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I have been reading on here about the drawbacks of green coolant and I am going to flush my system this week and fill with Rotella ELC. Can someone give me a quick run down of the flush procedure and how its done... Also, any tips or anything else I should know before I do it?
Get yourself about 20 gallons of distilled water. Drain the radiator and keep refilling with distilled until it comes out clear (don't forget to run the heater and let the truck warm up enough to open the 'stat). When it's clear (hopefully you have 3-4 gallons of distilled left), drain, pour 4 gallons of the concentrated ELC in. Top off with distilled. Carry a jug of distilled with you in case some air pockets work their way out.
That's it! Enjoy 300k of maintenance free coolant!
If you couple this effort with new hoses and a new stat, it is simpler due to being able to leave out the stat and not having to let the truck get warm enough to open it up. Also, there are some block drain plugs, one on each side, which you can also remove and help with the initial drain effort to minimize flushing time. Passenger side is above the starter and the driver side plug is to the rear of the engine oil filter head (there are actually two square recessed drive plugs behind the filter head, but the one you want is the smaller of the two which is alos mounted a little higher in the block - the lower andlarger one goes into the oil sum pan). A quarter-inch socket drive extension works perfect for the two block drain plugs.
Get yourself about 20 gallons of distilled water. Drain the radiator and keep refilling with distilled until it comes out clear (don't forget to run the heater and let the truck warm up enough to open the 'stat). When it's clear (hopefully you have 3-4 gallons of distilled left), drain, pour 4 gallons of the concentrated ELC in. Top off with distilled. Carry a jug of distilled with you in case some air pockets work their way out.
That's it! Enjoy 300k of maintenance free coolant!
I have a small leak at the water pump. I had the pump replaced a while back and now its leaking at the gasket. I need to get this taken care of before I do the change, so it may be a little while. Also, in previous vehicles I have had I cut one of the heater core hoses, put a T in, and hooked a hose to the T to flush the system (auto parts stores sell the T for this). I plan on doing the AC mod so I would have to cut a heater hose anyway. Is this a bad idea?
Well, it is because that leaves a lot of hard tap water in the system. That's what builds scale and ultimately leads to the demise of the cooling passages. You really want to run only distilled through it.
Well, it is because that leaves a lot of hard tap water in the system. That's what builds scale and ultimately leads to the demise of the cooling passages. You really want to run only distilled through it.
its actually well water( not that that makes a difference).... If I keep this green stuff in for a while, what do I need to do to keep it up?
The T-stat can be either the stock long-stem design or you can "upgrade" to the 203°F stat (stock stat rating is 195°F), but there is some disagreement as to whether or not the higher temp-rated stat is beneficial, especially depending on your level of mods.
$122 in coolant?? Where did you get that price?? Should be no more than about $20/gal. I found Final Charge at Napa for $17 (concentrate). You only need 4 gallons. You could also upgrade to the gold stuff for about $13/gal in concentrate. The green is a PITA because of the whole test strip/additive thing.
I only spent about $80 for coolant when I got the Cat ELC concentrate. The water is pretty cheap at about $0.80-$1.20 per gallon, and if you do the block drain, I am convinced that you really only need about 10 gallons of DI water.
The thing is, once this is done, your DONE until you blow a radiator or heater hose. I went ahead and replaced my upper and lower radiator hoses when I did my system, and should have done the heater hoses at the same time but they seemed to be on good shape.
The ELC is Red, not yellow, and you can get it in a version that requires no additive package or coolant monitoring strips, and it's good for a loooooooong time.
I just got a tidbit.... on the housing.... psssttt.... call Clay!