Reuse U-Joint retainers?
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From: Pennsylvania Wilds
Reuse U-Joint retainers?
Have a new U-joint that came with my truck when I got it, and the back one has a lot of slop, so I figure that's why. I've been greasing the Hell out of it, and that keeps the clunking and squealing away, but I've got a couple hundred mile trip coming up, so it seems like a good time to put the new joint in, especially since this particular trip has in the past claimed two U-joints, one driveshaft(which took the exhaust pipes with it), and cracked a bell housing spread out over two vehicles... I've never changed one myself, but I figure it's gotta be a simpler task than many of the repairs I've recently tackled. The book outlines the procedure, but says most new trunnions come with new snap-rings, but the one I have did not, hence the question: are they reusable?
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From: Pennsylvania Wilds
Looks like the right joint, and it's still in the packaging.
I'm trying to figure out how a truck with 64k miles is ready for its third set of U-joints(the work one has a zerk, I don't think the factory ones did(?). The previous owner must not have been the preventative maintenance type, from other things I've noted, but still. Guess the 35" tires must have been a lot of extra stress on the driveline.
I'm trying to figure out how a truck with 64k miles is ready for its third set of U-joints(the work one has a zerk, I don't think the factory ones did(?). The previous owner must not have been the preventative maintenance type, from other things I've noted, but still. Guess the 35" tires must have been a lot of extra stress on the driveline.
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From: Pennsylvania Wilds
Found them. They fell out of the package in the glovebox, and got mixed up with the assorted mass of Copenhagen coupons and convenience store receipts I also inherited with the truck.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Toasty FLORIDA
The Job is simple all you need is a fresh can of penetrative additive a hammer and spike so you can beat the u-joint out, about 45 min took me to do the entire rear shaft, including a beer break or two.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Coal Region
couple of tips, after getting the joint out sand the inside with some emory cloth or fine grit paper and use anti-sieze to aid in installation and later removel if needed.
also, i would not use a spike. i have one old socket that is barely bigger then the cap and one socket that is just slightly smaller than the cap with an extension i use to pound the joint out. a shop vice is also handy and will work better. best way is to use a ball joint press and the easiest is to use a red wrench and cut the joint in an X in the body. also, u may have to re-bend the ears a little i severe persuasion is needed in removal.
as to the oringal question, yes i have re-use the retainers for the outside over. as long as they lock into the groove its ok. would i recommened it? not if new ones are available. as for the other style which goes in the inside and looks like a C, no i wouldnt re-use them as most are damage in extraction. have i in the past? u bet. anything to get back on the road again :-)
also, i would not use a spike. i have one old socket that is barely bigger then the cap and one socket that is just slightly smaller than the cap with an extension i use to pound the joint out. a shop vice is also handy and will work better. best way is to use a ball joint press and the easiest is to use a red wrench and cut the joint in an X in the body. also, u may have to re-bend the ears a little i severe persuasion is needed in removal.
as to the oringal question, yes i have re-use the retainers for the outside over. as long as they lock into the groove its ok. would i recommened it? not if new ones are available. as for the other style which goes in the inside and looks like a C, no i wouldnt re-use them as most are damage in extraction. have i in the past? u bet. anything to get back on the road again :-)
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2005
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If the u joint is really tight, you can damage or break something by beating it out. Advance and Auto Zone have a tool loan program. You can get a ball joint/ujoint press from them. It works really well. Makes the job very easy. I also used an impact wrench to run the press, but a big breaker will work too. A little duct tape will keep the caps on until you install it in the truck. Putting all those bearings back after the cap falls off is not fun.
Good Luck
Frank
Good Luck
Frank
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 26,898
Likes: 3
From: southern md
If the u joint is really tight, you can damage or break something by beating it out. Advance and Auto Zone have a tool loan program. You can get a ball joint/ujoint press from them. It works really well. Makes the job very easy. I also used an impact wrench to run the press, but a big breaker will work too. A little duct tape will keep the caps on until you install it in the truck. Putting all those bearings back after the cap falls off is not fun.
Good Luck
Frank
Good Luck
Frank
and on a second note -if the caps seem to not quite go into place and your sure it's the right joint-sometimes one little needle bearing will get out of place and lay on top of the center part of the joint-just enough to keep the cap from going into place-not a bad job if luck is on your side-good luck-once ya do it once-you will have it down pat!
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Arcadia, Fla
What I do to keep those needle bearings in place is fill the cap up with good grease before you put the cap into the yoke. When you put the cross in the grease will spred out but those needles should stay put. Its a real pain to find one stuck like Jr32560 said!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: southern md
they never seem to put the grease fittings in a place ya can get to it to grease em 
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 26,898
Likes: 3
From: southern md
honestly they aren't that hard to replace-only a shade tree mechanic myself and I've been doing since I was 16 years old-and your getting top quality tips by checking on this site-i had no clue how to replace em back in 1976-but i got em in and they stayed-so I learned the hard way good luck and post back if ya run into any problems
good luck and post back if ya run into any problems
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From: Pennsylvania Wilds
a lot of times it's almost impossible to grease them when installed -he is what i do-after ya get em in the front yoke-and all is left loose are the 2 caps on the rear-grease the front one till ya see the little rubber cap seals swell slightly-then use a bench vise or a big c clamp on the 2 loose caps-to hold em in place and grease the rear one let it sit a few minutes-so the pressure won't push the caps off-then install the driveshaft-most times once the driveshaft is installed they are a bear to grease-I will pull it loose and grease em once in a while-if i remember it when I'm under the truck and doing other things-usually never they never seem to put the grease fittings in a place ya can get to it to grease em
they never seem to put the grease fittings in a place ya can get to it to grease em 
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