Hinge Pin Replacement
#17
Well I got it done today. I was hoping to remove the hinge from the truck but that was imposable. There are three bolts that hold the hinge to the truck that I could not get to. I tried to use a 1/2 socket on a unerversal with a extension but it was to tight to get to the bolts.
So what I did was put the door on a jack with a helper and removed the two bolts that hold each hinge to the door. After you remove the bolts you can jack the door up a little and slide it back to give you some room to work. I cut the bottom pin in the middle with a saws all and pry ed at the cut with a screwdriver and the bottom half of the pin came right out.
For the top half of the pin I got the blade of the saws all between the two Pisces of the hinge and cut the the pin there and the hinge came out. the bushings will come out if you work on them with a screwdriver and hammer.
For the top hinge cut the pin and pop out the bottom half by prying at the cut with a screwdriver. I could not get the blade in to cut the top of the pin out like i did with the bottom one so I took one of the new pins installed it up through the bottom hole and taped on it with a hammer to get the top half of the old pin out.
After you get the old bushings out the new ones will go in easy by putting them in place and squeezing them down with a pliers and then tapping them the rest of the way with a hammer.
#19
PS......... If you want to remove the hinge from the truck you will need a 1/4 drive 13mm swivel socket and a 1/4 inch drive extension about 10 inches long. A 13mm socket on a swivel joint would not get in that tight spot for me. I got them from sears last night because my door still needed adjustment after I put the new pins. If you get or have the sockets you need to adjust the hinges you MIGHT NOT have to go through the hole replace the pins trip. But I guess that depends on the condition of your old pins and bushings.http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...+Flex&sLevel=0
#21
Thats what I thought. When I removed the old bushings I could see they still had plenty of meat on them but I could lift the door and it was hitting the striker. We had the same problem with a f350 we have at work. When we got it back from the body shop they sent it to I took a look to see what they did and I could see that the pins and bushings were not replaced and the were the same hinges and I could still lift the door. I looked to me like the just adjusted the hinges to straighten things out. That was about a year ago and the door still works fine. So you might be able to avoid the hole change the pin pain in the *** deal. Adjusting the hinges is also a pita but it might save you some work.
#22
Thats what I thought. When I removed the old bushings I could see they still had plenty of meat on them but I could lift the door and it was hitting the striker. We had the same problem with a f350 we have at work. When we got it back from the body shop they sent it to I took a look to see what they did and I could see that the pins and bushings were not replaced and the were the same hinges and I could still lift the door. I looked to me like the just adjusted the hinges to straighten things out. That was about a year ago and the door still works fine. So you might be able to avoid the hole change the pin pain in the *** deal. Adjusting the hinges is also a pita but it might save you some work.
#24
Yes! And In my humble opinion if you have SOME up and down play you can save yourself some work by just adjusting the hinges. I had a lot of play but the old bushings were still pretty thick so I might have been able to get away with just a adjustment on the hinges. But like Talyn said its a short cut. So its up to you. Like I said we have a truck at work that is doing well for about a year now with just a hinge adjustment and it still has a lot of play in it if you lift on the door. And if you think about it they made the hinges adjustable for a reason and compensating for normal ware might be it.
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