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Old Jul 17, 2009 | 01:34 PM
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L&l

I was looking at the conversion kits for the 460 swap for the 78 f250 on the l&l website, and my question is, do I really need the whole kit? It's over a thousand dollars! What parts do I have to have, and what parts can I gat around. I really want this swap to be as simple as possible, so if I have to get the whole kit I will. but I would like to know from you guys if Im wasting money buying the whole thing

here is the link to the kit
http://www.landlproducts.com/details...04&ItemID=1141
 
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Old Jul 17, 2009 | 01:44 PM
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Consider that this kit comes with many small items that make this swap a slight struggle. Then consider that this particualr kit comes with headers that sell for almost 600 bucks.
Can you getaround it? Sure if you plan on running stock manifolds, and have time to run to a from the salvage yard for brackets.
I guess what it comes down to is convenience. How much is the convenience factor worth?
 
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Old Jul 17, 2009 | 02:02 PM
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I used the L+L kit when I swapped in my 429 in the 250, aluminum pulleys, headers and all the needed brackets were right there. I'll buy another kit from them if I ever do another 429/460 swap.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2009 | 02:41 PM
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I used there header and engine mounts when i put my 429 in my 80. You cant beat their headers. No gaskets to blow, and no crappy flanges to warp
 
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Old Jul 17, 2009 | 03:02 PM
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That's right, the flanges are very thick.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2009 | 03:28 PM
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I'd have to add things up, but you may want to consider just buying things separate than the entire kit. You'll save few bucks. I know the headers were cheaper through Broncograveyard than through L&L by about $100. Something to consider.

I didn't go with the kit for my 77 F250 460 swap, but kinda struggled to find all the brackets and pully's from donor trucks.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2009 | 09:01 PM
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I'm not happy with my right side L&L header. The welds are crappy & it points down in the rear. Motor mounts weren't any better. I had to cut the tower holes back quite a bit. I couldn't even slide the trans & transfer case back enough to make a difference they were so bad. I'm thinking I'll try some other mfgr next time.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2009 | 10:32 PM
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You can also use 2wd headers and notch the frame 1/4 inch towards the rear of the block. Very minmal notch and there is plenty of header options for 2wd even ceramic coated for around $300

The great thing I noticed was that the headers dont hang down as much
 
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 79n40z
You can also use 2wd headers and notch the frame 1/4 inch towards the rear of the block. Very minmal notch and there is plenty of header options for 2wd even ceramic coated for around $300

The great thing I noticed was that the headers dont hang down as much

Where are you cutting the frame at exactly? Not the top rail I hope? I have never seen one that did not break after it had been cut. Honest, I have seen several frames cut in the upper area for header clearance and I have yet to see one that has survived.
4wd drive frames have quite a bit of stress on the area above the shackle, and once the frame is cut here, even a small amount it has a tendancy to tear, and cracks develop. This is true for any location of thre frame. Forward or aft of this area seems to break, and once in a while they break without being cut.



The L&L stuff looks real nice, though I did have a quality issue with my last set of headers. I sent them out to be re-coated. DOnt know why they looked like a$$ when they arrived but they did. After some re-coating, they look beautiful.
Notice the extra thick flange:

 
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 04:53 PM
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F350 Where did you get them recoated? Are you running a front sump oil pan? I see an oil dip stick coming up from the timing chain cover.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 05:39 PM
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These are "Jet Hot" coated. If you can see, these were the same headers, and did not look very nice when they arrived. Guys at L&L were nice about it and offered to send me some new ones, but I was concerned that they might look the same, so I sent some stuff out to get coated, and sent the headers out too.





Yes, you do notice a front sump pan. Much of my crew cab is done because many have said would either not work or it cant be done, so,,,,,here we are.
My Superduty wheels have been succesfully re-drilled, and the ZF trans works with the early engine, and bolts up to the Np 205.
Fun stuff really...........
 
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 75F350
These are "Jet Hot" coated. If you can see, these were the same headers, and did not look very nice when they arrived. Guys at L&L were nice about it and offered to send me some new ones, but I was concerned that they might look the same, so I sent some stuff out to get coated, and sent the headers out too.





Yes, you do notice a front sump pan. Much of my crew cab is done because many have said would either not work or it cant be done, so,,,,,here we are.
My Superduty wheels have been succesfully re-drilled, and the ZF trans works with the early engine, and bolts up to the Np 205.
Fun stuff really...........
That has me interested. How recent of a 460 can I put into my truck?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 08:44 PM
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Thats about how mine looked but I don't care, they are getting pretty rusty now. That 1/2" flange is really over kill too.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by adam83
That has me interested. How recent of a 460 can I put into my truck?

How current the engine is entirely up to you. I dont see why the year has to be a limiting factor.
Dimensionally, the most current FI 460 would go right in. Not so many things that different that would prevent this from happening.
Some brackets and such, but the 460 has remained about the same for many years. Only small differences.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 09:46 PM
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Crew???

You have a Crew Cab Ed??
 
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