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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 10:56 AM
  #16  
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Started up the truck this morning, let warm up good. Tried putting in gear and holding brake pedal, truck has vibration/shake thing going. Unplugged ICP, re-started truck, absolutely no shake, smooth as can be. Re-plugged, shake came back. So... I guess I need to replace the ICP? Where can I get one of these, local parts store or should I order from somewhere else?? Thanks amthatiam and everyone!!!!
 
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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 08:46 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by MSB6
Started up the truck this morning, let warm up good. Tried putting in gear and holding brake pedal, truck has vibration/shake thing going. Unplugged ICP, re-started truck, absolutely no shake, smooth as can be. Re-plugged, shake came back. So... I guess I need to replace the ICP? Where can I get one of these, local parts store or should I order from somewhere else?? Thanks amthatiam and everyone!!!!
I got mine at NAPA, paid @ $128.00 IIRC. Glad that was the issue.
Dan
 
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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 10:04 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Visseroth
According to my DTC Library P1211 does not exist or is not documented.

I wonder if you have a slipping torque converter or one that is grabbing when it shouldn't. Can you scan your rig now and run a KOER test?
Originally Posted by Pocket
P1211 is ICP High/Low. It's extremely common to set this code with a chip, or in your case a reflashed PCM with an 80hp tune. It just means the HPOP isn't keeping up with the oil demanded to the injectors, so the ICP pressure is lower than what is being called for. Ignore it for now, that's not what's causing the shaking problem.

If it's only shaking while in gear or in reverse, and doesn't do it in neutral or park, then it's a torque converter or flywheel problem. A bad ICP sensor would also idle rough in park or neutral.
Originally Posted by Smokin'
x3. Having experienced a bad ICP sensor, the symptoms are much more violent than a slight shake at idle.
When the ICP went in my truck, it had a slight shake only in gear, felt like a miss when in neutral it was smooth, as soon as I replaced the ICP problem was gone. A torque converter is a fluid clutch, at idle not much is happening other than the fluid being agitated between the turbine and impeller creating heat, nothing to grab or cause a shake unless the bolts that connect the converter to the flex plate were loose, than I suspect his complaint would have been rather different.
Dan
 
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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 10:43 PM
  #19  
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Well I've been wrong before, so if he found the problem, then that's awesome.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2009 | 12:55 AM
  #20  
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Well I learned something new, Thanks for the update amthatiam and MSB6. I don't like auto trajics anyhow but now I know what to look for and maybe this a problem I might be seeing in my truck. When I'm idling around town at about 1000 rpm, 5th gear I can feel a slight jerking going on. Very mild jerk but none the less

Thanks for the update and thanks for the post. I just learned something new.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 05:26 PM
  #21  
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Well let me give you the latest.......... Took it to my buddy at the local dealer and he did a full scan. My #8 injector passed the buzz test but failed the contribution test. He is going to try to see if it is just o rings or the injector itself its bad. Oh yes and also while we were checking this out my torque converter starting making a horrible noise. He says they tend to go out anywhere between 100-130k depending how they have been treated as far as pulling. Mine has 131k and I have only put about 15k on it so I really dont know the history of the torque converter. What has been your past experiences with injector orings and torque converter replacement??????? Does my chip have anything to do with any of this? I doubt it huh?
 
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 06:14 PM
  #22  
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Wait wait wait wait!!!!

Before you even think about pulling the #8 injector, look to see if your truck is running a grey CPS, or if it has ever been in to the dealership for the CPS recall. If there is a grey CPS in there, then DO NOT pull out the #8 injector.

The grey CPS is known to cause false cylinder contribution faults with particularly #3 and #8 cylinders. If you can find a black CPS, throw it in, then re-run the contribution tests. I'll bet you anything it will pass with a black CPS in it.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 06:15 PM
  #23  
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I don't think so. I think this issue with number 8 is caused due to fuel starvation on number 8. It's common and a known problem. I am currently getting the same error on my truck.
Oh yea, and what ^ he said. I forgot about those stupid CPS's. I am going to put a black one in as soon as possible and keep the grey just to get me out of a pinch.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 07:33 PM
  #24  
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I had my cps replaced via recall from Ford some time last year. What about the filters inside the fuel tank. I hear some trucks have them and some dont???
 
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 08:05 PM
  #25  
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The only thing inside the tank is the pickup screen and mixing chamber. No filter in there.

Since you've had the CPS recall done, then that is the cause of the #8 contribution failure. Do not spend the money to have that injector pulled, because it won't make any difference. Too many Ford dealerships have chased phantom problems because of that grey CPS.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 11:12 PM
  #26  
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search ebay for a black CPS for your truck and keep the grey as a backup as the black has a higher failure rate but from the reports that I've read will actually make the truck run better.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 06:55 PM
  #27  
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Well now I guess I feel like a total jack***!! He pulled the #8 inj and said it failed the bench test, so it was replace and re-oringed. While driving home, the shudder and shake came back, not so bad in neutral or park and worse in gear with foot on brake. Went ahead and had the t/c replaced. Well now 1700.00 later all my problems are still there!!! Any how or where can you find a black cps now! I called International and he checked all the superceded p/n's but the one he has is gray? What about the screens in the fuel tank???
 
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 10:09 PM
  #28  
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If the CPS is bad, you can replace it with a $25 grey one. They aren't as reliable as the black CPS but they do work just fine, I've run one before.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 12:34 AM
  #29  
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From what I have read it is the black CPS that has a higher failure rate but is more accurate and the grey has a lower failure rate but is not as accurate and causes #3 and #8 contribution check failures.

This is the CPS that I bought and put in my truck and it works just fine. Ran to Seattle and back thus far with it and have my grey in the glove box.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-F...Q5fAccessories

I know it says 94-96 but it works
 
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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 04:55 PM
  #30  
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I just ordered on from ebay on Sat. I hope I have the same good luck with it that you do.
 
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