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I've had them go easy and had one that I had to remove the fender just to get a swing at it. I would soak it with a good penatrant and try and get some greese into the fittings. Here everything seizes solid due to salt and that 's is where most of the trouble comes from. Once the new bushings are pressed into the spindle you may need to get them machined to fit the new kingpins.
It's easier to just remove the I-beam and take that in to have the pin pressed out and have the new ones pressed in. At the same time you can replace the radius arm bushings if they are toast and also the I-beam bushings.
YES! Well they can be. When I did mine one side was a real pain. You'll need a torch and a big hammer. First I would try heating things up and forcing some grease into it. Be careful as hot grease can come shooting out.
The other tip I got here on FTE was to remove the grease nipple and drill a large hole through the grease cap. You put your punch through the hole and pound away. The grease cap will protect the treads on your spindle. You get new caps with the kingpins.
If you get the king pins with the metal bushings they need to be reamed to fit, the ones with the nylon bushings don't. both last the same it you GREASE them VERY often.
If you get the king pins with the metal bushings they need to be reamed to fit, the ones with the nylon bushings don't. both last the same it you GREASE them VERY often.
So, can the ones with nylon bushings be installed at home then?
I'd go with the metal bushings, do it once right and you'll never have to do it again. My 79 has 130,000 miles on the original pins and bushings and they are still good. It does get greesed more than the average truck, but if you replace yours with the steel ones and keep the greese to them, they'll more than likely never go again.