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1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  
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Need Help Major oil problem

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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 07:08 AM
  #16  
riverrat41's Avatar
riverrat41
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From: Glen Rose,Texas
Club FTE Silver Member

^^^^Great advise all above me here but I had installed too fat an o-ring on one of the lines and did not know it was cutting the o-ring on the outer edge.Plus the o-ring was not the right mos and it was very soft.It would last for about 3 days and then leak again.I finally went to Ford and bought the correct mos and size.This solved the problem.I never dreamed it could puke out that much oil coming by the o-ring.Hope you geter fixed up!
 
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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 12:40 PM
  #17  
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lpfd778
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From: Moberly
well more bad luck on the oil leak front i went and got the proper o-rings and used lock tite after cleaning everything so you could eat off of it and leting it dry and put back togather let locktite sit for about 72 hours just to be on the safe side and went to start it and it is still seeping and there is no cracks or any thing went and had a scanner put on it and the icp pressures are 680 at idel and 1200 at 3000 rpm go figre so my luck continues to run bad for right now going to try and figure somthing else that coud be causing this problem thanks for all the help
 
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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 01:12 PM
  #18  
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Nick 99
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From: La Mesa, Ca.
Is it possible that the threads are worn from "Fixing" the leak so often? Maybe a new plug is in order.
Nick
 
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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 01:56 PM
  #19  
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jk_hooper
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Uniontown KY
What color lock tite did you use?
 
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 12:41 AM
  #20  
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lpfd778
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From: Moberly
it was the loc tite 680 the one that every one recomended that still dosent really explain the low pressure at the higher rpm i dont think that much could be seeping by to drop the pressure that much
 
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Old Jul 19, 2009 | 09:45 AM
  #21  
FireMe's Avatar
FireMe
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Northfield, MI
That pressure sounds fine to me. Oil pressure in the injector system is proportional to load, not RPM, so unless that was taken at WOT on the freeway, there is nothing wrong with 1200 psi.

As far as the continued leak... The way I always repair them is to pull the bottom plug first and then the two oil line adapters. I then hose out the internals from the top with about half a can of brake cleaner to remove all of the oil possible, flushing everything out the bottom plug hole. I then blow out the inside with compressed air to remove as much of everything as possible. You must realize that oil will still eventually seep out of the bottom hole, so acting quickly, I give the bottom hole one more quick shot of brake cleaner, dry it with a very small amount of compressed air, then install the already-prepared plug and torque gently. If you overtourqe the plug you will distort the seat where the o-ring sits and it will never seal again. Let it sit for an hour or so while you reassemble the rest of the parts, and fire it up. The LocTite doesn't take a real long time to cure.

As a former dealership tech, I've done literally hundreds of these repairs and never had to repeat it on a vehicle after I got my system down. When Ford first came out with the TSB on the o-rings, I was frustrated with the oil always dripping out of the hole when trying to reassemble, and had a couple of repeat repairs, so I came up with the procedure above. Never had one come back again leaking.

Jay
 
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