new computer made things worse
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
I just re-read my last post and the way I have that quote in there makes it look like I was referring to the first sentence with the quote. The "absolutely" response was directed towards the question regarding the ability of a computer to output both 2 and 3-digit codes, which for one computer, it absolutely cannot do.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,541
Likes: 54
From: Des Moines
And I'll look up the test procedures on the TAD and TAB for you in a few minutes.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Sorry, no change pulled codes on it. This what I got,
172= HEGO shows system always lean
33= EGR valve opening not detected ( new EGR and new EGR solenoid)
45=Thermactor air upstream during self- test
38 (could be 48 couldn't find 38)but 48 is Loss of IDM, leftside whatever an IDM is
53=TP circuit above max voltage
66-MAF sensor input below min voltage
32=EVP voltage below closed limit
Some of these codes I didn't get off the old computer and on the passenger side of the engine it alot hotter than the driver side and can still smell raw gas, so the cats may be getting to hot.
172= HEGO shows system always lean
33= EGR valve opening not detected ( new EGR and new EGR solenoid)
45=Thermactor air upstream during self- test
38 (could be 48 couldn't find 38)but 48 is Loss of IDM, leftside whatever an IDM is
53=TP circuit above max voltage
66-MAF sensor input below min voltage
32=EVP voltage below closed limit
Some of these codes I didn't get off the old computer and on the passenger side of the engine it alot hotter than the driver side and can still smell raw gas, so the cats may be getting to hot.
Was the engine fully warmed up when you pulled the codes? It should be. The codes that are of most concern here are the over/under voltage ones, the TP and MAF sesnors don't need to warm up and should report correctly immediately so you need ot determine if the ref voltage to these devices is correct. And since you changed the computer this points to a wiring problem.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,541
Likes: 54
From: Des Moines
Okay, I'm not seeing anything my manual about testing the TAD and TAB but maybe I just can't locate it in the book.
Anyway, since I missed your original post on your problems, what is it the truck is doing? [A link to the original post will be fine.]
Anyway, since I missed your original post on your problems, what is it the truck is doing? [A link to the original post will be fine.]
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,541
Likes: 54
From: Des Moines
Kind of like it's going to stall out? Has it ever stalled? This is interesting, as mine has the same problem when it gets warmed up... 
After you've warmed the engine up, then pull into say, a gas station, shut it off, run in for a minute, then come back out and start it up, does the idle vary between high and low, kind of like you're repetitively stepping on and off the gas? If so, then we may have the same problem!
I'm yet to start working on mine but I've considered the possibility that it could be the servo, but I don't see anything in my manual about how to test it. If I'm not mistaken it is vacuum operated.
*Edit- It does give procedures for adjusting it tho, if you wanna try that.
After you've warmed the engine up, then pull into say, a gas station, shut it off, run in for a minute, then come back out and start it up, does the idle vary between high and low, kind of like you're repetitively stepping on and off the gas? If so, then we may have the same problem!
I'm yet to start working on mine but I've considered the possibility that it could be the servo, but I don't see anything in my manual about how to test it. If I'm not mistaken it is vacuum operated.
*Edit- It does give procedures for adjusting it tho, if you wanna try that.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 565
Likes: 0
No, mine doesn't stall and it'll start right back up after shut off. Mine backfires through the intake under light acceleration. What is the servo?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
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Likes: 54
From: Des Moines
The servo is the throttle actuator. If you notice there's two cables attached to your throttle body- one from the pedal, and if you trace the other it leads to a circular box mounted by the brake booster. It's essentially what makes cruise control possible in conjunction with the TPS.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 565
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Yeah, my cruise doesn't work had it turn off under recall, I wonder if that could have anything to do with this. It was acting up before I had it disconnected, I wonder if it had gotten hot and maybe burned something up.
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 36
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Go back to the basics!
You are throwing parts at it and that is a sure way to throw money away and walk away frustrated.
This sounds like it could be a grounding issue. Anytime you set THAT many codes there is obviously something screwy.
Go check your grounds. You need good solid non corroded grounds. Ground problems can cause a huge myriad of problems exactly like you are describing.
You are throwing parts at it and that is a sure way to throw money away and walk away frustrated.
This sounds like it could be a grounding issue. Anytime you set THAT many codes there is obviously something screwy.
Go check your grounds. You need good solid non corroded grounds. Ground problems can cause a huge myriad of problems exactly like you are describing.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 565
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I think I've narrowed it down to the MAF sensor. I've looking up alot of stuff on the internet and the symptoms it causes and they sound like the ones I'm having. I just sprayed it with electrical cleaner, but it didn't work. I guess I'll have to buy one and put it on.
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