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Well on the winches it seems that warns are highspeed and pull high amps on average. But ramseys seem to pull slower with less amps, but if slower means more time on battery draw. So usually the biggest question for me when dealing with winches is what alternator and type of wiring. Is it up to the task at hand. If you have a truck with 100amp alternator and everything is electric in your truck you will pull down batteries and kill truck. So usually from what I've seen is most winches are pretty good but voltage supply is a question especially on electric everything in truck. I'm changing this thread so I'll stop now. But you usually get what you pay for on electrical componets such as a winch.
No,Wyoming your not changing the thread at ALL! you are making the type of comparison that i specifically want,as to the benefits of both.......
Isnt it still kinda interesting that while much of the Warn and Ramsey product lines are similar,both of them primarily manufacture planetary gear winches,they both have smartly chosen to continue production on the design winchs that set them apart from each other.......related to this i just picked up a used *****'s jeep T90/dana 18/Ramsey dual output PTO.......another piece of the project puzzle.
I wouldn't say a Ramsey pulls slow. Mine moves pretty fast with or without a load on it. I just run the big Ford alt, not sure how many amps it has but it's no where near 100 & with a good pair batteries wired together, no isolator, I have no problems.
All alternators do not make peak voltage at same rpm's. some need some rpm to work so at idle you might be only getting 50 amps and winch is drawing 100 under load or more. I had a alternator built for my truck and it does 210 amps at 2500 rpm on sheave of alternator. makes 105 amps at 1200 rpm with the sheave I had installed. Several factors involved when getting the amps you need at idle compared to running down the road. Just more stuff to worry about and make you think.
here not to long ago I broke my front end and had to winch my truck over a quartermile. Just to get to a area to work on truck. Snow run and broke both warn premium hubs and later broke my spare. Anyways I had to winch to spot in road so that I could get my truck rollin and once moving good to go. Also had to spin truck 180 degree's in road with winches. One of the problems I ran into during this winchathon was I found a grounding issue I didn't realize I had until under serious load. Winch was running slow and cutting out. My ground to solenoid pack was loose and creating all kinds of problems. Moral of story is not the winch but voltage supply to winch is usually the failure of winch. I run welding leads for grounds and positive wiring. I believe in extreme situation you need the best wiring you can get. I hardly ever use winches until winter arrives and I usually make sure everything is good to go before the situation happens. Once I went to worm drives pretty much all my winching problems went away. Slow but sure. I still run cable and some day maybe get some of that new winch rope stuff. I have cut winch cable in half in extreme situation and its dangerous. My truck has a few safety factors built in but still dangerous.
I use welding cable for all the stuff now that requires 2-6 gauge wiring,its significantly cheaper that regular battery cable,its got more,finer strands of wire than regular battery cable,and better insulation......ive just placed an order for 50 ft each of red and black 2 gauge,some copper lugs,polarized connectors,etc.
Ive got 2G leads already in place going to the rear of the Dodge and the F250,and i will make leads for the Chevy. currently,both the QM5000 Ramsey and the M8000 Warn will work on either truck,and ive also got a set of 20 ft long jumper cables,and a fairly high wattage power inverter. Ive got everything set up with matching polarized connectors so it can be used with whatever truck im operating.
Wyoming,id have to call a 1/4 mile winch pull one hell of a torture test,for ALL components........If there were any weak links in your system,im certain you would have discovered them during that ordeal....Weak links other than the locking hubs,that is!
Wyoming,id have to call a 1/4 mile winch pull one hell of a torture test,for ALL components........If there were any weak links in your system,im certain you would have discovered them during that ordeal....Weak links other than the locking hubs,that is!
When I play up in these mountains in winter your on your own and I'm usually the most capable truck around. I'm about to set up some rims for double bead lok or check into stauns innertubes beadloks to air down to nothing on snowpak. Also on winches I can borrow parts from one winch to another if something breaks and this might get me out. l have to think in worst case scenerio. Some times its below zero and miserable or even worse a storm rolls in on me or us and we have to get out. Big tires will only get you so far but those winches will pretty much get me out of a serious situation if I drop off into it. Also truck has to be running. Also I have a isolator splitting between winches and truck,dual battery system. So if winch battery runs down to nothing my truck isn't affected and keeps on charging. Winches on seperate system from truck voltage supply. That is another learning curve from past experience. My winches are my only friend when up on the mountain. People say it cost to much but cheaper than a wrecker bill and they will not come and get me if things go bad where I play. They say wait till spring to get me out.
was just following up on a old post. Had a weak winch motor and had rebuilt, installed today and worked on grounds and other related tasks. Getting ready for winter world which is coming soon. just a couple of weaks away up in wyoming. still a little warm for now. load test the batteries and other related checks. fix the odvious stuff. huntin season is here now and will be leaving on 15 sept. catch you later.
I'm doing the same thing. Getting stuff done while its nice instead of miserable winter. I just installed a 8000 Ramsey on my new to me 79 f250 camper special 4x4 with the 60 front. I paid 700$ for the whole truck then previuos owner called me later and said there was a winch that was on it and it was mine for another $100. I did some major cutting of the stock bumper as he had it set up to bolt to the front tabs which made bumper stick out over a foot which was ridiculous!!
I think it turned out pretty tidy. Just put it on 2 days ago..
It was a easy install and my deep cycle battery in truck even had a 3/8 aux bolt for pos and neg making it simple to power.
After install I hooked it up to my 2 trucks and dragged them together with ease.
I'm not sure about the size of alternator in this new truck but it has a very large case much bigger than the norm. It may be a 90 amp or something being a camper special better than the 60 ampers.
My big truck runs a 12,000 warn front and 10,000 warn rear with 0 gauge cable and a custom built 160 amp alternator to do 100amps at idle. The Warns have worked flawlessly and I even have them both on wireless controls
So far I'm a big fan Warn and we'll see how this Ramsey works come this winter when I take the 2 trucks out!
I'm running a 1972 Warn 8200, the predecessor of the 8274, and the missing link between it and the old Warn/Belliviews that were power in/manual brake. It was built for 9 months in 72... LOL
I have a 1982 M12000 that's going to be going on the rear here soon.
I know very few people around where who run anything but warn, or the made in china specials.
73, idk if the two alts are different amps, but every time i had to buy an alt for my older trucks they always asked me "big or small case?" like i said, don't know if one was more amps or not, just throwing it out there that there was a big and small one for the 70's trucks, and i never had a camper special if that matters to the parts jockeys at the big box stores. don't know if their systems are smart enough to have a c/s as an option under their crappy lists.
Large case will probably be the 80-100A unit that has the plug on the side rather than just stud terminals on the back. Thats what came from the factory on my 6.9, in 80A flavour.
I just swapped my 460 truck over to a Taurus issue 130A 3G, the wiring is actually quite simple, and the charging performance is amazing, with my factory pulleys on a dead batt it is putting out nearly 100A at engine idle.