brakes...
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Bleed Ford Blue
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 13,578
Likes: 157
From: Anchorage Alaska
brakes...
allrighty guys i've done some reading about this subject, but havnt got a solid awsner.
i bought the my '04 4x4 v10 in march, and it had a slight vibration when braking. i assumed rotors so i brought it to my mechanic and he said 2 of the rotors were warped and he went ahead and turned them all for next to nothing. the pads were at about 70% so i kept them and decided to see how it went.
4,500 miles later i have a slight vibration back, i wanna be done with this for good and not have to deal with warped rotors again. so i want to know if there is a solid awsner on what the best was to attack it is.
now my truck is my daily driver, does NOT tow ANYTHING and never will. i do about 500 miles a week. i drive pretty hard and brake pretty hard so i'd like somting that will stop it fast without much fuss.
my plan was to see if this gets any worse, right now its intermittin and very slight. then at that point buy good slotted and drilled rotors and heavy duty pads and hope that solves that for good.
is this a good way to go? any ideas/opinions i would love to hear.
thanks guys!
i bought the my '04 4x4 v10 in march, and it had a slight vibration when braking. i assumed rotors so i brought it to my mechanic and he said 2 of the rotors were warped and he went ahead and turned them all for next to nothing. the pads were at about 70% so i kept them and decided to see how it went.
4,500 miles later i have a slight vibration back, i wanna be done with this for good and not have to deal with warped rotors again. so i want to know if there is a solid awsner on what the best was to attack it is.
now my truck is my daily driver, does NOT tow ANYTHING and never will. i do about 500 miles a week. i drive pretty hard and brake pretty hard so i'd like somting that will stop it fast without much fuss.
my plan was to see if this gets any worse, right now its intermittin and very slight. then at that point buy good slotted and drilled rotors and heavy duty pads and hope that solves that for good.
is this a good way to go? any ideas/opinions i would love to hear.
thanks guys!
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
You asked for the solution that will solve the problem for good, and cryo treated rotors and Hawk pads will do that.
I suffered with the problem and had my rotors turned three times trying to deal with the warped feeling. After much research here and at TDS, I decided on the cryo Powerslots and Hawk LTS pads.
Almost three years later, the brakes are still smooth as silk.
Now, that being said, others have had good luck with other cobbled together brake parts, but you asked for a home run solution, so that's what I gave you.
Stewart
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,151
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From: Moonlight Moose Enclosure
I have a 00 ex and the joke was I belonged to the rotor of the month club.
the slotted are the way to go. Stewart H is right on the money. I learned it is better to invest in top line part for the ex than spend twice as much here and there for cheapie ones because the ex eats cheap parts like chubby kids eat cake. (as my garage description about my ex states)
Good luck
the slotted are the way to go. Stewart H is right on the money. I learned it is better to invest in top line part for the ex than spend twice as much here and there for cheapie ones because the ex eats cheap parts like chubby kids eat cake. (as my garage description about my ex states)
Good luck
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
Turning these rotors seldom works - as you found out. I use O'Rielly's 'lifetime replacement' rotors on both of our PSD's. After 80k miles (mostly towing 5ver - alot of that in the Rockies and Cascades) I finally developed a slight vibration in the F350. So, next tire rotation I took them in and they handed me a brand new set - no questions asked. 
I'm sure the slotted/cryo/etc units are good, but simply not worth the money to me. My wife commutes 'over the mountian' to school about 500 miles per week. She only got 20k miles out of her last set of brake pads - but the rotors are still smooth as glass!
Equally important is regular caliper slide maintenance. I remove, clean and lube them about every other tire rotation. Even the slightest drag here = ALOT of heat... Regularly changing the brake fluid is also a really good idea!
I'm sure the slotted/cryo/etc units are good, but simply not worth the money to me. My wife commutes 'over the mountian' to school about 500 miles per week. She only got 20k miles out of her last set of brake pads - but the rotors are still smooth as glass!
Equally important is regular caliper slide maintenance. I remove, clean and lube them about every other tire rotation. Even the slightest drag here = ALOT of heat... Regularly changing the brake fluid is also a really good idea!
