What is it with these trucks (or maybe just something with mine) that causes the rotors to warp so often? The past few years ive been going thru rotors way too often. At first i was getting them turned and would notice that they would start to warp within weeks. After a few times of that i purchased a replacement set of stock replacement rotors. They lasted about 2 mths before i noticed they were starting to warp. In all cases i would continue to drive it until i could no longer take it and had to address the issue. So from turning the rotors to purchasing new stock rotors i went from 2 wks to about 2 mths before noticing the warping, would usually change out about 6 mths or so. Each time i would grease the slide pins on the calipers to make sure they werent sticking. Also, i do tow loads, but 90% of my driving is highway and i havent towed heavy (consistently) in a few years.

So just after Christmas last year i purchased a set of the powerslot cryo rotors everyone has been recommending with the hawk pads. Changed them out shortly after new years. Things were going great. 2wks passed and no warping, 2 mths passed and no warping. This is the fix. YAY! Then i hit the 6 mth mark and noticed a slight hint at warped rotors. Since then it is getting progressively worse and is now almost to the point that i have got to do something to address them again. As much as i hate to, can the cryo rotors be turned and still keep their performance characteristics? Or will turning them just make them more or less a stock rotor again? Im getting really tired of warping rotors on this truck, but all things considered i havent had any other issues after 237k miles, so some brakes every now and then aint that bad. But does anyone have any other suggestions?

 

At first i thought maybe inferior quality rotors. how were your calipers? Did your burnish your pads as soon as you changed them? Not sure about turning the Powerslots. One tip an experienced brake guy told me was when you have done some hard braking, and when come to a stop, leave some room so you can inch ahead every few seconds so as not to keep the pads stuck on one spot of your rotors and the cool some what evenly.

 

I've got over 250K on my front rotors and have never experienced warping. I weigh 13,500 pounds too and live in mountainous country. I go up and down the grapevine on a weekly basis.
Are you sure you are diagnosing things correctly? May be tire cupping causing wobble when loaded as in stopping. Why don't you rotate your tires and see if that doesn't cure it.

 

Any rotor can be turned with the proper machine, including the cryo treated Powerslot rotors.

Stewart

 

There are MANY reasons for a warped rotor and it is not specific to these trucks. Check your slide pins, as those did like to stick. Ford released an improved design, so pick up a set of those.

Also, the most common culprit is improper tightening of lugnuts. Non-star pattern and over tightening (such as with an air impact) will cause warping too.

 

Another thing to look for is the mating surface that meets the rotor needs to be clean and rust free. Make sure there are no imperfections between the mating surfaces because if a rotor gets put on an uneven surface, it will warp in no time flat. No matter how perfect it was before installation.

 

I threw in the towel the first time and replaced everything with the word "brake" in it. I did my homework on pads and I learned that ceramic, while the latest technology, has the dynamic of transferring the heat away from itself and to the rotors. No one thing on the brake system should shed all heat, everything needs to "share the load" or you have one component that takes the brunt of the wear. I went with old-fashioned semi-metallic pads that came with my shiny new calipers and I just inspected the brakes 2 days ago (20,000 miles on them). All is well.

 

On my '05 Excursion I used the ceramic pads for a short (80 mile) time. They smoked all 4 of my OEM rotors! We lived in a hilly area, but never had a warpage problem like that! Had to park it and take the backup vehicle to the parts store to replace them all! No more ceramic's for me!

CHeck for brake line restriction, pinched steel lines or possibly degraded flex lines. When yuo bleed the calipers, do all seem to have the same flow from the bleeder screw?

DW

 

I would bet money saying its not your rotors that are the problem, think about it you make it XXX amount of time and there fine.... So when you get them theres nothing wrong....

If you have them.... CERAMIC PADS ARE YOUR PROBLEM.... These big heavy trucks DO NOT like them. I had a set on my truck when I bought it. I got to the point that I was thinking about getting rid of it, then a brother here told me to ditch them, I did and a year later still no problems. They were causing warped rotors and were some how making my calipers over heat and locking up at all four corners over time. I replaced all 4 rotors 3x, calipers 2x but always stuck with the ceramic pads.
If you are having this many problems it might not be a bad idea to replace the rubber brake lines too, even if they "look" to be in good shape. The rubber can wear out on the inside and can make it line act as a check valve
Good luck

 

Its got me stumped. I drive on flat ground, dont brake excessively hard, and dont tow all that often anymore. I have replaced the pads each time i changed the rotors cuz they were "glassed" over each time. I have replaced the calipers, but it was the stock on the shelf brand at oreillys. I always regrease the slide pins each time. I always retorque the wheels in a star pattern, no impact, all by hand. I was actually thinking about the lines, thats the only thing i havent done is change the brake lines, sounds like thats my next option, along with some brand name calipers maybe.

PS. I just checked my order when got the rotors and pads, it was in fact the hawk ceramic pads that i ordered. That could be the culprit. Ill try the other ones this time. I dont recall seeing them when i ordered, but looking now i see where Hawk has a SuperDuty brake pad. To quote the ad: "Hawk HP Superduty Brake Pads employ a unique ferro-carbon composite pad material that reduces heat, fights brake fade and is easy on your rotors" Is this the pads i should have ordered? What about the slots? If i have them turned, will this adversely affect the performance of the slots in the rotors?

 

Well don't feel left out I just put on a brand new set power stop drilled/spotted rotors with the pads they came with and I'm not even 1000 miles on them and I'm already warped and I turned the oem rotors not even a year ago still had 80% of the select plus pads left no loads . Greased slides and all.

What is this upgrade there talking about from ford. Somebody post a link and info.prices.

The vibrations are getting really bad again. Do know the front drivers side bearing is staring to go. Its next on the to do list.

Chime in guys

 

The most commonly recommended Hawk pad here is the LTS pad.

Hawk Performance Brake Pads: Light Truck / SUV

Riffraff Diesel: Hawk LTS Pads - Front

I had serious brake shimmy problems with my Ex. Powerslot cryo treated rotors and Hawk LTS pads solved my problem. 5 years and almost 75k miles later, two sets of pads and rotors turned twice and I'm still going strong.

Stewart

 

I have all OEM parts from orilleys, calipers, rotors slide pins and rubber lines. The only thing I upgraded were the pads I went with EBC green stuff and haven't had a problem since. If anyone should have a brake problem it should be me running on stock everything for brakes trying to stop with 38x15.5 tires, I don't pull often but when I do I never have a proem

 

My rotors warp when I do not use a torque wrench.

When I started using a torque wrench to set the lugs, my rotors stopped warping.

I set my torque wrench near 150 ft-lbs (that is its max).

 

I bought a special torque wrench to do my wheels because most only go to 150ftlbs.

My lug nuts require more torque than a civic makes.