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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Front hub dilema

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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 08:08 PM
  #1  
leesflare's Avatar
leesflare
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Front hub dilema

I'm in the process of replacing the auto hubs for manual, in my '92 F150. The left hub was blown apart when I got the truck, and I figured that would prove to be the most arduous, but n-o-o-o-o..... It's the right side that's giving me fits

The retaining ring that has to be squeezed to remove the hub body is frozen in place, and one of the legs has actually broken off. Has anyone had a similar situation, and how did you overcome it? Does anyone think I would ruin the main hub if I heated the area where the retaining ring sits, to break the corrosion bond, then try to physically pull the ring out through the square hole from one side? I'm running out of ideas here....

Thanks...

Lee
 
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 09:22 PM
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I'm not getting what you are saying. Any pics?
 
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 10:25 PM
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i think what he is saying is the ring that goes around the hub that you hav to use needle nose to compress both sides is broke on one side. so he needs to know how to get the ring out so the hub will come out.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 02:19 AM
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Is it the bigger ring just inside the hub? I like to use two ice picks to get a hold of mine and get it out. Two small screw drivers would work also. Just get it to move inside and then get behind it to work it out.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 04:37 AM
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You gents are on the right page, it is indeed the big ring that has to be squeezed to remove the splined hub body. That ring is "frozen" in place so that it can't be squeezed/compressed to remove the hub body, and one of those fingers that you use the needle nosed pliers on, broke off during the first squeezing attempt.THAT'S the dilema!!

Lee
 
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 03:19 PM
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OK, the problem is solved. Had to destroy the hub and replace it with a used piece from the local boneyard. Here's some pic's of what the problem was;

There must have been water in the hub when the truck was parked in '05, 'cause everything "froze". First pic is of the retaining ring and the part of the hub I cut off.



Then, I had to drive out the auto hub. It looked like this.



This is a shot of the hub body, showing the rusty interior.



This turned out to be a blessing in disguise, because whomever did the last bearing repack, didn't know how to do it. The outer locknut was less than finger tight, the spacer ring wasn't on the peg of the inner locknut, and the outer wheel bearing was full of metal shards from being run without grease

Putting in the new manual hubs was a snap

Later...

Lee
 
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 05:58 PM
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please tell me that you either cleaned all that rust out or got a new hub asembly........
 
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 05:04 AM
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Well, Fish, once the hub body was cut, there was no alternative but to replace it. Left the rust removal to the salvage guys. Even gave them the spent wheel bearing

Later...

Lee
 
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 08:24 AM
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From: SWFL
Lee

How much did the manual locking hubs set you back. Did you price others such as Warn?

Regards

CS45
 
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 07:21 PM
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CS, I got the hubs from my local speed emporium for the princely sum of $79.00 for the pair. You can get them cheaper through Summit for, I think $62.00 plus shipping
 
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 10:06 PM
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i just upgraded my hubs on my flareside from the auto's to the manual... i got the warn premium locking hubs which was about $125 for the set....when i did mine though i had to get the "spindle conversion kit" which was essentially a different nut to hold everything in..... i believe that was an extra 30 bucks.....
 
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 11:49 AM
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From: vernon hills IL
btw new hub/rotor at napa 80ish
 
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