trouble code
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Freshman User
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175000 miles only symptom i get is the check engine light get an over heating reduce power only if i use the air. but if i turn the truck off and then right back on the temp gauge goes right back like nothing was wrong and off i go. converter is about 1300 - 1500 bucks
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Millersburg, OH
Not really sure about the code. Does the performance and everything return to normal after you trun the engine off and then back on? How long before you have issues again?
It really sounds like to be the coolant temp sensor goes whacky and then teh PCM goes into limp home mode thinking the engine is over heating. Once you trun the truck off and then back on the sensor works as normal and the PCM goes back to normal operation.
It really sounds like to be the coolant temp sensor goes whacky and then teh PCM goes into limp home mode thinking the engine is over heating. Once you trun the truck off and then back on the sensor works as normal and the PCM goes back to normal operation.
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Freshman User
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the truck goes back to normal after the pcm resets (with me while driving turning the motor off and re starting) sounds like you are right on with the coolant sensor
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
I just looked around, and you can get the P0430 code because of a bad coolant sensor.
If the PCM thinks the engine is hot enough, it runs the catalytic converter efficiency test. However, with a bad coolant sensor, the PCM is going to run the test when the cat isn't hot enough. So, it fails the test.
I believe there is both a cylinder-head-temp sensor (CHT), and a coolant temp sensor. If it were me, I'd hook it up to a scanner and check both. But you might want to try just changing the CHT, because the CHT is usually the thing the PCM watches and goes into limp mode when it overheats.
If the PCM thinks the engine is hot enough, it runs the catalytic converter efficiency test. However, with a bad coolant sensor, the PCM is going to run the test when the cat isn't hot enough. So, it fails the test.
I believe there is both a cylinder-head-temp sensor (CHT), and a coolant temp sensor. If it were me, I'd hook it up to a scanner and check both. But you might want to try just changing the CHT, because the CHT is usually the thing the PCM watches and goes into limp mode when it overheats.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Millersburg, OH
Good point about the CHT sensor and limp mode. The CHT is under the intake and it has to be removed in order to replace the sensor so you probably want to make sure it's bad.
Like Art suggested if you have a good scanner/reader you can probably figure out if it's bad. Have it plugged into the PCM and logging real time data while you are driving. When you have an issue look at the data from the each sensor (CHT and ECT). If one of them reads at an extreme temp that sensor is probably stuck open and is the bad one.
Like Art suggested if you have a good scanner/reader you can probably figure out if it's bad. Have it plugged into the PCM and logging real time data while you are driving. When you have an issue look at the data from the each sensor (CHT and ECT). If one of them reads at an extreme temp that sensor is probably stuck open and is the bad one.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Millersburg, OH
Not sure how you'd get a sensor socket in there. The top of the sensor is only and inch or two from the bottom of the intake and on the same angle as the head. Might be possiable but it would sure be a pain.
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