Pink Wire on Ignition Switch Getting Hot
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Pink Wire on Ignition Switch Getting Hot
I noticed today when I was troubleshooting the Brake Lt and Turn Signal problem that there is a Pink wire that comes off the ignition switch. It has a thermal blanket type insulator around it and when it gets close to the switch where the insulation stops the wire gets really hot. Its not burning but its pretty dang hot. So I was wondering if this is normal or is the possibly another problem? Its the heat insulation that makes me think this wire just must get hot. Also another thing I noticed today is that the 3rd fuse down from the top on the fuse panel has no voltage to it. Again the markings on the fuse panel are hard to read so that is why I am asking what its for. Thanks for any help you can give with this problem.
JRB65
JRB65
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From: Escondido, CA
The pink wire is actually a resitance wire for the ignition system. If you can find an unfaded section of the wire it will tell you what the resistance is. Also what year truck is it? There are several places you can find the fuse blocks identifiers if you do a google search of your year make model.
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From: Centralia, WA
Here's a picture of the fuse block I removed from my 65 Custom Cab when I rewired it. It's not pretty, but the lettering is still there so you can see what each fuse is labeled. Hopefully it's the same as yours.
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From: seattle
Thats an ugly fuse block...but the stenciling is premo...also confirms what I thought but wasnt 100% sure about...that both t/signals and stop lights are covered by same fuse...along with the radio too if you have it
Excellent pic.
- cs65
Excellent pic.
- cs65
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Thanks for the picture. I was thinking mine was in bad shape till I saw this one. Now I know what is what. I guess that the 3rd one down is for the instrument panel but it seems that all the lites and guages are working on the instrument panel. I guess that as long as everything is working I dont need to worry about it too much.
JRB65
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From: Stanton, Michigan, USA
I'd also make a note as to what fuses are there and pick up one spare of each then slip them into an envelope and into the glovebox in case you need them at a later date. Not all auto stores carry the old style fuses and that's when/where you'll need them..... JMHO.......
BarnieTrk
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From: Escondido, CA
I was just admiring the fact that 40 plus years ago you only needed a test light and 5 fuses to troubleshoot your electrical system. Now we need an ocilloscope just to figure out why the turn signal doesn't work. Ah technology, it makes you life so simple doesn't it?
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Maybe not, but before re-installing it, I think I'd hit that panel with a mist of WD-40....to try to kill the corrosion and improve the electrical contacts a little. Yeah, it may attract some dust, but to slow/stop the corrosion and improve the electrical contacts would be a worthwhile tradeoff.
I'd also make a note as to what fuses are there and pick up one spare of each then slip them into an envelope and into the glovebox in case you need them at a later date. Not all auto stores carry the old style fuses and that's when/where you'll need them..... JMHO.......
BarnieTrk
I'd also make a note as to what fuses are there and pick up one spare of each then slip them into an envelope and into the glovebox in case you need them at a later date. Not all auto stores carry the old style fuses and that's when/where you'll need them..... JMHO.......
BarnieTrk
When I had the fuses out I sprayed contact cleaner in it and hit it with a brass brush. The contacts are looking much better. I didn't know you could use WD40 as a contact cleaner but I guess its a solvent so I guess it would clean the contacts. Good info to know. I have already put a box of miscelaneous fuses with the correct sizes in the glovebox (Just In Case). I had the Transmission and the Diff serviced this morning and the guy greased the truck. I think he used a half a gallon of grease on this thing. NO MORE SQUEEKS, Thank God. I am really getting to like the way this truck drives. It doesn't drift all over the road and it steers strait and no pulling when applying the brakes. I looked at the rear brakes and decided to replace the shoes because they are worn bad. The fronts look almost like new. I was wondering why I couldn't get the Emergency brake to work but I am starting to understand. Thanks again for the help.
