I do not think the lower intake manifold get to much over 240 degrees.
A pipe plug will work in the EGR hole in the lower intake manifold.

Note, the manifold EGR hole is in the:
Lower intake manifold for the 5.0 (302)
Exhaust manifold on the 5.8 (351) & 7.5 (460).
rear exhaust manifold for the 4.9 (300).

 

Cool. :)
No wonder I didn't know what he was talking about. :/
Forgot we were working on Fords there for a minute. ;)
Never worked on a 5.0/302 or 4.9/300 or 7.5/460. :/

I don't doubt for a second what SubFord said about the fittings.
But when you pull it, check the threads side but side with your new plug,
meshed together, look for light coming through between them, check out
the taper too. If they are the same size they will mesh near perfect.

Alvin in AZ

 

The first post was filled with computer jargon and lack of pictures. Here is an attempt to fix the words at least. NOTE RJM TECHNOLOGIES NO LONGER EXISTS




How-To Remove Your EGR Valve and associated plumbing.

So, after much research and searching for parts I finally removed the EGR valve completely from my personal 1993 F150 5.0 EFI.

The following is a detailed How-To for those of you who have been aimlessly searching like me.

All the parts are readily available from RJM Injection Technologies.

So are you ready to get started? Let's start collecting parts!

Here's what you will need:
The appropriate sized block off plate for your application.
Determine this by measuring from center of bolt hole, to center of bolt hole on the existing EGR valve or intake port.
For my '93 5.0 it was the 2-7/8" block off.
They include stainless bolts and a gasket with the block off plate.

Then you will need either the Original EGR Eliminator:
The original is made with original Ford parts that plug into your stock wiring harness EGR Position Sensor connector under the hood.

Or the EGR Eliminator 2:
Or the Eliminator 2 comes with terminals ready to be inserted into the harness near the computer. Can be hidden near the computer, for a cleaner look!

And last but not least, a lower intake plug/cap.

You can either buy the one they sell, or if you’re in a hurry or mis-ordered like I did, make your own. To make your own you will have to have the main fitting out that is screwed into the head, out.

(Excuse the cell phone photo.)
photo not found...

On the left is a small piece of sheet metal I cut out. And on the right, the plug.You could use a piece of a pop can if you’d like. You will also need some J-B Weld or similar product.



Cut the piece of sheet metal to fit snugly inside the plug so it sits on the ridge that is halfway through it. Just make sure it completely covers the hole.
Then simply mix up some J-B Weld and fill the large end of the fitting with it to the top.It should look something like this when you are done.

Let it dry, trim off any excess, and you’re good to go! There’s your low cost intake plug.
This should complete the parts list.

Removal and Installation:

Eliminator Installation:
First things first, using a small screwdriver or pick, gently pry the EGR Valve Position sensor plug arms up while wiggling the connector loose.
Make sure the connector is free of corrosion and still has dielectric grease on the terminals.

Plug the eliminator into the EGR Valve Position sensor connector.
Zip tie the eliminator to the engine to protect it from vibration.
If you opted for the EGR Eliminator 2, follow the enclosed instructions.<o>

Removal of Vacuum Line:
All you have to do is pull the vacuum line off and trace it back to the source and plug it.

EGR Valve Removal:
Last, and hardest is the EGR removal itself.
Remove the bolt and stud that hold the EGR Valve to the upper intake.
Then unscrew the EGR pipe from the EGR itself.
Set the EGR valve aside.

And now the hardest part.

I highly suggest removing the upper intake and replacing the intake gasket while you do this step.It’s virtually impossible to do with the upper intake on.
You can get busy with a 1” wrench under the intake if you want but it’s much easier to do with the intake off.

If you have the intake off then just unscrew the EGR pipe from the head and then take a 1” socket and pull the remaining fitting out.
Then you can either make that fitting into a plug, like I did. Or install an actual plug.

That should be it, if anyone has any questions or additions feel free to send me a personal PM.

Good luck!





To be honest, I would like to have some detailed pictures of how to fix this problem. I eliminated the EGR tube on my truck but didn't cap it off. Hence, I have a lot of Air escaping somewhere behind my engine. I installed the Plug (found on ebay) into the EGR plug up near intake. (from what I understand its just resistors). I have not installed the big Plug yet on the side of the intake where the hot gas used to go.

 

At one time we were trying figure out the resisters and the image below is what we came up with.


OR



OR



/

 

From another member that took it apart:

Quote:
The resistor that goes across the EVR connector is 75 ohms plus or minus 5%. The wattage is probably 10 watt minimum. Its a wire wound reisitor and is big around as a pencil. It may even be 15 or 20 watt resistor as wire wound resistors are higher wattage in a smaller size.

The three pin plug that goes on the EVP harness is siliconed up and I can't see what is in there across the pins. I'm not having any luck with my ohm meter across these pins so you will have to give me more time or wait until you get one.

OK, I couldn't stand it... I took the plug out of the EVP three pin "fooler" and there are two small resistors in there with a third component that is covered so you can't see what it is. For all I know it may be a bare shorting wire covered up. Sorry, I can't be of more help....

The kit comes with a resistor and votage divider connector
The reading across the connector are as follows;
352-359: 371.1 ohms
352-351: 2.04k ohms

The stock plunger
(extended)
352-359: 37.4 ohms
352-351: 3.47k ohms

(compressed)
352-359: 3.44k ohms
352-351: 290 ohms

 

Well, lets just say I'm the type of guy that will make a how to video once I have reliable information on how to remove it completely without throwing codes. THEN, I will also show how to remove the smog pump/air pump system. These 90's pseudo emissions controls do absolutely nothing for the environment.

PS, Join SEMA before the EPA kills hotrodding.

 

Question: Does anyone know how to hack/flash the ECU to ignore the EGR all together?

 

Tweecer or quarter horse are a couple options.

The resistor trick, Usually works. Sometimes it doesn't.

I don't like tricking the computer, Id rather the ECM know it's missing and adjust accordingly vs functioning believing it works. Personal preference, I've done it both ways. Going inside the computer and turning off the emissions junk, is ideal but other than making the check engine light go off, I'm not sure it really matters.
​​​
If the check engine light really bothers you, you can wire a simple on/off switch, so that it's on when you want codes to flash out, and off when you don't need it.

​​​​​​Instead of using an egr block off plate, I picked up a tiny 25 cent "freeze plug", tapped it into the opening.

 

Will this cap the EGR tube connection on a 5.8 exhaust manifold or does it need to match the 37* flare fitting?