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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 12:57 PM
  #46  
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now the craziest thing happened...

i was tinkin around on the truck.. and yes i used some starting fluid.. and it started rite up.

and it stayed running for ten minutes at least. untill i turned it off.

if the IP was bad would it allow to run for that long???

or is my problem actually somewhere else?

keein in mind my last post.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 03:36 PM
  #47  
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im goin to a salvage yard to get a used one...

anything to keep in mind while removing the injection pump?? any special steps?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 05:23 PM
  #48  
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not too much removing the pump.
but there are special steps to install.
i would wait to hear from Dave for precise installation instructions.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 09:15 PM
  #49  
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Well if the truck ran for 10 mins plus, i would be skeptical of the IP, how did it sound running? Was it solid and smooth or very rough, if it was smooth, i would doubt the IP. Just sounds damn weird! I am not in the know as to what it is specifically, but i would doubt the IP if it can run on its own that long.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 09:46 PM
  #50  
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Sounds like air intrusion to me.
you messed around with the pump and lines, got the air out.
what ever the leak is was better, but still lose.
The truck ran tell it rattled lose and got air in again.
If it is not that than maybe the IP wire is lose.
Good enuf for the click test but cranking the motor rattles it so it does not give power to the IP solenoid.
were are you? if you are close i will come look at it for you.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 11:22 PM
  #51  
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Right now I can lean three ways on this.

Not cranking fast enough.
Air intrusion that you cranked the engine long enough to replace the air with fuel.
Or the injection pump is actually going bad.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 12:45 AM
  #52  
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after starting that one time. it would start rite away after that but not since then...
i dont really wanna mess w either anymore.

answer me this. if it was air intrusion wouldnt it start after a bit of cranking(fuel replacing the air)??


if its cranking slower than normal. then i cant tell the difference.

and by the way... bill i am in arizona.. i see ur in texas, thats a lil far but thanks for bein willin to help.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 01:06 AM
  #53  
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I'm still going to say IP. Seen your exact problem on two other trucks when I was working with Camden Automotive Diesel service, and my truck done it as well. Could spin and spin and spin and it wouldn't crank (even with battery booster to ensure batteries had enough output). They would fire off every time with ether and would run til the cows come home but would not start on their own (glow plugs was the first I checked) If it was air I agree it should start after some point unless you have a GIANT air leak and one that big would be losing fuel somewhere. On all three trucks I have experienced this with, once I replaced the IP's the problem went away and started as they should on half a rotation after GP cycle.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 05:35 PM
  #54  
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alrite i found an IP pump and im gonna go get it later.. anything to look out for when i get it?? its used..

although the guy im gettin it ftom said he will reimburse me if it doesnt work.

so what do i look out for>>>?????
 
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 10:17 AM
  #55  
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dave!!! i need you!!

lol.

anything to look out for when i get this IP.???
 
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 10:33 AM
  #56  
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bump on this last post, i wouldnt know what to look for but initially if he is offering to reimburse that would make me feel a lot better. Anyone else?
 
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 01:41 PM
  #57  
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Without putting it on test equipment, a non working IP is going to look exactly like a working IP.

No visual clues and no tests you can use to tell the difference.

And after thinking about my post above, I actually can lean four ways by adding non working glow plugs.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 01:46 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by doube_zero
I'm still going to say IP. Seen your exact problem on two other trucks when I was working with Camden Automotive Diesel service, and my truck done it as well. Could spin and spin and spin and it wouldn't crank (even with battery booster to ensure batteries had enough output). They would fire off every time with ether and would run til the cows come home but would not start on their own (glow plugs was the first I checked) If it was air I agree it should start after some point unless you have a GIANT air leak and one that big would be losing fuel somewhere. On all three trucks I have experienced this with, once I replaced the IP's the problem went away and started as they should on half a rotation after GP cycle.
I hope you read this part in my post. Check the glow plugs first before you finally comdemn the IP. I wrote this on the assumption that you already have done this.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 02:09 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
Without putting it on test equipment, a non working IP is going to look exactly like a working IP.

No visual clues and no tests you can use to tell the difference.

And after thinking about my post above, I actually can lean four ways by adding non working glow plugs.

would the glow plugs make it not start in the kind of heat phoenix has to offer? and after running it and coming back to it after about 20-30 mins??

all the glow plugs are new as of three weeks ago...
 
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 02:16 PM
  #60  
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It is not the glow plugs.
Dave, how do you test a IP?
 
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