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@FordGumby, I replaced the lock cylinder and no change.
I wonder how far I'll need to go before I see the root cause...? I'll be sure and post a follow up.
So far I've got the steering wheel pulled and about to drop the column.
As soon as you remove the plastic cowling from around the steering column, 2 screws accessible from the bottom, you should be able to tell the cause of the problem. I'm almost certain you will find a broken actuator. Very common with the '87 to '91 Ford trucks.
On my list of things to do, when I turn the key the ignition tumbler is very stiff to turn to start and you have to manually turn it back to complete the start.
I pulled this apart back when i learned that the actuator can be the source of problem. Mine is not broken, I cleaned everything I could as well lubricated too.
being that nothing appears broken what could the problem be.
i didn't read every reply in this thread so sorry if I'm rehashing this.
thanks.
On my list of things to do, when I turn the key the ignition tumbler is very stiff to turn to start and you have to manually turn it back to complete the start.
I pulled this apart back when i learned that the actuator can be the source of problem. Mine is not broken, I cleaned everything I could as well lubricated too.
being that nothing appears broken what could the problem be.
i didn't read every reply in this thread so sorry if I'm rehashing this.
thanks.
it's likley the upper actuator. Doubt it's broken...just needs lubrication.
"The way mine switch is now, there is no spring in it now so it doesn't go to start and spring back to run. I have to turn the switch all the way until it stops to put it in run mode with the dash lights lighting up and then use a push button to start it. Does this sound like the actuator, the ignition switch or both?"
How do you "set up" the actuating rod and the column switch internal position to correctly operate the ignition? After replacing any broken parts of course.
Thanks
Geoff
Last edited by Geoff Adams; Feb 27, 2018 at 06:58 PM.
Reason: clarity
"91 F150 xlt lariat w/tilt, cruise and 5.0 and aod.
I bought the truck, recently (2 wks ago), it needed the key and cylinder replaced. It had the key "horns or wings" or whatever they are called twisted right off but there was still enough to grab a hold of carefully to turn the cylinder. Looking in through the key hole/slot you could see that the inside was not properly lined up. I was able to get the cylinder out even without the key and replaced it with one from auto zone. So now there is a key for the truck. However it needs to be turned all the way to the start position just to get the truck turned on and a push button on the lower right of the dash is used to engage the starter. When rotated back to the lock position (there seems to be a bit of slop i.e. movement with nothing happening) it does lock the wheel and it will turn beyond to the acc position but nothing there works. Accessories that is, don't work in that position.
So I am trying to learn what might be needed to be repaired as I go along here also including the myriad of other problems as well. What can I expect from a $1500 truck that has been so obviously abused that even I don't believe the 93,975 miles on the clock. Turn signal switch, left rear brake light (not the bulb or ground), Hazard lights, power windows, door locks, rear fuel pump and both tank gauges. More too, including mechanical stuff. I'll have lots to do so it's good that I'm retired, I guess.
If you haven't already removed the cowling from around the steering column, you will need to do so to investigate. 2 screws accessible from the bottom side to remove the cowling. You may have to drop the steering column to remove the cowling. Fairly easy to drop the steering column, 2 or 4 small bolts under the dash area accessible from the bottom.
Once the cowling is removed, it should be fairly easy to see the problem. If you are really lucky, the position of the switch would just need adjusted. If the actuator is broken, not nearly so easy.
You might want to check the ignition lock cylinder first. The key would spin freely if that were to break & that is more common. Much easier to fix too, just a few minutes.
Edit: perhaps there would be no resistance if this were true...
Good luck
actually I'm having the same problem and I've got a new ignition lock cylinder and I've got a new ignition switch both installed still had the same problem so it's actually the ignition actuator and if anybody has any diagram on how this looks please let me know
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