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When you start, the volts can be as low as 11.5 at the battery, (guages usually read about 3/4 volt lower because your tapping off a key on-off line)
Mine read almost down to 10 volts on some days. What would they be if I'm using the volts from the OBD-II reading? I'm fixing to do that in a bit.
Originally Posted by toolman05kr
after 90 to 120 seconds it should jump the voltage to 14.1 or better and the amps should drop at the same time. 30 amps or lower at this stage is normal. Let me know how you make out.
I've never gotten better then 13.8 at any time that I've owned the truck and I've owned the truck since it had 20 miles on it and that was well over 120k miles ago.
since you taking the voltage at OBD port you might be up to .75v off- lower, than your voltage at the batteries.
13.8 would be fine , but 13 is not good....
Evan - Sarge and I have been talking to Ohio Generator about an aftermarket heavy-duty alternator - price around $500. Let me know if you want more info.
edit:
6G large case alt.
press fit high amp rectifier and diodes
225-245 peak amps
100-110 at idle
They use the stock charge wire and we are required to add a 4 gauge wire to the primary battery so all the current doesnt enter the fuse block.
They all come with a dyno sheet for all rpms, 1 yr. warranty made in the USA.
Mine read almost down to 10 volts on some days. What would they be if I'm using the volts from the OBD-II reading? I'm fixing to do that in a bit.
I think the obd should be a little higher, 10 to 10.5 is what I get on my truck if I park it for more then a few days.
I've never gotten better then 13.8 at any time that I've owned the truck and I've owned the truck since it had 20 miles on it and that was well over 120k miles ago.
The regulators on these alternators are tempature sensitive, the higher the temp, the lower the voltage. In texas 13.8 is probably normal where up north here 14 to 14.2 can be normal. Now, with 120K on the truck, if this is the origional alternator, the brushes have more then likely wore thru the rotor slip ring, It's the most common failure we see on these alternators and it usually happens well before 100k.
The regulators on these alternators are tempature sensitive, the higher the temp, the lower the voltage. In texas 13.8 is probably normal where up north here 14 to 14.2 can be normal. Now, with 120K on the truck, if this is the origional alternator, the brushes have more then likely wore thru the rotor slip ring, It's the most common failure we see on these alternators and it usually happens well before 100k.
+1 ........ The best I do is 13.8V to 13.9V (way down South)
The regulators on these alternators are tempature sensitive, the higher the temp, the lower the voltage. In texas 13.8 is probably normal where up north here 14 to 14.2 can be normal.
I'm a 6th generation native texan, however, I live in the great yankee state of TN now.
Originally Posted by toolman05kr
Now, with 120K on the truck, if this is the origional alternator, the brushes have more then likely wore thru the rotor slip ring, It's the most common failure we see on these alternators and it usually happens well before 100k.
Not really want I want to hear, but I can understand that.
Well I just did Key On, Engine Off readings. I used Autoenginuity to pull from the OBD port, a hand held volt meter and my analog gauge.
The software and the hand held were both telling me at best with just the key on I got 11.88 and my analog gauge was given me just a smidgeon of antique beige between the needle and 12, so I'm going to take that as close to 11.88. I have to run some errands tomorrow and I'll try to datalog all my readings from just key on, to cranking to driving down the road and I'll post back on that. What has me worried are my readings right after cranking and while driving down the road, I have a wide sweep of readings off my analog gauge.
I was kinda surprised with the reading I was getting from the port. I was expecting a lower reading due to all the wire that current had to travel thru, but it was pretty damn close to the same from all three sources and two tap right into the battery.
Just went throught this. One easy thing to check before you fork out cash for a new alt is the connector that plugs into your alternator. I replaced my alt and was still getting under 13 volts constantly.
The wire side connectors inside the plug had spread just enough to not send the signal for the alt to charge.
I am in 90* and have only seen 14 volts once. I usually run in the 13's once started and running.
Well here is the deal. I went ahead and did one of my errands today, did a quick trip to walgreens.
Amb. Temps: 68-70 according to a/c control computer
Trip: about 11 miles(it did get up to normal operating temp according to both ECT gauges)
Analog gauge was actually giving me the lowest reading. The best that it got to was 12.5-12.6. If I was stopped at a light it then shot down to 12, so it wasn't consistent.
According to the OBD-II port, the best that I saw was 13.25, the vast majority of the time it was 12.7-12.8 according to the csv sheets that I created by datalogging the trip.
well Tex, put me on the same list of failed alternators.
the truck berly started this am. i get 12.5v while truck is running on the batteries, and they drop below 12v next morning . and lower than that when GP are on.....
so time for new alternator and maybe batteries..... i have to do it before Carlisle....
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