I'm thinking about getting a 06 F350 with the 6.0 I have read/heard nothing good about it. Is this engine really that bad?

 

I've got 45,000 on mine. It had a very small oil leak when I bought it brand new and had a check engine light a couple of times for something minor but all in all so far so good. Mine is an 06. From what I've learned regular maint. is EVERYTHING!!!!!!! Change your oil often, go with severe service intervals, and that goes for ALL filters, oil and fuel. Use ONLY OEM filters! Change all fluids on a severe service interval!!!! And last but not least....... DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!

 

I've had my 07 since new and the only problem I have had is rust.

 

i have an 05 that has been very good to me it now has 100k on it bought it new in 05 and it has had a few small problems. but if it were in my driveway now id be willing go coast to coast at the drop of a hat. My dad stole it to tow his boat 400 miles to vt. i drive a 06 450 tow truck with 185k on it and it also has had it few lil bs problems but runs as good now as when it was new. i also have a friend with a 04 around 75k on it an 05 with 90k 2 06s one with 75k and the other with 35k and one 07 with 25 k on the clock besides the 04 they all get run hard daily and for the most part are bullet proof.
the bigest thing take of it drive it hard and it will be good 2 you

 

115,000 miles 1 injector under warranty at 92,000

 

See signature line below;

 

I have an '05 with 88,000 miles on it. I bought it new in May '05. The only problem I had was a dirty EGR valve that I pulled and cleaned myself and a small oil leak due to an o-ring on a sensor. Very minor issues. I do extended oil drain intervals (which many on this site would advise against) and everything else on the maintenance schedule provided by Ford. I would buy one again without question.

 

i have a stock 07 with 49,000miles and havent had any issues

 

2003 crewcab 4x4
102,000 mi
2 reflashes of the PCM
and 1 Y pipe
all under warantee

 

04, 60k on it, 2 turbos, 2 new sets head gaskets, just done 3k ago, blown again, has head studs 3k ago, EGR 3 times, bed plate leak, motor leak, 1 transmission...

Looks great...... has $30k in aftermarket crap. Worst truck I've ever owned. Sell it to ya. Only needs to go back to ATS Diesel to have the 8k spent on the motor re accomplished.

Best advise....read all these threads. wish I knew about this site before I bought this POS. I would avoid the 6.0 for sure. Only people on here who own one are the peolpe who didn't know about what a POS the 6.0 is before they owned it.

 

Heavy mods ($30k in aftermarket crap) is a recipe for disaster unless the RIGHT mods are installed by a VERY experienced shop.

Lots and lots of satisfied 6.0L owners (I am one). I will admit that there are many unsatisfied ones too, but the 6.0L can be made practically bullet proof. It just has to be done right.

If you buy used, you either need to know the history of the truck OR get a VERY good price and be prepared to spend some money on either repairs OR mods!

 

Here is my procedure to buy a used 6.0L:

I would recommend trying for a 2006 or 2007 year model. I think that buying a used 6.0L may be one of the best deals going right now. A lot of people have heard the horror stories and have traded them in. If you find a good price (which I have seen quite a few good deals) AND you have checked into the reputation of a local dealership on repairing the 6.0L - then GO FOR IT! So much depends on having a dealership that has competent techs to troubleshoot and work on any future problems.

If you are looking at used 6.0's here are a few considerations (along w/ the OASIS and CARFAX reports that are essential).

Some 6.0L weak points (things to check):

Look for signs of coolant degas bottle overflow (dry white residue on and around the degas bottle or no level in degas bottle).

Lots of idling can cause EGR problems. I look at the hours on the engine (if it has this monitored) and divide the miles by the hours (is it below 30? If so, may have had lots of idling).

Even without much extended idling EGR valves can plug quickly - maybe negotiate for a new EGR valve. In fact, I would negotiate for them to pull the EGR valve to inspect it (have them show it to you when it is out and then you need to look into the intake). Check for wetness (w/ rear end jacked up) and for excess soot. Wetness indicates an EGR cooler leak. If the valve is gunked up, have them replace the valve. If the intake is real bad, you may push them to clean it as well.

Look underneath for oil leaks - some trucks have had a lot of them.

If you buy from a dealership, I would negotiate for them to install the latest flash of all 3 processors (PCM, FICM, ECM).

Negotiating for an extended warranty is always a good thing as well.

Try to find out about the routine maintenance:
· Filter change intervals on time? What kind of oil (CI 4 + or CJ 4 - one of these is required)?
· OEM filters? Look at them and see what kind they are. Aftermarket filters can cause MAJOR problems.
· Find proof of Transmission being flushed/changed - it is recommended every 30,000 miles.
· Any exhaust problems visible (i.e. lots of white or blue smoke)? White smoke may mean an EGR cooler leak.

Check for any FLUID leaks (as stated previously - LOOK SPECIFICALLY FOR OIL LEAKS - 6.0L are prone to many of these from many possible places!!).

CEL (Check Engine Light) on? Consider getting a code reader and check for DTC's. You can have active DTC’s without a CEL.

The Electronic Shift on the Fly ESOF sometimes fails due to vacuum leaks. Be sure to check this out (several times in and out of 4WD and/or take front wheels off to inspect).

Check for excessive wheel bearing wear (looseness), sway bar (end link looseness), or ball joint looseness. Ball joints and sway bar end links tend to go out in the 70k-90k range. Jack one side up at a time and see if each wheel moves top to bottom only, if so, it is the ball joints. If it moves in all directions then probably wheel bearings.

