When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am noticing that my batteries aren't getting up to where they should be after I start the truck and the glow plugs go offline. I'm suspecting the alternator here. What would be the sensors that I should have on my autoenginuity to be reading while I do a little trip to see if it truly is the alternator? I'm fairly sure it's not the batteries as they are only 2 months old, unless I was just unlucky enough to get a bad batch.
I haven't pulled codes yet, so maybe it does thru a certain code as well, but I was hoping there there were specific sensors that would let me know if I am having alternator problems.
just monitor the voltage on the system, not sure if you can monitor ALT output. if not if you have DMM, just rig somthing up to monitor the alternator output in the cab while driving.
whats the voltage on the bats with the truck running and the truck off.
Well I have to guess on the volts due to the range of display on my analog gauge, but before cranking it's like 10.1 to maybe 11, somewhere in there. After the glow plugs kick off it's 13 to maybe 13.8 depending on what electronics and at what volume(if applicable) I may have it on.
It's the ~10.1 before I crank it that has me worried more then anything.
I'll check to see if I can monitor Alt. Output(if it's on the OBD-II I should be able to) and if I can what do I need to be looking for?
woth everything off i thought it should be closer to 14.4 or so. but if you get 13.13.8 its to much flactuation id say. time to get updated HD alternator
woth everything off i thought it should be closer to 14.4 or so. but if you get 13.13.8 its to much flactuation id say. time to get updated HD alternator
Well I have never gotten past 14, but I'm running a crap load of electronics that I'm sure is bringing it down. Some I can't take offline. Radar detector, gauges etc. Even the radio I can't completely power down as there is always something on the screen even if all the functions are shut off. It might be how all that stuff is wired, I don't know. I'm not a fan of electrical issues.
What does an alternator usually run(factory to aftermarket)? I've really never kept a vehicle to the point it needed one before.
See if there's a shop around you with a snap-on AVR, that will check Volts, Amps and diode pattern. It will leave no questions about the condition of your charging system or batteries.
you gauges your radioand radar detector wont draw enough to load the alt that much...and dont know the prices on alt.
might be just a diode pack-regulator.. can you take it out and have it tested?or have them tested when you go to any automotive place, some have free eval on electrical systems...
talk to Larry - toolman05KR, he rebuilds them
woth everything off i thought it should be closer to 14.4 or so. but if you get 13.13.8 its to much flactuation id say. time to get updated HD alternator
Yea pete, one of our 200A 6G alternators will fix it right up.
ESOF , had it on my 2001 had the same problem , working not working, ended up replacing all dustseals, and o-rings in the hubs, and found a vacum leak too.
and all i can say Larry is a great guy....
all off - 12-12.5v
cranking - 10.5-11v
running - 14-14.4v
at list thats what i remembered.
you dont want it to go to close to 10 or below , it will Kill you FICM...
When you start, the volts can be as low as 11.5 at the battery, (guages usually read about 3/4 volt lower because your tapping off a key on-off line) once you start the amps can be 100 or more, depending on temp. and the volts will be low, about 12.4 to 12.7 and after 90 to 120 seconds it should jump the voltage to 14.1 or better and the amps should drop at the same time. 30 amps or lower at this stage is normal. Let me know how you make out.