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Bleed Ford Blue
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 13,578
Likes: 157
From: Anchorage Alaska
well, i guess i have some saving to do. the way i look at it though is do it right the first time and not have to do it again. thanks guys! i'll update once i get them. right now its very faint/intermittin so i'll wait alittle while.
Sit. Stay.
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 18,308
Likes: 20
From: Washington State
Are the pads the stock pads you think?
The problem is more pad composition than rotor composition.
While ARTs are good (I had a full set on my 2000). Stewart's advice for cyro rotors and Hawk pads is a good one but if you can only do one, do the Hawk pads. And do a proper break in.
If you brake hard and leave your foot on the brake when you stop then you are contributing to the "warping" problem. The hot pad against the hot rotor causes inconsistent material transfer to the rotor giving you a warped sensation.
The problem is more pad composition than rotor composition.
While ARTs are good (I had a full set on my 2000). Stewart's advice for cyro rotors and Hawk pads is a good one but if you can only do one, do the Hawk pads. And do a proper break in.
If you brake hard and leave your foot on the brake when you stop then you are contributing to the "warping" problem. The hot pad against the hot rotor causes inconsistent material transfer to the rotor giving you a warped sensation.
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Bleed Ford Blue
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 13,578
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From: Anchorage Alaska
no i highly doubt they are stock pads, they have about 70% left on all 4 wheels/tires and i'm at 85k miles.
yes i do drive pretty hard. i take that back i drive hard haha and yes i brake hard. i've never had an issue with my driving style and warped rotors in my explorer. i ran through alot of pads on it but no rotors. would the extra weight of the excursion cause the differance? i would hope i could upgrade to some good stuff and continue my normal driving style? god i hope so or this is going to be expensive because i dont think my driving style is changing much haha.
also is there a way to not hold the brake when stopped at a light? idk aout you but my excursion likes to roll when in gear and on semi flat ground. plus we have alot of hills here so you kinda have to stay on it to not roll backwords or forwords however you may be positioned. i dont really see a way to aviod that and have never heard of that causing warping. but i'm not saying its not possible..as they say you learn somthing new every day!
yes i do drive pretty hard. i take that back i drive hard haha and yes i brake hard. i've never had an issue with my driving style and warped rotors in my explorer. i ran through alot of pads on it but no rotors. would the extra weight of the excursion cause the differance? i would hope i could upgrade to some good stuff and continue my normal driving style? god i hope so or this is going to be expensive because i dont think my driving style is changing much haha.
also is there a way to not hold the brake when stopped at a light? idk aout you but my excursion likes to roll when in gear and on semi flat ground. plus we have alot of hills here so you kinda have to stay on it to not roll backwords or forwords however you may be positioned. i dont really see a way to aviod that and have never heard of that causing warping. but i'm not saying its not possible..as they say you learn somthing new every day!
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
I'll add that I have Performance Friction 'carbon metallic' pads of F350. They have like 50k on them and lots of meat left - again, lots of towing. These pads do not have the stopping power I'd like, but the rotors don't seem to mind and the dust is almost non-existent.
After wifey chewed thru whatever pads were on the Ex when we got it, I had to throw a set of cheapo's from autozone on it - 'cause I was leaving town and that was only set in town on Sunday... Anyway, they stop GOOD, much less pedal pressure required to slow the fat pig down (the truck, not the wife
), but the dust is ridiculous. I expect SHORT pad life, but they had a lifetime warranty??? 
I'd like to use either Hawk pads or EBC's, but its hard for me to change something thats working fine!
After wifey chewed thru whatever pads were on the Ex when we got it, I had to throw a set of cheapo's from autozone on it - 'cause I was leaving town and that was only set in town on Sunday... Anyway, they stop GOOD, much less pedal pressure required to slow the fat pig down (the truck, not the wife
), but the dust is ridiculous. I expect SHORT pad life, but they had a lifetime warranty??? I'd like to use either Hawk pads or EBC's, but its hard for me to change something thats working fine!
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