Check the coolant - it should have the Motorcraft Gold Coolant - anything else and there may be problems. Look in the "degas" bottle and inspect the fluid - it should be gold colored and there should be NO OIL visible (oil emulsified in water can show up as brown sludge). As previously stated, the degas bottle should not have white residue around the sides of it (possible overheating issues).

Any evidence of a tuner ( aftermarket air filter, gauges, etc)? Tuners may or may not be bad. Some tuners are MURDER on the transmission. Some dealerships will cause you a lot of problems w/ them - even if you bought it that way used.

Aftermarket air systems could be a problem. Many of them (like K&N) do not filter as well and could cause issues. Up to 500 hp, the stock air system is best!

Try to find out if the original owner ever ran it empty on fuel or have plugged filters (fuel pressure below 45 psig can damage injectors)?

Then the common stuff I'm sure you know:
· Look at and smell the fluids. Make sure fluids not burnt, not too thick or dirty.
· Check the tires - abnormal wear?
· How do the brakes look? Any pads need replacement? Are the rear brakes excessively worn?
· All electronics working? Especially the AC (repair can be expensive)?
· Dents? Air bag been replaced, etc.
· See if he has any repair or maintenance records.
· Take off the price for windshield dings, paint chipped, torn upholstery, etc.
· Does the truck look too clean? Does it look like the oil was just changed? May be hiding something.
· Any extras - tool boxes, bumpers, etc.?
· Drive it - does it hesitate, stutter, or surge? Does it blow white or black smoke? When driving, brake fairly hard - note any pulls, pops, clunks, rattles, etc. How does it accelerate? You should romp on it pretty good. Drive in reverse and then back and forth - listen for clunks.

Add or subtract value based on condition, high miles, and presence of extras.
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'06 57K miles, 3 injectors. Thats it. I deleted the EGR, cleaned the turbo vanes and installed ARP head studs at about 40K miles, wasnt needed, did it as a precautionary measure as I run a very aggressive tune, have a lead foot and enter in truck pulls and the occasional drag race at the track. From my research and input found here it seems the '06-'07 trucks seem to be the most problem free. If someone offered to trade me a brand new LMM duramax or Cummins right now and I wouldnt consider it, I love my 6.0

EDIT: Like bismic said, having a competent tech that is familiar with the 6.0 would be a HUGE factor to me. I work for GM and work on Duramax's daily, but am no pro with the 6.0, I do however have a good close personal friend who is THE ford diesel man, has been for many years, thats all he does, so if I get in a pickle, here there to help. If your local dealer only has what I call a "parts replacer" (I.E-throw parts at it, eventually one of them will have to fix it right?) Just something to think about.

 

I guess I am one of the very few that knew what I was running the risk of when I bought a POS 6.0L. Stupid me, what was I thinking Some of the reason I bought a 6.0L was to prove to all the people who call them a POS that if they are taken care of, they are great. So far at 53k miles, I am making a pretty good point!!!! I love my truck and wouldn't trade it for any Duramax or Cummins in the world. I would cheat on my 6.0L with a 6.4L though

 

Check out ATSDiesle.com. They are one of the most popular after market diesel companies around. If they can't get it to work.....its junk.


This truck has been twice since they redid the heads, gaskets, studs.....ect.


2004 Ford King Ranch 6.0 <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
NADA $23,850.00<o></o>
<o></o>
1. Road Amour Front Bumper: $2900.00
2. Road Amour Rear Bumper: $1800.00
3. Warn 16.5 Ton Titanium Winch: $2300.00
4. Warn 200,000 HID Spot Lights64560 : $1450.00
5. Warn 200,000 SDB Spot Lights 37609: $600.00
6. Pioneer AVIC –X910BT Stereo: $1200.00
7. Pro Comp MX6 Adjustable Shocks: $1800.00 ….6 X $300.00
8. Pro Comp Suspension 4’’ Lift: $1400.00
9. ATS E-Power Tuner: $550.00
10. ATS Aurora Turbo: $2700.00
11. Optima Yellow Top Batteries: $460.00…..2 X $230.00
12. Banks Monster Exhaust: $1175.00
13. Banks Intercooler: $1350.00
14. AFE Cold Air Intake: $300.00
15. Diamo Chrome Rims: $1100.00…….4 X $275.00
16. Mag-Hytec Diff Cover Front: $260.00
17. Mag-Hytec Diff Cover Rear: $240.00
18. Nitto Terra Grappler Tires: $1500.00
19. ATS Fire Rings: $1650.00
20. ATS Fire Ring Heads: $1750.00
21. Banks High Ram Air: $350.00
22. Mag-Hytec Transmission Pan: $350.00
23. Husky Floor Mats Front & Rear: $225.00
24. Brushwacker Fender Flares: $350.00
25. Bumper Coating: $450.00
26. Bed Liner: $600.00
27. Alpine 6 X 9 Speakers: $640.00……4 X $160.00
28. Alpine 10’’ Sub Woofer: $400.00
29. Kicker ZX-300: $440.00
30. APR Head Studs: $575.00
31. Reflection Hood Cowl Induction: 700.00
32. Putco Grill: $450.00
33. <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comffice:smarttags" /><st1:City><st1lace>Geneva</st1lace></st1:City> Tool Boxes: $500.00………2 X $250.00
34. Quarter/Tail Gate Panel Liner: $800.00
35. Add Leaf Springs: $500.00…….2 X $250
<o></o>
<o></o>
TOTAL $56,615.00

This doesn't count labor or paint work. Make ya a good deal or Trade for a Dodge....I have all records of work.
Craig