JRB65
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From: seattle
question for ya...what does the W in WD40 stand for ?? Give up...good ole water...the proof is in the pudding...case in point...several years ago when I put my truck in mothballs...so to speak...and had my camper on it I took the tailgate hardware off of the bed...before doing so I worked the bolts in and out umpteen times and cleaned the threads up clean as day one till I could screw the bolts all the way in by hand...fast forward about 3 years and 3 hard NW winters and rainy seasons. Upon bring truck out of its slumber I sold the camper and wanted to put the tailgate back on...simple enough...right...not so quick...when I did those bolts prior I used good ole WD40 as a lube...so when I go to try to remove said bolts for the hinges and side support straps on the bed...they all didnt come off..2 broke...1 of the side strap bolts and a hinge bolt...both broke flush with the bed...instant royal PITA that I still havent fixed...suggestions ??? BTW, removing bed is not an option...
Dont use WD40...it adds moisture to the mix...
- cs65
Dont use WD40...it adds moisture to the mix...
- cs65
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From: Stanton, Michigan, USA
question for ya......what does the W in WD40 stand for ??
Give up...good ole water...the proof is in the pudding...I used good ole WD40 as a lube...so when I go to try to remove said bolts for the hinges and side support straps on the bed...they all didnt come off..2 broke...1 of the side strap bolts and a hinge bolt...both broke flush with the bed.. Dont use WD40...it adds moisture to the mix... - cs65
Give up...good ole water...the proof is in the pudding...I used good ole WD40 as a lube...so when I go to try to remove said bolts for the hinges and side support straps on the bed...they all didnt come off..2 broke...1 of the side strap bolts and a hinge bolt...both broke flush with the bed.. Dont use WD40...it adds moisture to the mix... - cs65
Regarding the 'W', that's not what the makers say....http://www.wd40.com/about-us/history/
BarnieTrk
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From: Glendale Arizona
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From: Simi Valley, CA
1960/72 Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil
I noticed today when I was troubleshooting the Brake Lt and Turn Signal problem that there is a Pink wire that comes off the ignition switch. It has a thermal blanket type insulator around it and when it gets close to the switch where the insulation stops the wire gets really hot. Its not burning but its pretty dang hot.
Fits: ALL 1960/72 cars/trucks.
Color coded PINK / 61.50" long / 1.30 - 1.40 ohms resistance / #20 gauge wire.
LYLE FORD-MERCURY in Eagle Grove IA has ONE = 800-397-6319.
JST AUTOMOTIVE in Lebanon TN has ONE = 615-443-3086.
GREEN SALES COMPANY in Cincinnati OH has TWO = 800-543-4959
DON SANDERSON FORD in Glendale AZ has FOUR = 623-842-8762.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has ELEVEN = 606-787-5293.
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COLF12250A .. Resister Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY37) / Obsolete
Fits: ALL 1960/72 cars/trucks.
Color coded PINK / 61.50" long / 1.30 - 1.40 ohms resistance / #20 gauge wire.
JST AUTOMOTIVE in Lebanon TN has ONE = 615-443-3086.
GREEN SALES COMPANY in Cincinnati OH has TWO = 800-543-4959
DON SANDERSON FORD in Glendale AZ has FOUR = 623-842-8762.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has ELEVEN = 606-787-5293.
Fits: ALL 1960/72 cars/trucks.
Color coded PINK / 61.50" long / 1.30 - 1.40 ohms resistance / #20 gauge wire.
JST AUTOMOTIVE in Lebanon TN has ONE = 615-443-3086.
GREEN SALES COMPANY in Cincinnati OH has TWO = 800-543-4959
DON SANDERSON FORD in Glendale AZ has FOUR = 623-842-8762.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has ELEVEN = 606-787-5293.
I will throw a Ohmmeter on it and check the resistance. If its bad I will order a new one. Thanks for the info.
JRB65
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I just started having some issues randomly, after my truck suffered from vapor lock and ran its self out of fuel, and a bit of cranking to get it started again, i noticed my fuel, temp and oil gauges stopped working. my battery gauge still works, and my oil pressure warning light still works, the illumination works as well. my book told me it could be a bad voltage regulator, changed that out and no bueno, any ideas? thanks
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