With the under hood temps being rea;;y hih on our beasts, can i get away with fabbing up a PVC intake? Would it get too hot for it? My guess is no but i have heard both sides, so i found a insulating wrap that has metal tape on one side and a foam on the otherside with adhesive; all about 3/16" thick. Could i use the pvc and wrap it or juse use a thick pvc pipe? I currently have the stiff aluminum ducting but it is too flimsy.

 

4" single wall metal vent pipe and the adjustable elbows for it works very well.

Much easier to work with than rigid PVC with only 90, 45, 22.5 and if you are lucky 11.25 degree elbows.

Just be careful, the edges will cut you like a razor if it slips.



Mine starts off 3.5 x 10 inches for the scoop.
Transitions to 6" round heat duct
Then another transition from 6" round to 4" round.
4" adjustable elbow
And now a piece of 4" metal vent pipe into the ATS filter housing.

All the parts except the scoop and transition to 6" round are available at most hardware stores.
I fabricated the scoop and rectangle to round transition myself.

 

very nice dave!!!
how much HP would i get out of it with my non turbo 6.9?
How much would it let me turn my pump up?

 

this looks awesome if i can fab up the beginning, most of my question is whether the pvc can handle the heat?

 

You will notice the difference, both in power and reduced smoke.
You don't get much pressure in the intake, but it eliminates the slight vacuum from filter restriction.
Also the cooler air from out front helps.

Caution though, if you do this mod, the scoop must be unhooked when driving in snow.
The snow will coat the filter with ice and given enough time will choke the engine out from lack of air.

Rain is not a problem.

As for PVC, that is basicly what the stock black piece going to my air box is, it did just fine till the air pressure shoved it off the air cleaner housing one day and it landed on my exhaust manifold.

I am now running metal pipe all the way to the air cleaner box since I have never found a replacement for it.

From the front.



Can you tell I used to do HVAC work?

 

can I turn the pump up a flat more with this set up?

 

Till you are running 45 or 50 MPH, the amount of air entering the cylinders will be close to the same.
Yes it will be cooler, and that does help.
But,

So if you increase the fuel delivery, you are going to roll black smoke every time you take off unless you really light foot the throttle.

With a turbo, as soon as the RPM start increasing, the boost comes up.
Somewhere between 1000 and 1500 RPM I have over 10 PSI boost.

That is putting almost twice as much air in my cylinders as you are getting.

There is no substitute for a turbo on a diesel engine.

Even this is no comparison.

 

whos truck is this on? is there anymore pics of it?

 

Something that was for sale on E bay a while back.

I can't remember, but he was asking almost double high book if I remember right.

Nice truck, but not worth what he was asking.

 

thats an idi with a superxharger right?

 

Yup. Just because he could I guess.

I understand doing something different for the sake of being different, but considering how superior a turbocharger is for a diesel, I had a hard time grasping that one.

 

The factory IDI Turbo intake uses a plastic cold air scoop and pipe, and the Hypermax cowl induction intake uses ABS plastic. I think you would be find using PVC, but if you are super concerned about temp, they do make high temp PVC pipe used in fire sprinkler systems. The fire sprinkler high-temp PVC pipe is orange.

 

Why I preffer the single wall 4" vent pipe over PVC is the elbow.

That elbow in my intake between the 6 to 4 round reducer and the black pipe can be adjusted to any angle between 90 degrees and 0 degrees by turning the four segments in relation to each other.

With PVC, you have to buy a rigid fitting.
Need 67 degrees, then two fittings, a 45 and a 22.5 get you 67.5 degrees.

But if you need 57 degrees, you better hope you can find an 11.25 degree bend to add to the 45 or you are SOL.

Metal is so much easier to work with.
Tin snips to cut.
Pop rivit gun to join
Drill for holes
Tongs or a brake to bend angles.
Hammer for emergency spot clearance.

Between vent pipe and HVAC forced air pipe, you have a ton of factory fittings at better prices that PVC.
And all of them can be modified with a few basic tools.

 

If you look on line you can find 4" aluminum tubbing and the same company makes a 3" ABS (a type of plastic) that has a chrome finish and O ring joints both with bends from 15 deg. to 45. I do belive...
I have the 4" aluminum on my IDI that I realy like, and am startting to build the 3" ABS ones for my Wifes trailblazer.

 

So in my head of heads with all my profound brain things i tried the stiff aluminum ducting the 5" size. I noticed that the beast was running hotter than usual and when i popped the hood the intake tube was absorbing a lot of radiant heat and was hot to the touch. So i went looking for something and found it. Pipe wrap that is adhesive foam on one side, about 3/16" thick and aluminum tape on the other side. So i wrapped the tube with it creating a solid pipe that is quite stable now, the plain tube was quite mobile regardless of how i secured it and it wore holes in it. So now my temps are way down, around 100C less than before and it feels a lot better at take off. I used a vent cover that had the vent fins on the face and screen behind it. i used my dremel tool to cut off the fins and so now it is screen covered not to restrict air flow and the beast takes deep breaths with ease. For 12 dollars in total material it is hard to find a better 5in intake.

On another note, would it be less air flow restriction to cut out the vertical plate in the air intake housing that is in the way to divert air either left or right? Has anyone done it? Anyone running K&N air filters? Maybe some better airflow is yet in my future?