yep the frame will be completely bare. My powder guy knows me well by now lol

 

[QUOTE=1977f150xlt;8272135]

others may disagree, but that is what i have found from other people, including my local auto paint/body supplier, who actually steered me away from it!

Look at your source...a glorified salesman that probably never has used the product. Many paint/body supply store salesmen have no clue about real life appication of the products they sell. They know which product they sell mixes\matches with another, that's it. No REAL world experience there. A REAL mechanic would not lower himself to be a counter salesman. PLEASE read humer in this post! I agree with your post's, I just wanted to jab at the salesman telling real folks in the know, we end users, which products to use. Sorta like the Autozone salesman telling us their "word" brand dizzy cap is better than Borg Warner, that BG is a waste of money, etc. I think the Rust Bullet\POR-15 salesman would say your salesman is mistaken..
Bottom line, as you stated, the rust must be removed! Coat\seal it with a high quality product of your choice.

Did I say please read humer in this post?

 

I only wish I took my front and rear differential housings in with the frame.groan

 

That is what I cant decide. what I am going to do with the axles as I dont want to disassemble those too

 

I used the Chassis saver paint on mine, made by the Magnet paint company,
it's the stuff Stacey David on Gears used on Ted Nugents Bronco,
It say's that sandblasting before coating is the best prep, and they claim once it's applied it will "Never rust again" I will get back to you in eight or ten years and let you know,
I did like it, it was thin enough to put it the old suction feed sprayer and spray away,




I used the gloss black, they say the UV rays will fade it over time to a charcoal grey, my frame should be fine, got mine on ebay

 

im using rhino liner

 

My experience is that if you try and sandblast them you will get sand in places that you don't want it and you'll end up disassembling them to remove the sand. I know this from personal experience.

I mentioned in an earlier post to this thread that next time I'm going with a high quality epoxy paint. Well, next time I'm not going to sandblast the axles.

My plan, as of now, is to use some cheap oven cleaner and follow that with the pressure washer. That will hopefully get rid of the grease and any loose "crud". Then I'll get several cupped wire brushes to put on my angle grinder and use that to remove the rust, paint, etc. Depending on how it looks at that point, I may follow that with a scotchbrite wheel prior to priming and painting.

 

that could possibly be my plan of action now too

 

I've got por15 for my frame and parts, and the guy thats saying it can't be put on bare metal is absolutley wrong. If you are putting it on bare metal you simply need to buy the metal prep solution por15 sells. I don't remeber what exactly it's called but go to por15's web site and do some research. Also, don't take a parts guys word on something like that, that's just foolish! Take the advice of guys that have experience with different products, not the ones selling them. I researched this to death before doing mine and I found a guy that painted his shovel heads with por15 and years later it was still there, with minor scratches. Bottom line, you get what you pay for.

 

Anybody tried the Rust Converter Aerosol by Klean-Strip?

 

The prep is called "Metal Ready". "Marine Clean" is the pre-cleaner, thats just a degreaser though. Use the prep on ALL surfaces, It's cheap and goes a long way. It will not hurt a thing and will kill the rust in a pinhole or crevass you may not see. I was being "nice" about the parts guy issue. Some are really knowledgeable, some just puppet the company line or repeat what their told. I know a few dozen or so of each.....