I doubt if that was 4 hours on the first one.

 

Has anyone priced what a new ERG cost to replace? or is a delete or upgrade much better. I have 2004 with 105,000 miles and I am showing some pucking now much more when I pull my 5er. I did unplug the ERG valve yesterday. I am takeing a 400 mile trip to a fire school in 2 weeks and just getting concern in the Texas heat what will happen ecpecally while pulling of do I just keep a close eye on the coolent.Thanks for any advise.

 

Don't run the engine very long with the egr valve just unplugged! You could cause the cooler to get extremely hot and then you'll have big problems. The delete is the way to go... do that and you'll think you bought a new truck.

 

Hmmmmmmmmm.............

 

You don't think he could do it in four hours? LOL... Hey joe did you ever get your tuner from innovative?

 

I checked with Bean and he said that he could do an EGR delete in 3.5 hrs. Now granted he has more tools then the average person would have and the experience to "know" the quickest way, but that's what he said. That was with one person.

You also have to remember that there are quite a few mechanics that can get a headstud job done in 10-12 hrs and that is far more involved process then the EGR delete and that's what some of y'all are claiming for an EGR delete.

I'm not saying that everyone can accomplish EGR or headstud "jobs" within those times, but giving right knowledge and tools "you" can get it done within those times.

 

Hi shawn 56.0......not yet buddy. I am saving for my Regulated Return from ITP. I think I can get it next month. After that I am looking into a few more gauges (fuel and oil temp)...then I think I can buy it.

tex...it's possible. I know what your saying in regards to experience with the engine. When I was working for a fleet It got to the (repetitive) point that I was intake gaskets in less than 2 hours, exhaust manifolds in 15 minutes etc...I'm just ribbing the guy. I'm with cartamanea on this one....I clean, rewrap, re-loom etc etc. I am not punching a clock or setting landspeed records with my own stuff.....Why rush it...that is when stuf is missed or gets broken.

 

just curious, but what makes you think that it is not a head gasket issue since you have "tuned" it?

 

I'm a little confused by the above statement!

If the EGR valve is unplugged, then there is no exhaust gas flow through the EGR cooler. The cooler has no return loop when the EGR valve is closed. Therefore, with the EGR valve unplugged, the cooler will only have to disipate the heat at the EGR cooler Y pipe connection which it disipates during normal operation anyway. In effect the exhaust will pass by the EGR cooler inlet and the coolant will continue to cool the trapped exhaust gas in the cooler with the EGR valve unplugged. After thinking about EGR operation for a while, that is one reason why I did not do and EGR delete when I installed the studs. Unplugging the EGR valve does the same thing as an EGR delete kit, unless I missed something, plus you still have the EGR system in tact for emissions testing.

DSMMH

 

It is a long debated issue. Most folks say that an unplugged EGR valve will not reliably stay shut (unless it is welded shut).

 

Mark.......I'm sure that an open EGR valve is a probability if unplugged. However, I tried to open mine when I had it out for cleaning and it would not budge. I know it did not open for 30,000 miles unplugged because there were no flow marks or crud on either valve or the stem and there was no crud in the intake.

I agree the only sure way is to weld it but my experience has been that is not necessary. FWIW.

For those who have deleted their EGR cooler and valve, I would like to ask one of them to cut the EGR valve open, since it is no longer needed, to see if the design of the open/close mechanism will allow the EGR to open unplugged. If they want to they can send me the valve and I'll do the analysis. That should put that issue to bed for good.

DSMMH

 

I'm with you on that one, particularly since he said that there was evidence of puking around the bottle, which typically EGR Cooler issues don't have. They usually leak elsewhere(into the oil etc).

I think alot of people go with the EGR Cooler issue first because it's easier(relatively speaking of course) to take care of financially or physically then headstuds(I'm sure fear factor plays into it as well). I'm sure there are other reasons then that, I'm pretty sure Ford looks at the Cooler first because it's cheaper for them to do that under warranty then a headbolt job(some will do studs, some won't that's way I just said headbolt).

I would look at the heads first and then Cooler. Cooler will eventually have to go anyway especially if he plans on keeping what he has as a "tuner".

 

It is my understanding that the EGR valve powers open and the spring returns it closed, so unplugging won't leave fear of it opening unless its gummed up. However, if you unplug it you'll go into EPA mode which will prevent your turbo from going through its full range of motion.

 

I'm pretty sure that depends on what flash you have as I believe it's the most recent flash that "tells" the computer if it has a low or high EGR flow it goes to limp mode.

 

Correct, the newer flashes will put it in EPA mode if the flow is blocked off, even if the valve is still plugged in. EPA...