .. but one is tilt wheel only (D1AZ-3E723-C). T'other is WITHOUT tilt wheel =
D4AZ-3E723-A (replaced D0AZ-3E723-A) .. Steering Column Actuator-Use without tilt wheel / Available from Ford.
MSRP: $80.30 / FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept sponsor tousleyfordparts.com price: $53.00 / Tousley Ford = White Bear Lake MN
Applications: 1980/96 F100/350, Bronco & Econoline // 1970/78 Galaxie/LTD/Mercury Marquis / 1970/73 Mustang/Cougar / 1970/76 Fairlane/Torino/Ranchero/Montego / 1970/77 Maverick/Comet / 1970/79 Thunderbird.
1971/80 Pinto/Bobcat / 1974/78 Mustang II / 1974/79 Cougar / 1975/80 Granada/Monarch / 1977/79 Ranchero/LTD II (not an LTD!) / 1977/80 Lincoln Versailles / 1979 Mustang/Capri.
New User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Does anybody have a link/ any information on how this fix would work for an 88 F-250 non-tilt manual transmission? It looks like some sort of bracket broke in the steering column housing and the switch won't engage the starter.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 3,066
Likes: 7
From: Over There
Any idea what size those threads are I can't find anything that fits? Metric?
New User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Hate to re-open an old thread, but I have a similar/same issue. 93 F150, driving along and suddenly dies. no warning, just dead. power stays for a little while, then I lose all power. Battery reads 12.4 volts, but no power anywhere.
Replaced the Starter solenoid, got power where it supposed to be, but now ignition lock won't turn to start. I can remove it, but replacement part won't seat all the way in.
think I see an issue with ignition rod (plastic rod located above lock cylinder housing) as I can move it a bit by hand.
BLUF: Any exploded views of dis-assembly of steering column AND suggestions on what the part is actually called/ where I can get one?
Replaced the Starter solenoid, got power where it supposed to be, but now ignition lock won't turn to start. I can remove it, but replacement part won't seat all the way in.
think I see an issue with ignition rod (plastic rod located above lock cylinder housing) as I can move it a bit by hand.
BLUF: Any exploded views of dis-assembly of steering column AND suggestions on what the part is actually called/ where I can get one?
New User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Phy,
Once I figure out how, I'll send my email address.
Quick update, I got power coursing. Swapped out the fender mount solenoid and rechecked the wires to the battery. So That part of the issue is resolved.
Also disassembled the steering column and gear selector, found the pivot pin that goes between the actuator arm and the gear selector wasn't "locking" in place. After putting it back together, I am able to get the key to turn to "start".
Now for the bad part... no crank. As a side note the old starter solenoid was a 3 post and the new one is a 4 post, so I am thinking there is a wire in the wrong position due to the change in the amount of posts. Please let me know if I am incorrect, cause I really want to get back on the road and not have the Mrs gettting up early in the AM to get me to work
Once I figure out how, I'll send my email address.
Quick update, I got power coursing. Swapped out the fender mount solenoid and rechecked the wires to the battery. So That part of the issue is resolved.
Also disassembled the steering column and gear selector, found the pivot pin that goes between the actuator arm and the gear selector wasn't "locking" in place. After putting it back together, I am able to get the key to turn to "start".
Now for the bad part... no crank. As a side note the old starter solenoid was a 3 post and the new one is a 4 post, so I am thinking there is a wire in the wrong position due to the change in the amount of posts. Please let me know if I am incorrect, cause I really want to get back on the road and not have the Mrs gettting up early in the AM to get me to work
New User
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
I realize this is an old thread, but I just did this and didn't see the thread sizes posted for the threaded pins on the tilt mechanism. #8-32 1" socket head cap screws worked great. A little over a buck for two at HD. Also, putting the pins pack in for reassembly isn't that hard. Use a punch in the hole to hold one side while you do the first side. Autozone has the actuator on the shelf, 9.99 locally for me. It is a Dorman/Help! Part, #83280.
Once the column is back together, if the key doesn't quite work right (won't come out, doesn't engage starter, etc) the first place to look is the adjustment on the ignition switch. Drop the column (2 outside bolts on my 1990) and the ignition switch should have a couple of nuts you can loosen to slide the switch forward and back to find the correct position. Careful here and take your time, ignition switch is live, so you might have to make 5 or six trips back and forth to the battery to disconnect, adjust, reconnect, test, disconnect, adjust, reconnect, test, repeat as necessary.
Awesome write up by the way, guys.
Jason
Once the column is back together, if the key doesn't quite work right (won't come out, doesn't engage starter, etc) the first place to look is the adjustment on the ignition switch. Drop the column (2 outside bolts on my 1990) and the ignition switch should have a couple of nuts you can loosen to slide the switch forward and back to find the correct position. Careful here and take your time, ignition switch is live, so you might have to make 5 or six trips back and forth to the battery to disconnect, adjust, reconnect, test, disconnect, adjust, reconnect, test, repeat as necessary.
Awesome write up by the way, guys.
Jason
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: SC
1st attempt at this...wish me luck?
The write up included here looks to be exactly what I need.
91 F150 XLT Lariat 2WD E4OD
Ford Dealer replace ignition switch under saftey recall a few years ago and haven't had any issues until today...well, besides it only able to start in Park and not in Neutral.
So, today I park it, turn key off, and everything is normal. Then, when I try to start it back up, the key and cylinder turn freely, have the usual resistance at Start position, but no start. Now, power is on and can not be turned off. Note: easily cranks by shorting relay lugs. Pulled Fuel pump relay to shut down. Then, disconnected battery.
Now I'm off to O'rilleys for the Ignition Actuator Part # 83280 $11.49.
91 F150 XLT Lariat 2WD E4OD
Ford Dealer replace ignition switch under saftey recall a few years ago and haven't had any issues until today...well, besides it only able to start in Park and not in Neutral.
So, today I park it, turn key off, and everything is normal. Then, when I try to start it back up, the key and cylinder turn freely, have the usual resistance at Start position, but no start. Now, power is on and can not be turned off. Note: easily cranks by shorting relay lugs. Pulled Fuel pump relay to shut down. Then, disconnected battery.
Now I'm off to O'rilleys for the Ignition Actuator Part # 83280 $11.49.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Denver
You might want to check the ignition lock cylinder first. The key would spin freely if that were to break & that is more common. Much easier to fix too, just a few minutes.
Edit: perhaps there would be no resistance if this were true...
Good luck
Edit: perhaps there would be no resistance if this were true...
Good luck
Last edited by FordGumby; Feb 2, 2018 at 10:52 AM. Reason: Not sure...
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: SC
@FordGumby, I replaced the lock cylinder and no change.
I wonder how far I'll need to go before I see the root cause...? I'll be sure and post a follow up.
So far I've got the steering wheel pulled and about to drop the column.
I wonder how far I'll need to go before I see the root cause...? I'll be sure and post a follow up.
So far I've got the steering wheel pulled and about to drop the column.